The 2007 Bordeaux vintage is interesting to me. Mainly, because I've been fortunate enough to taste a fair sampling of the wines. I went to the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux trade tasting in January and tasted wines from throughout Bordeaux, then got to follow that up with a Bordeaux tasting class at Atlanta Wine School that featured another sampling of 2007's. Furthermore, 2007 is a less than stellar vintage. With the wines initially priced high, and as inventories throughout the trade stagnate, there should be some nice bargains available over the next couple of years. For what it's worth, here are some notes on the wines that I tasted tonight.
~2007 Domaine de Chevalier Bordeaux Blanc, Grand Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Leognan- 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon. Nose of honeydew melon, cantaloupe, and river rock that grows more floral with time in the glass. Crisp citrus on the palate with mineral notes and light touches of heather honey. Finishes with lilac floral notes and lime---very good to excellent---$75-$100.
~2007 Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere Grand Cru Classé Saint-Emilion- 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Really detailed with secondary depth on both the nose and the palate, with the black fruit wound tightly within. Aromas of cedar, coffee, cracked pepper, and minerals. Flavors of fig, currant, slate, violet, leather, apple, and espresso. Cedary tannins with closing notes of tea and wood that further clip the fruit. With some age and the fruit opening up to intermingle with the host of other notes, this could really shine---Very Good to Excellent---$60 up to $130 online.
~2007 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan- 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. Woodsy notes of cedar, chocolate, cherry- inviting with forward notes lavender, raspberry, mineral, and tea. Lush feel with herb-laced tannins. Good now.---Very Good---$20-$30.
~2007 Chateau Beaumont, Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois- 52% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc. Piney aromas of eucalyptus and pipe tobacco- with espresso, sour cherry, tea, and bitter chocolate. Finishes with silky tannins---fair to good---$15-$20.
~2007 Chateau du Tertre, Margaux, 5th Growth- 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot. Leathery, anise, floral notes, and raspberry- with raspberry tort, cherry, wet stone, and chocolate. Velvety with lush finishing notes---Very Good---$30-$40.
~2007 Chateau Lynch-Moussas, Pauillac, 5th Growth- 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. Musky nose with leather and hints of fruit, and slightly medicinal- with berries, currant, violet-ripe with light secondary notes. Lush tannins with spice and fruit. Good now.---Good to Very Good---$38.
~2007 Château Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Julien, 4th Growth- 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc. Dense in the glass. Nose of tea, river rock, raspberry jam, cedar, and coffee- with integrated raspberry and currant fruit, slate, clove, tea, espresso, mint. Racy tannins with a long finish. Beautiful stuff with a long life ahead---Excellent---$35-$50.
~2007 Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé- 90% Semillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Muscadelle. Shines in the glass. Profound floral notes, mineral, key lime, and tropical fruit on the nose. Viscous texture with notes of tangerine, banana, coconut, and apricot-seamless. Lively and slightly medicinal. Decadent and long. Amazing stuff---Classic---$40-$60.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Day 5- Sonoma County- Calluna Vineyards + Four More Stops
Alas, all good things must come to an end. Napa and Sonoma in April 2010 were marked by celebration and discovery. A celebration of the spiritual connection to the world of vino, being there among it and soaking it all in-both old and new-discovery. There was one more day to achieve these goals, primarily in untapped areas on this trip. Starting in Chalk Hill and then working my way through Sonoma Valley and into Carneros.
Calluna Vineyards
The day started at Calluna Vineyards in the Chalk Hill AVA. I learned of Calluna from reading a post on the CabFrancoFiles blog about Calluna and some of ideas about winemaking, myths of California wine, and Chalk Hill. Calluna is a fairly new vineyard and winery, the brainchild of proprietor and winemaker David Jeffrey. Jeffrey was a longtime New York area wine collector and enthusiast who decided to pack up and move west, diving head-first into a new vineyard and winery project. He studied Enology at Fresno State and then worked the 2003 harvest in Bordeaux with Alain Raynaud at Château Quinault in Saint-Émilion, all the while searching for a vineyard site in Sonoma County that would meet his goals of making world class wine that combines the power and balance of Bordeaux, with the bold and rich flavors of Sonoma.
That site was newly developed as Calluna Vineyards in the Chalk Hill appellation, an AVA that Jeffrey believes achieves the perfect climatic balance for Bordeaux varietals. It gets a cooling influence from the Russian River Valley to the west, but with plenty of warmth and a smaller diurnal temperature variation than most other areas of Napa and Sonoma. Jeffrey relates these climatic factors to the great sites in Bordeaux, with ideas that sometimes fly in the face of conventional wisdom regarding California viticulture. The hallmark of the Calluna Vineyard sites for Jeffrey, is the ability of his grapes to reach full phenolic ripeness without excess sugar development. This allows him to make wines that fully express the terroir of Chalk Hill, without the addition of water to the must or tartaric acid. He is also in the process of implementing a barrel fermentation method, unique for red wines, where the barrels are able to be rolled in place helping to submerge the cap of skins back into the wine without having to punched down.
Mr. Jeffrey gave me a detailed tour of his vineyards, explaining the different exposures and soil variations that worked best for each of the Bordeaux varietals that he grows. Aside from being a great vineyard site, the property has spectacular panoramic views of the Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, and the mountains of Napa Valley. Then it was on to taste the wines- current releases including the 2008 Calluna Vineyards Cuvée, the 2008 Merlot "Aux Raynauds", and the 2007 Windrift. The limited production Cabernet Sauvignon wines are sold out from the 2007 vintage, with the 2008's not yet ready for release. The wines are detailed below, but overall I can say that the proof is in the wine that this is an impressive undertaking. With the 2008 being only the second vintage, it amazes even further. What was available for tasting primarily was Merlot-based. It's pretty clear to me that this is a special site for Merlot. I look forward to trying the Cabernet-based wines in the future.
The Wines-
-2007 Windrift Red, Chalk Hill- This is Calluna's everyday wine. 39% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec. Aged 20 months in French oak. Expressive aromas of red and black currant, slight herbal, and peppery notes- with fresh herbs, baking spice, and full secondary fruit. Sweetly spiced tannins finishing with nice length---very good---$20.
-2008 Windrift Red, Chalk Hill- Starts with tea, leather, rubbed herbs, and secondary fruit on the nose. Red fruit, spice, and graphite notes lead into silky coffee flavored tannins. Darker and more dense than the 2007---very good---$?
-2008 Calluna Vineyards Cuvée, Chalk Hill- Aged in 40% new French oak. 44% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, and 1% Petite Verdot. Great color- a rich purple-garnet that shines in the glass. An expressive nose with smoky black cherry, floral-violets, blackberry, and secondary spice. Much the same vein on the palate with lush and silky tannins brushed with white pepper and secondary fruit on the finish---excellent---$30.
-2008 Merlot "Aux Raynauds", Chalk Hill-Aged in 50% new French oak. 96% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. A bright ruby/garnet. Aromas of coffee, cherry, red currant, and spices- fully expressive. A ton of depth on the palate with coffee, leather, mint, dark berries, and currant- full throughout, with gripping dusty tannins. Finishing long with berry and spice notes---excellent to stellar---$40.
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Arrowood Vineyards
Heading down into the Sonoma Valley, I stopped for a quick tasting in Glen Ellen at Arrowood. Arrowood is the namesake of famous Sonoma County winemaker Richard Arrowood, who still makes the wines there today. The winery is located along Highway 12, surrounded by a few parcels of their estate vineyards, and abutting the Mayacamus Mountain. The property is very much New England-style farmhouse in style, with a tasting room that overlooks Sonoma Valley. The staff was friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were uniformly good- a mix of Rhone, Burgundian, and Bordeaux varietals.
The Wines-
-2006 Réserve Spéciale Chardonnay, Sonoma County- Russian River Valley fruit from multiple vineyards. Unfined, 100% Barrel and Maloactic fermentation. Aged a total of 14 months in French oak. Nose of floral and mineral notes green apple fruit. Slight creamy notes, well balanced with crisp fruit and lively acidity---very good to excellent---$40.
-2007 Côte de Lune Blanc, Saralee's Vineyard, Russian River Valley- Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier with barrel aging and full malo. Floral aromas with peach and tropical fruit. Honey, mango, and peach flavors- nicely layered and with good acidity---very good---$25.
-2006 Estate Malbec, Sonoma Valley- Aged 27 months in French and American oak. Unfined and unfiltered. Coffee, tangy black cherry, and plum aromas with ample black cherry & plum flavors over a backdrop of secondary spice. Mellow tannins on the finish---good to very good---$40.
-2004 Réserve Spéciale Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County- From select mountain and benchland sites around Sonoma Valley- including Monte Rosso. Unfined and unfiltered with up to 30 months in French and American oak. Coffee, mocha, vanilla bean, with undercurrents of black fruit. Balanced on the palate with currant, spice, mocha, cocoa, and raspberry. Nice and supple with spicy tannins and a long finish---excellent---$110.
-2006 Côte de Lune Rouge- Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah. Unfined and unfiltered with 16 months in French oak. Smokey plum and cherry with spice box aromas. Coffee bean, plums, and chocolate with spicy tannins---very good---$30.
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Audelssa Vineyards
The next stop was an appointment at Audelssa Vineyards above the Sonoma Valley floor. It's located far up the western slope of Mt. Veeder. A visit up to Audelssa begins and ends with the incredible view. Standing in the vineyards, the southern view starts with the famous Monte Rosse vineyard just below, and extends all the way across the San Pablo Bay to the San Francisco skyline and the Golden Gate Bridge. The western view is of the entire Sonoma Valley floor. In an area not short of spectacular views, this really stood out.
We did a quick overview of the vineyard and history of the property. The Shaefer family developed the vineyards in the early 1990's, and their wine was originally made by Richard Arrowood at his winery on the valley floor below. Winemaker Erich Bradley, who worked at Arrowood, eventually started to work with the Shaefer's, developing a program completely customized to fully express the estate's Sonoma Valley/Mt. Veeder terroir. I tasted through their current releases at the tasting bar overlooking the vineyard.
Your humble author, guilty of wineteethThe Wines-
-2008 Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley- Rich gold color. Much fruit on the nose, with light creamy notes. Explodes with oak and malo notes on the palate- butter and creme fraiche with lighter pear notes. The acid holds up, but this definitely fits the bill for big buttery oaky CA Chardonnay---good to very good---$??
-2006 Alder Springs Merlot, Mendocino County- Aged 28 months in French oak. Violet, perfume, vanilla, and underlying fruit on the nose. Oak-driven spice flavors included vanilla, clove, and cigar box; with black cherry. Underpinned with more baking spice on a lengthy finish---very good---$60.
-2007 Summit, Sonoma Valley- 38% Cab Sauv, 35% Merlot, 12.5% Cab Franc, 10% Malbec, 4.5% Petite Verdot. Aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. Earthy aromas of black truffles mixed with black raspberry & cherry and other spices. Plummy, with black cherry and spice. Silky tannins are deceptively gripping with a nice finish---very good---$52.
-2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley- 28 months in French oak. Smoky notes of black currant, spice, cherry, and baked earth- with beautiful mixed berry flavors and supple spice-laden tannins, finishing with good length. Some bottle age should help the depth of the nose integrate into the flavors---excellent---$40.
-2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley- 28 months in French oak. Chocolate, cherry, red raspberry aromas with red currant, leather, tobacco, and mocha- silky with a light grip. Good finish---very good---$90.
-2007 Zephyr, Sonoma Valley- 37% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 29% Mourvedre, 1% Voignier. 18 months in neutral French oak. Vanilla & cloves, cherry, sarsaparilla that moves onto the palate with mellow red berries, mulled fruit, and firm tannins---very good to excellent---$48.
-2007 Tempest, Sonoma Valley- 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier- co-fermented. 18 months in 20% new French oak. Red cherry, raspberry, currant, and lavender- pepper, currants, and a dusting of spices. Gripping, peppery tannins that preclude a long finish---excellent---$48.
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Bouchaine Vineyards
As I was leaving Audelssa, I realized that I was dangerously close to running out of gas. With nothing between Audelssa and the valley floor, it was going to be a long 15 minute ride to the bottom... wondering if I was going to make it. Luckily, I was able to ride the whole way down the mountain in neutral... only once giving any gas. When the car leveled out, my gauge looked a little more optimistic, so I was able to comfortably get to a gas station while heading south toward Carneros.
Bouchaine is on the Napa side of Carneros, heading to the south of the appellation. Carneros is an interesting region for me visually. It seems like most of California's vineyard scenes have a background of mountains somewhere in the picture. In Carneros, I look around and see only benign rolling hills carpeted with vineyards. With a relative lack of trees, I can imagine it as a desert if the vineyards were removed. With the proximity to the San Pablo Bay and its cooling effects, this is a prime Pinot Noir and Chardonnay region; and Bouchaine certainly has plenty to choose from. It's a historic winery property that dates back before prohibition. Beringer bought the property in 1951, re-establishing the winery. It was purchased in 1981 by the current owners, Garret and Tatiana Copeland, who refurbished the winery into a rustic hop kiln style. Eventually they hired Carneros veteran Michael Richmond as winemaker and general manager, establishing their current viticulture and winemaking standards. The tasting room was warm and welcoming, with friendly staff and a great view.
The Wines-
-2008 Chêne d'Agent Estate Chardonnay, Carneros- Unoaked. Green apple, lilac, and river rock notes open on the nose- with crisp pear, apple, and honeycomb. Lively balance---good to very good---$24.
-2008 Estate Chardonnay, Carneros- Primarily barrel fermented with some stainless fermentation, partial malo. Expressive mineral notes-floral and with bright fruit. Stone and apple on the palate with pleasant creaminess, butterscotch, and vanilla---nice depth on the finish---very good---$25.
-2008 Laird Cold Creek Pinot Gris, Carneros- Neutral oak fermentation and aging with full malo. Bright apple and tropical fruit highlighted by floral notes- with pear and honey- full bodied and creamy. Good acid balance---good to very good---$25.
-2006 Rockin H Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- Barrel aged with partially new Hungarian oak. Notes of honey, butterscotch, truffle, and black fruit- with black cherry, plums, and creamy tannin spice---very good---$25.
-2007 Estate Pinot Noir, Carneros- Smoked meats, cherry, and herbs- with earthy and lightly spiced cherry and raspberry. Tannins with a touch of rubbed herbs, finishing with good depth---very good to excellent---$40.
-2007 Mariafeld Pinot Noir, Carneros- Mushroom, black cherry, herbs, and spice on the nose. Good acid greets the palate-with earthy & smoky black cherry, plums, and silky baking spice- with peppery tannins and nice spice on the closing---excellent---$30.
-2007 Estate Pinot Meunier, Carneros- Pepper, cherry, and violets- with more cherry and spice. Silky texture---very good---$??
-2007 Rockin H Syrah, Sonoma Coast- Gamey black fruit and spice throughout. Lush and fruity---good---$24.
Overall, these were nice wines for their price point. Nothing that blew me away, although the Mariafeld Pinot comes close when you consider the price. I like to add a little info about the winemaking, but their website was lacking info and hard to navigate...
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Gundlach Bundschu
Not content with 23 wineries in 5 days, I slid into Gundlach Bundschu right before closing. Those sneaking in under the bell stops can be a little iffy, see my 1st day stop at Peju in Napa. The staff at Gundlach Bundschu however, was helpful and engaging. I was able to taste through their reserve lineup, with a couple of extra pours thrown in.
There are a couple of interesting things about Gundlach Bundschu. Remarkably, it has been owned within the same families for over 150 years; surviving events like phylloxera and prohibition. Also, the property sits right on the border of the Sonoma Valley AVA, adjacent to Carneros AVA, and just over the Mayacamus foothills from Napa Valley. The Rhinefarm Vineyard's location- spread across 230 hillside, benchland, and valley floor acres- with the different climatic influences meeting- means that there's a good spot for just about any varietal somewhere on the property. There are underground caves, the tasting room is built into a hillside, and there is a really cool mural on the winery to honor its generations of vineyard workers. By all rights, my palate should have been shot by now, but I enjoyed the full range of wines that I had here, and still felt like what I was tasting made sense. Like Bouchaine in Carneros, these were well priced, extremely well-made wines, with nice balance and good depth.
The Wines-
-2008 Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley- Inoculated and indigenous yeasts, barrel fermented, lees stirring up to 5 months, 30% malo, 9 months in 10% French oak. Caramel, buttered popcorn, apple and pear aromas- with apple, heather, and honey- full bodied with a nice finish---very good---$27.
-2007 Estate Pinot Noir, Sonoma Valley- Dijon and Pommard clones, up to 40 year old vines, 12 months in 40% new French oak. Truffle, cherry, and clove aromas- with vanilla, cherry, herb, and spice notes full throughout the palate. Vibrant with gripping tannins, and a long spice-laden finish---very good to excellent---$34.
-2007 Estate Tempranillo, Sonoma Valley- 14 months in 40% new American oak. Leather, spice, maraschino cherry, rose petals- with spice, ample fruit, baked earth, and green herbs- fairly well balanced and a light finish---very good---$36.
-2007 Estate Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley- 15 months in 35% new American oak. Plums, cherry, butterscotch, and vanilla- with pepper, nutmeg, black cherry, and lavender. Silky with spicy oak tannins and nice length---very good to excellent---$38.
-2007 Estate Syrah, Sonoma Valley- 14 months in 40% new French oak. Blackberry, leather, cocoa, and espresso notes- with earthy, gamey cherry & spice. Silky and long---very good---$36.
-2007 Estate Cabernet Franc, Sonoma Valley- Violet, lavender, plums, and other black fruits- silky on the palate with black currant, cherry, and herbs. Cracked pepper on the tannins with nice length---very good to excellent---$38.
-2006 Vintage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley- 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, 6% Petite Verdot. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. Fig, tea, cherry, and coffee notes- with leather, roasted coffee, cigar box, and black currant. Silky and spicy throughout with depth to ride it out---very good to excellent---$80.
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And so it goes, Spring 2010- Napa & Sonoma, is in the books. Thanks to my friends Justin and Jon for tagging along with me for most of the trip. Thanks to all the helpful and friendly people that I met along the way. I didn't taste a bad wine while on the trip, just varying degrees of quality. Great times and great memories... cheers!
Link to all day 5 photos
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Vibrant Rioja Comes to Atlanta-
Good times were to be had at One Midtown Kitchen today for the Vibrant Rioja Atlanta trade tasting. Featured were some of Spain's best Riojas- from heavy hitters like Marqués de Riscal, Muga, and Campo Viejo; to the small familial estate producers. Overall, the quality of the wines was very high with an attractive quality to price ratio.
On the value end, Rosé was a very attractive option. I generally like Rosé wines, but have a hard time finding one that I love. The Rioja Rosado wines that I tasted today brought me closer to finding that passion. Some highlights included: the Hacienda Lopez de Haro Rosado 2oo8- 100% Tempranillo- lively green apple, spice, mineral, and violets; the Muga Rosado 2009- 60% Garnacha, 30% Viura, and 10% Tempranillo- fresh mineral notes with strawberry and apple; and the El Coto Rosado 2008- 50/50 Garnacha and Tempranilla, vibrant with a peppery and leathery kick and beautiful perfumed red fruit. All of these wines are perfect for casual summer drinking, but offer an added dimension of depth along with the crisp fruit- and all hover around the $10 price point!
There were several standouts among the reds. The best of them had lush dark fruits standing out among the earthy and leathery characteristics of the Tempranillo, with the new oak spice deeply wound within. A perfect example of this was a pair of wines from Maetierra Dominum. Their Quatro Pagos 2005, from old vines and aged 15-18 months in new French oak, is steeped in vanilla bean, espresso, and currant; building to a palate of silky currant and berries where the oak notes from the nose fade into a finish of mellow tannins and fine length. MD's Quatro Pagos Vintage 2005 ups the ante with over 18 months in new French oak; and notes of perfumed lavender, wild berry, and vanilla- with vibrant plum and cherry notes and fully integrated spice. The tannins are long with a velvet grip. These wines sell for between $40-$60. Outstanding with equal parts bold/hedonistic and depth/nuance. Other standouts for me included the Baron de Ley Gran Reserva 2001, and Campo Viejo's Ysios Reserva 2004.
This was a great opportunity for a crash course in Rioja, and a great reminder of the outstanding quality and value of these wines- from the everyday to the high-end. I hope to explore this region a little further in the future- cheers!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Day 4- Sonoma- Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley
Sunday 4/25/2010
Arnot-Roberts Winery
Sunday had us back in the Russian River Valley, with 4 stops in its different regions before heading up to Alexander Valley. The first stop was in Forestville at Arnot-Roberts, a winery founded in 2001 by longtime friends Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts. Both have spent their lifetime around winemaking in Napa Valley; Nathan being a second generation cooper-making all of the new barrels that Arnot-Roberts uses, and Duncan formerly working at several big name Napa wineries. They operate out of an old winery warehouse building in Forestville, a small town in the west of the Russian River Valley. Their wines are produced using natural yeast fermentations, without fining or filtering, and with little sulfur added at the fermenter. For aging, new oak is used very judiciously and the barrels are toasted to work specifically for the vintage at hand.
Of note, Arnot-Roberts wines on balance are a point or more lower in alcohol by volume than most of their contemporary California wines. Very finessed and truly European in style. Produced in very small quantities, and sourced from distinctive vineyards in Sonoma, Napa, and Mendocino Counties. Arnot-Roberts fits a more appropriate definition of a cult wine in my opinion- down to earth guys making wines that fly in the face of current convention in California; and in an unassuming Bohemian-type warehouse space. I really dig the aesthetic of the packaging as well- embodied by the California Fuchsia painting by Nathan's grandmother, Margrit Biever Mondavi, that dons most of their bottles. It was a real treat to taste through this rare wine with Nathan, the time was much appreciated. Special thanks as well to Hardy Wallace and his Dirty South Wine blog for turning me on to these guys.
The Wines-
-2009 Green Island Vineyard Chardonnay, Napa Valley- Unfiltered, all neutral oak. Straw in color. Beautiful nose with aromas of brie, wet stone, lime, and caramel. Lemongrass flavors with lime, flint, honeycomb, and green apple. Chablis-esque. Tart acidity, nicely integrated and balanced---excellent---+/-$30.
-2008 Syrah, North Coast- Inky in appearance. Expressive feminine lavender, berries, and perfume aromas with lean and tart berry, mineral, and cured meat flavors- tightly structured with added berries on the finish---very good---$20-$30.
-2007 Bugay Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County- Bright purple in the glass. Floral notes of lavender, cherry, leather, and herbs with pepper, herbs, red cherries, & currants. Spicy tannins finishing with notes of vanilla---excellent---+/-$50??
-2007 Alder Springs Syrah, Mendocino County- Inky with notes of bacon, sweet red cherry, and boysenberry. Explosive on the palate with currants, cracked pepper, red raspberry, and cherry- accented by gamey notes and peppery tannins- structured with a racy acidity. Lingering finish---excellent---+/-$50.
-2007 Clajeax Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill- Bright purple. Spicy aromas-clove, nutmeg, cedar, with red and dark fruits. Flavors of lavender, black currents, cassis, leather, pencil lead- full throughout with gripping tannins and a lengthy finish dusted with traces of fruit. Impactful yet elegant-very much like a fine Bordeaux---excellent to stellar---+/-$75.
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Iron Horse Vineyards
In Green Valley near Forestville, Iron Horse was just a quick hop over from Arnot-Roberts. It served as a nice little diversion into sparkling wines. If you've never been to Iron Horse before, the tasting area is outdoors and the winery sits on top of a hill above the vineyards. There is a fantastic view east across Russian River Valley all the way to Mt. St. Helena. The pourers are cool and the vibe is laid back. We opted for the tasting with 5 of Iron Horse's méthode Champenoise sparking wines- all estate estate grown in the Green Valley appellation.
The Wines-
-2004 Blanc de Blancs- 100% Chardonnay aged 4+ years on the lees. Fine and persistent bead. Yeast, mineral, and light fruit notes open up into fresh citrus and apple- bright and crisp---very good to excellent---$38.
-2006 Wedding Cuvée- Blanc de Noirs- 86% Pinot Noir, 14% Chardonnay. Fine in the glass. Yeast, wet stone, light cherry, red apple, and chalk on the finish- nice and long---excellent---$38.
-2005 Classic Vintage Brut- 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Aged 3 years on lees. Fine beads. Nice brioche and lemon notes with rich mineral, citrus, and apple notes and finish---excellent---$33.
-2005 Russian Cuvée- 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Aged 3 years on lees. Still Brut, but slightly sweeter dosage. More red fruit- apple & cherry along with yeast notes. More fruit driven---good to very good---$33.
-2005 Brut Rosé- 81% Pinot Noir, 19% Chardonnay. Color comes from extraction rather than blending in still wine. Red cherry and strawberry with further darker notes predominate on the palate- the extraction is a little overpowering for my tastes---good---$50.
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Joseph Swan Vineyards
Moving back east into the heart of the Russian River Valley, we stopped to taste at Joseph Swan Vineyards. Joseph Swan was a pioneer of Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley. The winery is now owned by longtime winemaker Rod Berglund. They still specialize in small lots of unique and interesting single vineyard Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. The wines are rich and bold with full fruit and spice, yet elegant and very refined with less extraction and alcohol than many contemporaries. In their way they really embody the Russian River Valley. The tasting room is in the middle of the cellar- very low key and all about the wines.
The Wines-
-2006 Cuvée du Trois Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Blend, Partial whole clusters, wild and cultured yeasts, 10 months in French Burgundy barrels, unfined and unfiltered. Dirty brick red with clarity. Cinnamon and sour cherry with nice full flavors of cherry and allspice. Lots of spice and good acidity. Dusty grip with a nice finish---very good to excellent---$28.
-2006 Trenton View Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Same brick red color. Similar cinnamon and cherry notes with a greater earthiness. Mushrooms, spice, and red fruit with a nice, long grip---excellent---$35.
-2005 Mancini Ranch Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Medium ruby color. Mulled cider, cherry, and maple with spice rack and red fruit. Silky tannins and finish---very good to excellent---$26.
-2005 Zeigler Ranch Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Similar color to the Mancini. Spices and mulled raspberry notes with more sweet, mulled red fruit on the palate. Silky with nice length---very good to excellent---$26.
-2006 Saralee Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Clear ruby. Earth, spice-box, and red fruit with cherry and cola flavors. Great acid profile with gripping tannins and lingering red fruit flavors---excellent---$36.
-2005 Trenton Station Syrah, Russian River Valley- Inky. Smokey and gamey with black fruit, herbs, and pepper. Pepper, olive, and spice notes all compliment the black fruit. Pure silk through the tannins---very good to excellent---$22.
-2006 Matthew's Station Tannat, Russian River Valley- Brown-ruby. Port-like with maple notes. Big black fruit with firm tannins---good to very good---$28.
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Thomas George Estates
Our last two tastings were set up the previous day during our chance meeting with Fritz Stuhlmuller. He was nice enough to hook us up at Thomas George Estate, as well as Stuhlmuller Vineyards. Thomas George Estates is a fairly new winery along Westside Road in the north of the Russian River Valley- the historic former site of Davis Bynum. Jeremy Baker, a Toronto restaurateur, purchased the winery and the estate vineyards in a family partnership in early 2008, and completely renovated the winery complex. They're developing three vineyards for an estate program- Baker Ridge-above the winery, Cresta Ridge-in Green Valley, and Starr Ridge-in northeast of the Russian River Valley appellation. The winemaker is Chris Russi, formerly of Christopher Creek Winery in Russian River Valley.
The winery and tasting room are modern and upscale-contemporary in feel, with beautifully appointed grounds. There's much attention to detail-with the feel of a facility tied to a touring business. The wines were consistently enjoyable- bold fruit, good balance, some finesse, integrated oak spice- solid and consistently Russian River Valley in style.
The Wines-
-2008 Sauvignon Musque, Dry Creek Valley- Apple, citrus, and mineral aromas with honeyed citrus notes, apple, and lime. Clean finish with lingering citrus fruit---very good---$25.
-2008 Windsor Oaks Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley- 100% Stainless steel. Lime, banana, and citrus- with lemon grass and apple flavors. Lively acidity that balances and mellows as it finishes---very good---$25.
-2008 Viognier, Sonoma Valley- Stainless steel fermented, no malo. Full expressive aromas of Rose petals, minerals,apple, honey, and peach- with honeyed floral and peach on the palate. Good acid and balance and with a nice finish---very good---$28.
-2008 Stuhlmuller Chardonnay, Inox, Alexander Valley- Unoaked with no malo. Straw, honey, lemon, and apple with mulled apple and lemon meringue. Nice balance-smooth and creamy on the palate---very good to excellent---$32.
-2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- 2-4 day cold soak, inoculated, 10 months in 33% new French oak. Honey, maple, raspberry, and floral aromas-inviting. A silky rush of fruit with herbal and floral notes. Balanced with acid and spicy oak tannins lacing the red fruit finish---very good to excellent---$38.
-2007 Allen Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Aging in 33% new French oak. Cedar on the nose with floral-violet, earth, and cherry notes. Red fruit with mushroom and mossy notes- rich and silky with a great finish---excellent---$55.
-2007 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- 5 day cold soak with 8-10 day fermentation w/thrice daily punch downs. Aged for 10 months in 33% new, 66% American oak. 5% Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah. Vanilla, black cherry, and boysenberry with cedar and black fruit. Peppery and spicy tannins with a long finish---excellent---$28.
-2008 Tre Torrente Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- Aged in 25% new American oak- 16.5 abv. Vanilla, spice rack, lavender, and subtle fruit with port-like black fruit and more vanilla spice on the tannins and some pepper on a big finish---excellent---$33.
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Stuhlmuller Vineyards
Stuhlmuller Vineyards is located on the southern border of Alexander Valley- to the adjacent north of the Russian River Valley appellation, and to the adjacent northwest of Chalk Hill. Their riverside Chardonnay vineyards benefit from the cool morning fog of the Russian River. The Cabernet is grown on the slopes off the river. The Stuhlmuller's bought the vineyards in the 1980's and operated the property solely as vineyards until 2000, when their son Fritz achieved the dream of establishing an estate winery on the property. The style is rich and crisp, cool climate Chardonnay; and approach-ably bold and balanced Cabernet. It's a great little spot in the middle of the vineyards- in a tucked away part of Alexander Valley. The modest tasting room looks into the winery.
The Wines-
-2008 Estate Chardonnay, Alexander Valley- Fermented with indigenous yeast and aged sur lie in 10% new French oak for 8 months, 76% undergoing indigenous maloactic fermentation. Pear, Meyer lemon, and citrus with additional spice, apple, and caramel. Very balanced with lively acid-finishing with apple and spice---excellent---$24.
-2007 Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Alexander Valley- Fermented in barrel and aged for 14 months sur lie with 40% new French oak. Unfiltered. Indigenous yeast with full malo. Richer in color. Butterscotch, caramel, and candied apple with rich buttery apple flavors---very good---$38.
-2008 Estate Zinfandel, Alexander Valley- Not yet released. Boysenberry, cherry, caramel, spice, and blueberry- with more cherry and spice, full through the tannins and long finish---very good to excellent---$28.
-2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley- 18 months in 46% new French oak. Black cherry, spice, mint- light and floral- with red fruit, tobacco, and earthy spice. Firm with nice length---very good---$36.
-2006 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley- 3.5% Petite Verdot blended in. 18 months in 55% new French oak. Red raspberry, boysenberry, and mossy earth with black cherry, raspberry. Gliding and silky with with spicy tannins before finishing long with smooth flavors of baking spice---excellent---$65.
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With good luck and good planning, it was another awesome day of wine tasting. Alas, it was time to see my buddies Justin and Jon off to a red eye flight back to Atlanta. I had another day before my departure. We ended up in a Wal-Mart parking lot in Rohnert Park, with the two of them trying to pack up massive amounts of wine to fly back home with... they managed to make it work and get to their flight. There was one more day to follow for me, with multiple stops in Sonoma County and Carneros...
Click here for all Day 4 pictures-
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Day 3- Napa Valley-north
4/24/2010Robert Keenan Winery
Saturday we headed back into Napa Valley, this time covering areas north of Rutherford. Starting on Spring Mountain at Robert Keenan, all of the stops were potential highlights. Back in the 1970's Keenan restored the winery and vineyards, which had originally been cultivated before prohibition. Now they regularly churn out acclaimed wines under the guidance of consulting winemaker Nils Venge, who in 1985 became the first American winemaker to receive a perfect score from Robert Parker for his 1985 Groth Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Keenan is known for big, briary Cabernet and Merlot with restrained and elegant fruit.
The mountain cabin-esque winery is perched on the slopes of Spring Mountain, overlooking the vineyards and the valley farther below. The tasting bar and table overlooks the barrels, under cathedral wood ceilings. A cool setting befitting the mountain location. We were served a great assortment of cheeses along with the wines. Very nice, but casual at the same time. Overall the wines were very enjoyable, a nice way to start the day.
The Wines-
-2007 Chardonnay, Spring Mountain- 80% Barrel fermented in French & American oak, weekly lees stirring, and no malo. Butterscotch, pear, and peach with light caramel and subtle fruit. Light mineral notes- balanced and nice---very good---$29.
-2006 Merlot, Napa Valley- 97% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. A blend of Spring Mountain and Carneros fruit. Aged 18 months in 33% new French and American oak. Boysenberry and black cherry greets the nose- lean and rich black fruit with firm tannins and earthy herbal and coffee notes---very good---$36.
-2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain- 86% Spring Mountain, 14% Pope Valley fruit. 20 months in 33% new French & American oak. Fig and red berries usher in black & red fruit, light spice, and pepper notes. Lean and firm with a peppery finish---very good with excellent potential---$45.
-2006 Zinfandel, Napa Valley- 70% estate. A Napa Valley blend with aging in French and American oak. Gamey black raspberry & blueberry with spice and pepper. Lean with light creamy tannins---very good---$34.
-2006 Mernet Reserve, Spring Mountain- 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc. Black pepper, violet, and black fruit with spice and creamy tannins. Long with earth and spice notes---excellent---$96.
-2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain- 100% estate, no aging info given. Dense extraction. Earthy and pungent black raspberry notes- elegant on the palate with dried herbs and allspice along with dark fruits and creme de menthe laced tannins that linger---excellent with stellar potential---$96.
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Storybook Mountain Vineyards
Storybook Mountain north of Calistoga is the Zin-haven of Jerry Seps- the pioneer of ultra-premium Zinfandel in Northern Napa Valley over the last 30 years. Our tour started in the redwoods around the winery and lead up into the vineyards, where we saw Mr. Seps working the organic vineyards. The expanse of east-facing hillside vineyards like an offering for Mt. St. Helena in the distance . We tasted the wines deep in the aging caves. Along with another group we ran across, the tasting turned out to be more like a cocktail party. All was good though, we met Fritz Stuhlmuller from Stuhlmuller Vineyards- a great dude who set us up on some good stuff for the following day. The visit to Storybook was a lot of fun- great surroundings, cool caves, and fantastic wine.
The Wines-
-2009 Estate Zin Gris, Napa Valley- Barrel fermented, Zinfandel rosé. Cherry blossom and strawberry- fresh and crisp---very good---$19.
-2007 Mayacamus Range Estate Zinfandel, Napa Valley- Vanilla, nutmeg, and blackberries along with mint, spice rack, and cigar box notes. Supple tannins with lingering spice- elegant---excellent---$34.
-2006 Anteaus Estate, Napa Valley- Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Merlot. Non-inoculated fermentation, French oak aged. Black currant, fig, tobacco with cigar box, cassis, and spice. Long with silky tannins---very good to excellent---$40.
-2006 Seps Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- Smoky pipe tobacco, herbs, figs, and currants. Rich & bold fruit, fine balance, light and silky tannins with a white peppery finish---excellent---$65. -2006 Estate Reserve Zinfandel, Napa Valley- Gamey, black cherry, blackberry, coffee, black tea, a gamut of spices and more fruit. Silky and wrapped in clove-laced tannins with layers of flavors throughout---excellent to stellar---$55.
-The 2008 Seps Estate Zinfandel was really nice as well***
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Joseph Phelps Vineyards
After all that Zin, we needed to refuel with some killer beef tri-tip at Buster's Southern Barbecue in Calistoga. With the mission accomplished, it was off to Joseph Phelps for a quick terrace tasting. The plan here was to taste Insignia, completing a trifecta with Hillside Select, Monte Bello of classic California Cabernet tasted on the trip. Instead of their formal tastings, we tasted outside on the terrace patio- a great setup. You can taste and relax at your own pace- overlooking the vineyards and soaking up the scenery. Overall the wines leading up to Insignia were good quality, albeit a little overpriced and non-distinctive. The 2006 Insignia was excellent as expected.
The Wines--2006 Freestone "Ovation" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast- 15 months in French oak, 60% new. Buttered popcorn on the nose with pear, candied apple, and butterscotch. Balanced with good acid. Not overly buttery. Finishes with the oaky vanilla---very good---$45.
-2007 Viognier, Napa Valley- Stainless steel fermented with 10 months in French oak. Partial malo. Meyer lemon, yellow apple, and floral notes with tart lime on the palate. Tart with good balance---very good---$50.
-2006 Freestone Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- 100% estate grown with 15 month in 65% new French oak. Black and red cherries, red curry, and tea. Silky notes of cherry and spice on the palate. Nice, but a little loose in structure---good---$55.
-2006 Merlot, Napa Valley- Aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. Smoked black fruit on the nose turns fleshy and tart on the palate. Spicy tannins and fine structure---very good---$40.
-2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 2% Petite Verdot, and 2% Malbec. Aged 19 months in 50% new French and American oak. Tight cherry, basil, and mint notes- silky red fruit with spice rack. Steady tannins finishing with mint and leather---very good---$54.
-2006 Insignia, Napa Valley- 24 months in 100% new French oak. Fully extracted. Dusty spices, leather, cigar box, and berries with currants, anise, and herbs. Firm and finishing long with herbs & spice and red fruit---excellent---$200.
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Seavey Vineyard
We wound our way down Conn Valley Road- a short little departure from the valley floor that really feels far off the beaten path- finally arriving at Seavey. Seavey is essentially an old dairy farm in Conn Valley, restored into a winery and vineyards in 1981 by William Seavey. The winery is an old stone building overlooking what remains of the dairy farm. The vineyards are off in the distance on gentle low mountain slopes and across the pasture toward Lake Hennessey and Pritchard Hill. The vineyards are sustainable farmed and the winery is solar powered. All wines are 100% estate grown. The winemaking is overseen by consulting winemaking superstar Philippe Melka.
Oddly enough, we ran across the same group we saw at Storybook Mountain and had the pleasure to ride their coattails and taste some 1997 Cab. It was a lot of fun, and the wine was unbelievable... the best of the trip.
The Wines-
-2007 Merlot, Napa Valley- 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. Tobacco, black fruit, and tea with black pepper, coffee, black raspberry, and currants. Firm and gripping lingering mocha notes---excellent---$45.
-2007 Caravina Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with 19 months in 40% new French oak. Coffee, raspberry, and tea with oak and cedar notes. Waves of vanilla, mocha, black fruits, leather, and cigar box. Firm and gripping with a long deep finish---excellent---$55.
-2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petite Verdot. 19 months in 50% new French oak. Extracted. Vanilla, tobacco, and peppery black fruit aromas. Silky on the palate with vanilla, cracked pepper laced black fruit, and nutmeg. Clove wrapped tannins that are firm but supple. Very lengthy finish with fruit, spice, and pepper---stellar with classic potential---$105.
-1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petite Verdot. 18 months in 40% new French oak. Extracted. On the nose I got barnyard, meaty, gamey, coffee, currant, fig, and cassis notes-profound. On the palate it was creamy notes of vanilla, nutmeg, and cloves with loads of baking spice and cracked pepper. The tannins are lush with fruit and spice- very long. This could make you cry tears of joy!---classic---$205.
-2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley- Whole cluster pressed and fermented using indigenous and inoculated yeast, barrel fermented in 33% new French oak. Green apple, blue cheese, and yeast with more rich cheese notes, red apple, and citrus. Interesting, excellent balance. Mineral notes and good acidity finishing long---excellent---$40.
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We had planned to taste at Cade on Howell Mountain, but didn't make it before they closed. We did get some cool pictures though. Dinner was at Girl And The Fig in Sonoma- steak tartar appetizer with a grilled salmon- it totally lived up the hype. Day 3 was an amazing day! Click the link for day 3 pictures.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
DAY 2- Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley (part 2)
4/23/2010
Dutton-Goldfield Winery
After a quick lunch at Bill's Deli & Grocery on Gravenstein Hwy in Sebastopol, we headed across the street to the new Dutton-Goldfield tasting room. I visited Dutton-Goldfield at their shared location with Balletto Vineyards last year, and loved the wines. With the proximity to Merry Edwards, this was a great chance to pop in for a quick visit to taste through the new releases. The new facility serves the dual purpose of being a tasting room and their warehouse storage facility. It's a nice open space with a contemporary feel and artwork on the walls. While we were there, winemaker and co-proprietor Dan Goldfield was blasting out some Stevie Ray Vaughn tunes to test out the sound system. Dutton-Goldfield is a no-frills tasting experience; just extremely solid wines served at the bar- perfect for a drop-in tasting.
The Wines-
-2008 Gewurztraminer, Green Valley- Peach cobbler and crisp citrus fruit, with honey and heather notes. Nice and refreshing with good aromatics---good to very good---$25.
-2007 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley-All barrel fermented in 40% new French oak with twice monthly lees stirring, 100% malo. Straw-gold. Butterscotch, apple, and caramel with bright mineral notes and nice finish---very good---$35.
-2007 McDougall Ranch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- Aged 17 months in 45% new French oak. Medium clarity. Red cherry, pepper, and earth notes highlighted with red apple and baking spice-laden tannins. Great finish---excellent---$58.
-2007 Freestone Hill Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Aged 17 months is 55% new French oak. Brighter garnet color. Cherry cola and violets with bright cranberry, cherry, and cinnamon with silky tannins and a lengthy finish---excellent---$58.
-2007 Sanchietti Pinot Noir, Green Valley- 17 months, 55% new. Earthy and gamey red berries with cherry cola and baking spice. Spicy tannins and finish---very good to excellent---$58.
-2007 Devil's Gulch Pinot Noir, Marin County- Terrace and slope lots fermented and aged seperately, 17 months-60% new. Deeper and more dense. Cherry and pepper- silky red berry and light spicy tannins---very good---$58.
-2008 Morelli Lane Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Like pinots- cold soaked with gentle punch-downs, aged 16 months in 40% French oak barrels. Ruby & bright with medium clarity. Black fruit and cherry with silky berry notes and spice. Cool silky tannins and long finish---excellent---$40.
-2007 Cherry Ridge Syrah, Russian River Valley- 20 months in 40% new French oak barrels. Ruby and dense. Gamey black cherry and spice notes with gamey rich red fruit with supple tannins and a berry finish---excellent---$35.
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Peterson Winery
We headed up into Dry Creek Valley to taste at Peterson Winery. Peterson is located on Dry Creek Road in the Timbercrest Farms complex along with several other wineries. Fred Peterson has been producing wines in Dry Creek Valley for over 20 years, with his son Jamie recently moving to the position of winemaker. The Petersons believe in sustainable farming and minimal intervention in the winemaking process. Much of their wine comes from their own Bradford Mountain vineyard in the northwest of Dry Creek Valley. We tasted through the Peterson wines with Jamie.
The Wines-
-2009 Timbercrest Farms Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley- 96% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Muscat Blanc. Fermentation begins in stainless steel then is moved to French oak (10% new), full malo. Lemon-grass nose with ample tropical and citrus fruit on the palate. Balanced acidity and minerality---good to very good---$17.
-2007 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- 84% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah, 6% Carignane. 80% neutral mixed oak, 10% new Hungarian, 10% new American. Ruby with medium density. Bacon, cherry, vanilla with coffee, black fruits, and baking spice tannins. Nice and ripe but not overly aggressive---very good---$23.
-2005 Bradford Mountain Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- Unfined and unfiltered. Aged 21 months in 20% new French, 20% new Hungarian, 60% 3-5 year old French Oak. Ruby and dense. Black cherry and anise with currant, pepper, vanilla. Peppery tannins and long cinnamon on the finish---excellent---$32.
-2007 Shinbone, Dry Creek Valley- 60% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Unfined and unfiltered. 40% new Hungarian, 20% new French, and 40% 2-4 year old American barrels. Full throttle-cocoa, mocha, and black fruit with soft tannins and spice on the finish---good to very good---$28.
-2002 Agraria, Bradford Mtn Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley- 80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot. 26 months in 100% new French Oak. Floral on the nose with tobacco and cedar. Violets and strawberry, baking spice, cherry. Silky firm with spice on the finish---very good---$60.
-2007 1-2-3 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley- Inky and dense. Gamey, briary red fruit with licorice, ripe blackberry, and peppery tannins---good---$23.
-2006 Bradford Mountain Syrah, Dry Creek Valley- 92% Syrah, 7%Viognier, 1% Petite Sirah. Unfined and unfiltered. 22 months in 60% new French Oak. Inky and dense. Meaty wild black fruit with mocha, vanilla, and dried herbs. Smooth and silky tannins with a long finish of herbs and spice---excellent---$45.
-2007 Home Farm Muscat Blanc- 75% Muscat Blanc, 25% Orange Muscat. Fortified. Lightly sweet orange and honey notes with great balance---excellent---$30 375ml.
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Ridge Vineyards-Lytton Springs
We snuck into Ridge-Lytton Springs right before closing time; which ended up being a coup, as they were pouring the Monte Bello Cabernet. Lytton Springs is right on the eastern edge of Dry Creek Valley heading back into Healdsburg. It's an eco-friendly winery and tasting room with 125 year old Zinfandel vines greeting you as you head inside. Our pourer was friendly and engaging; I have to give alot of credit to her as we were tasting at the end of the day.
The Wines-
-2006 Monte Bello Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains- Unfiltered. Mineral, creme fraiche, and lemon grass with honeysuckle, pear, and butterscotch with balanced acidity and a nice finish---very good to excellent---$60.
-2006 Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains- 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Natural yeasts. Brambly fruit- boysenberry and red berries, leather and pencil lead- classically styled with ample red fruit and spice. Dusty and firm with herbs and spice, finishing long and elegant---excellent to stellar---$145.
-2006 Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley- 80% Zinfandel, 16% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignane. Cherry pie, raspberry tort, vanilla with blue & red berries, vanilla, and light spices. Spicy, firm and long---very good---$35.
-2006 Geyserville, Sonoma County- 70% Zinfandel, 18% Carignane, 10% Petite Sirah, 2% Mataro. Red ruby and less dense. Tight nose with herbal black fruit. Black fruit with touches of strawberry & plums with supple tannins of black pepper and lengthy finish---very good---$35.
-2006 Old School Zinfandel, Alexander Valley- Black currant, vanilla, with ample black fruits and clove spice- silky and long---very good to excellent---$???.
-2006 Ponzo Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Natural fermentation and aged 12 months in American oak. Musky, mushroom, and red fruit with plums, pepper, and lush tannins---very good---$28.
-2007 Nervo Zinfandel, Alexander Valley- Candied red fruit and peppery black fruit with firm tannins and cinnamon notes on the finish---very good---$???.
-2006 Caboose Zinfandel, Nervo Vineyard, Sonoma County- Natural fermentation, 15 months in American oak. Medicinal, tar, and floral notes with black & red fruit, clove & cinnamon. Silky with spicy tannins finishing long---excellent---$28.
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Wow- what a crazy day of wine tasting and touring. We went from coastal mountains along the Sonoma Coast to the pastoral Dry Creek Valley, tasting a crazy variety of wines. We grabbed a beer at the Dry Creek Valley General Store, where we met the owner- Gina Gallo. Dinner was at Bistro Ralph in Healdsburg. A pretty amazing cheese plate precluded the best Caesar salad I've ever eaten. A pretty decadent lamb meatloaf topped pretty much did me in from there...
Full photos from day 2. Next- back to Napa Valley-Storybook Mountain, Keenan, and Seavey.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
DAY 2- Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley (part 1)
Friday April 23, 2010Hirsch Vineyards
The drive up to Hirsch was quite amazing. It took us through the morning fog of the Russian River Valley, up through Monte Rio, and along the Russian River to Highway 1. Following the rugged Sonoma coastline for a spell and then up into the coastal mountains, we finally found ourselves at the Hirsch Vineyards. But not before mile after mountain mile of one-lane road, hairpin curves, and even driving through backyards- ruins of crashed cars notwithstanding. It's a great way to bring the term "Far Sonoma Coast" to life.
Justin and Jon getting the vineyard tourBack at the winery, we toured the open-top fermenters and the barrel room, as we were joined by winemaker Ross Cobb. Ross was great, entertaining my friend Justin's questions about his approach to natural fermentation, and showing us the 14 gallon glass demijohns in which his Chardonnay is partially fermented. Finally, we headed into the office to taste a couple of wines they had lying around. Thanks to Tess for setting everything up, and to both Tess and Ross for being so hospitable. This was a great stop, a fascinating departure from the rest of the wine trail circuit. My only regret is not allowing more time before the second appointment of the day. Our 10:00 appointment was followed by a 1:00 back in the Russian River Valley- an hour and fifteen minute drive back. We had to hustle to get back- bottoming out on a random speed hump coming down the mountain and almost nailing a sheep!
Justin and Ross Cobb talking about yeastThe Wine-
-2008 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast- Partial oak, glass, and stainless steel fermentation. Wild yeast fermentation. Full malo. Unfiltered. Neutral oak aging. Earthy nose with pungent notes of aged cheeses and bright apple. Earthy on the palate with bright fruit and mineral balance. Good acid and a long finish---excellent---$50.
-2007 San Andreas Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- A ruby color with good clarity. Gamey, cherry, and forest floor notes initiate velvety strawberry and cherry fruit soaked in silky tannins. Nice earthy fruit finish---excellent---I could see this further developing the depth of flavors with a few years time---$60.
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Merry Edwards Winery
The tasting at Merry Edwards was definitely structured and seminar-like. It's more of a pitch on the wines than a chance for dialogue. The winery itself is more of a modern working winery facility than a hospitality center. The tastings are put on at conference tables off of the office area. The grounds are really pretty though, with beds of flowers and the Coopersmith Vineyard surrounding the winery. What I liked about the tasting was having a map of the Russian River Valley in front of us with the vineyard locations marked. This was a great tool while tasting through the single vineyard Pinot Noirs. The Pinots were all nice and lush and rich- very prototypical Russian River Valley. Most were with silken red fruit and more spice than earth. For my taste, they lacked just a little bit of that extra depth that might have taken them above and beyond- but very nice all the same. The Sauvignon Blanc was outstanding.
The Wines--2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Black cherry & currants with a slight earthiness. Dusty tannins with pepper and baking spice on the finish---very good---$42.
-2007 Tobias Glen Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- A blend of Dijon clones. Lighter in color. Generous aromas of red cherry, mushroom, minerals with red cherry and strawberry fruit with white pepper on the palate. Lighter peppery tannins with a little more earth than spice on the finish---very good to excellent---$54.
-2007 Flax Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- From Pommard clones. Darker and more dense. Cherry cola and herbal notes with raspberry and light spice. A little loose on the finish---good---$54.
-2007 Meredeth Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Darker with density. Baking spice and cherry with raspberry, dried herbs, and strawberry. Dried herb-laced tannins with additional berry notes on the finish---very good to excellent---$54.
-2007 Klopp Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- A little lighter color and appearance than the Flax or the Meredeth. Generous red cherry, cola, and pepper with earth and mushroom notes. Silky tannins with a finish of oak and spice---very good to excellent---$58.
-2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley- Barrel fermented in 18% new French oak. Straw-gold. Aromatic with slight vegetal notes and a lot of tropical fruit. Creamy yet crisp tropical fruit flavors- pineapple and lime- with a great finish---excellent---$30.
Next, more notes on Day 2. Click the link for photos of Day 2 in Sonoma County.
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