Tasting the 2010's at Brewer-Clifton

I'm a fan of Greg Brewer's wines at Melville and Brewer-Clifton. So the lineup of new 2010's and a few older wines being poured at Brewer-Clifton's tasting room for Santa Barbara Vintners' Fest weekend was right up my alley.

If you're not already familiar, Brewer-Clifton makes single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards throughout Sta. Rita Hills. They control 100% of the fruit from four vineyards- 3-D, Gnesa, Machado and Mount Carmel; while sourcing from many others. The winemaking centers around perfectly ripe fruit maintaining good acidity, adding depth and texture on the Pinot Noir through whole-cluster fermentation. Each wine is fermented and aged identically with aging in neutral French oak. All of this is meant to showcase the individual characteristics of the vineyards, and the common elements of the AVA as a whole.

Overall this lineup was most impressive from the Mount Carmel and Ampelos vineyards. The best of the Pinot Noir tended to maintain a softness and elegance in the face of darker ripe fruit and earthiness. Others were impressive with ripe fruit and presence while falling short of that ideal elegance and texture. The best Chardonnays had a dense complexity to go along with the racy acid, suggesting some life ahead. All of the wines were very enjoyable.

All of my notes are below. The appellation wines retail for $30-$36 and the single vineyard wines retail for $46-$56. Information about the vintages and production of the wines is available from the Brewer-Clifton website. If you're interested in this producer or this region I hope you find this useful~

Brewer-Clifton 2010 Pinot Noir Ampelos, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Alluring aromas of floral, earth, clove and delicate red fruit- very pretty. Deft on the palate with structured acid and fine tannins- great presence and complexity. Very present flavors of earth and spice, but the fruit is focused and pure. Long open finish with mineral and floral influence. (Rating- I love!)

Brewer-Clifton 2009 Pinot Noir Mt. Carmel, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Smokey earth and dark fruit on the bouquet. Pure and silky on the palate adding elements of spice and slate and dried herb to the earth and fruit. Fine firm tannins and a full spice-laden finish. (Rating- I like+!)

Brewer-Clifton 2010 Pinot Noir Machado, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Dense aromas of earth, violet, plum & dark cherry. The palate shows nice acid and a delicate sensibility. Very nuanced mix of ripe fruit, spice, earth and floral flavors. Polished fine structure and a full open finish. (Rating- I like+!)

Brewer-Clifton 2010 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Full aromas of tart cherry and dried fruitcake. The palate brings spice and some balance to the dark ripe cherry flavors. Round and ripe and full with fine polished tannins and a pleasant bitterness on the finish. (Rating- I like!)

Brewer-Clifton 2008 Chardonnay Mt. Carmel, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Aromas of vanilla and cream with tropical and citrus fruit. Full tangy lime fruit with mineral, honey and spice. Round and opulent feel with medium weight. Balanced acid structure and a full finish. (Rating- I like+!)

Brewer-Clifton 2009 Chardonnay Mt. Carmel, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. The complexity starts on the bouquet- lactic frommage aromas with honey, white-floral, lychee & stone fruit. Dense and smooth on the palate with great complexity and balance. Layers of fruit, mineral, spice and floral flavors. Nice presence and weight with a pleasing tangy gripping finish. (Rating- I love!)

Brewer-Clifton 2010 Chardonnay Sea Smoke, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Aromas of honeycomb, spice, lychee & kiwi. Opens on the palate with vibrant mineral notes and lime/tropical fruit. Hints of floral dried herb and eastern spice. Opulent roundness is balanced with acid. Full opulent finish with tinges of slate-mineral. (Rating- I like!)

Brewer-Clifton 2010 Chardonnay Gnesa, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Begins on the bouquet with honey, straw, white-floral and stone fruit. Tightly wound stone fruit and lime with hints of vanilla and tangy minerality. Drinks elegantly with smoothness and round feel. Lingering finish. (Rating- I like+!)

Brewer-Clifton 2010 Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills

Tasting room pour- 4/20. Citrus and tropical aromas- banana & kiwi with hints of dried herb and clove. Grassy tropical fruit and lime on the palate- very bright with some opulence. Mineral notes add to the finish along with lingering fruit. (Rating- I like!)

Santa Barbara County- The Arrival

It's been a hectic few weeks. A cross-country move by car was followed by work training and travel -- with temporary housing thrown on top. I'm in the Santa Barbara area, but circumstances have barely given me time to get to know the area -- much less unpack and enjoy wine. 

My final destination is 45 minutes north in the Santa Ynez Valley. I've spent a few days driving from one side of the valley to the other looking for a place to live. It's been a little surreal. Having traveled there for wine tasting it's now becoming a place of real life and responsibility. One thing that's striking is how much bigger the area seems when you're not breezing through for wine tasting. Visiting in May I visited wineries in Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley and Santa Maria Valley all in a single day. That seems a little crazy to me now. 

It's easy to understand some of the climatic and geographical differences of Santa Barbara's AVA's on a surface level. Starting a new life here however is a full realization of the enormity and diversity of the area. It's little things like making the drive from Lompoc to Solvang; along the way watching the thermometer in my car change, or watching the landscape and vegetation change. Or realizing that it might actually take me a half hour if I want to take the alternate route of Santa Rosa Road through the heart of Sta. Rita Hills. I'm fully realizing and respecting the uniqueness of the each wine region. I haven't even had time to get up to Santa Maria Valley yet -- it seems like a world away.

It's been a dry winter this year in Santa Barbara County. The dormant winter vineyards and dry landscapes of the hills and mountains show like a beautiful sophisticated face -- the projection changing with sunlight and mood. Poignant moments behind the wheel to and fro. 

******************

This past weekend was the first chance to get out and actually do some wine tasting. I visited the Tercero tasting room in Los Olivos, Rusack Vineyards, and Brewer-Clifton's open house. 

The Tercero Wines tasting room is located in the town of Los Olivos; amongst the plethora of tasting rooms, restaurants and shops. Tercero is the brainchild of Larry Schaffer, who switched mid-career from the publishing industry to wine. His focus is on Santa Barbera-grown and mostly Rhône varietals with a style that marries pure opulent fruit to balanced elegance with added subtle depth. The wines are focused and purely enjoyable. My favorites were-

 -2009 TerceroGrenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley- Aromas of pine and eucalyptus stand out, accompanied by lemongrass and slate. Lots of slate and citrusy flavors on the palate with nice feel and balance. Pure flavors. Medium finish. (I like+!)

-2007 Tercero Grenache Camp 4 Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley- Darker fruit profile on the bouquet than typical Grenache- chocolate-covered cherries, plum & anise. Flavors of black cherry, plum, cocoa and cracker pepper. Nice feel and weight. The tannins are firm and fine leading to a nice full finish augmented with spice notes. (I really like!)

-2007 Tercero Syrah, Thompson Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley- Meaty aromas of blueberry and cassis. Opulent on the palate with blue & black fruit along with savory notes highlighted with white pepper. Pure flavors with nice balance. Drinks with a nice roundness and fine tannins- finishing full. Pure enjoyment. (I really like+!)

The Rusack Vineyard tasting room is located along beautiful Ballard Canyon Road in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley. This is a prime location for Syrah- which Rusack grows there in their vineyards. They also make the Bordeaux blend Anacapa from Santa Ynez Valley grapes as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley. Rusack is also launching a really cool project producing wines from Santa Catalina Island. The tasting room was crazy busy when I was there, but I managed to taste through their current releases. I found the wines to be enjoyable and balanced overall, albeit without anything that blew me away. The favorites were-

-2009 Rusack Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley- Black cherry, rhubarb, licorice spice on the nose. Layered fruit and mineral spice on the palate- red raspberry & cherry with an added note of tea. Silky fine tannins and a medium finish. (I like!)

-2009 Rusack Reserve Syrah Ballard Canyon,Santa Ynez Valley- Aromas of vanilla, cracked pepper, eucalyptus and blue & red fruit. Streamlines into blueberry, coffee bean and baking spice on the palate with a rich feel and round tannins. Medium finish and more notes of baking spice. (I like!)

The final stop was in Lompoc for Brewer-Clifton’s annual open house. The event featured current releases and library wines, as well as a meet and greet with Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton. I’m a big fan of their wines, which are vineyard designate Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (if you’re not familiar). All wines are vinified in the same manner, leaving the individual vineyards to speak for themselves. For example- all of the Pinot Noir is whole cluster fermented, inoculated with neutral yeast and aged in neutral French barriques. Favorites of the lineup included the 2010 3D Chardonnay, 2007 Rancho Santa Rosa Chardonnay, 2010 Gnesa Chardonnay, 2010 Machado Pinot Noir, 2010 3D Pinot Noir and the 2006 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir. My favorite overall was-

-2006 Brewer-Clifton Lindsay’s Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills- Really cool dank and rustic notes on the bouquet- earth, floral, red fruit and mineral. Bright raspberry & strawberry flavors with slate and earth- accented by briary spice notes toward the back of the palate. Silky fine tannins and a full breathy finish. (I loved!)