Epic Grapestomping at Chateau Champoux

In September my friends Justin and Jon traveled with me all the way to Washington and Horse Heaven Hills to compete in Chateau Champoux's 2011 Grape Stomping Competition. Needless to say, three strangers from Georgia were the heels of the competition!

None of us had ever stomped grapes, but Justin was determined to win. After his pep talks in the car and a game plan derived from watching YouTube videos, we were ready an intense 5 minutes of grape stomping action!

The end result was victory against eleven other teams (by a full 2 fl.oz over 2nd place) as well as a prize for longest distance traveled. Prize baskets of cool schwag and wines grown at Champoux from the likes of Quilceda Creek, Sineann and Three Rivers were scored...

The winning effort (pardon the poor audio)



The Loot-

Some recent tastings of Champoux wines-

-Fidelitas 2008 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills- Tasting room visit 9/10. Notes of cedar, tobacco, anise, cassis, spice and mineral on the nose. Palate of blue and red fruit with a backdrop of mineral, cedar and spice. Silky round tannins and a long finish of fruit and spice. (I really like!)

-Sineann 2007 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills- Decanted for an hour. Dense and dark color with lightening garnet edges. Aromas of violet, gingerbread, red & black currant. Dense and tight hitting the palate; it opens up to notes of clove & cinnamon-flavored tea, red cherry & currant, and leathery-peppery-vanilla. Bright and full-flavored and developing through the palate. Plush feel with dusty tannins and a large lingering finish (I like!)

-Sineann 2006 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills- 375ml, opened for 2 hours without a decant. A dense dark garnet color. Notes of slate, cinnamon, curry and red fruit on the bouquet. Glassy smooth with strong hot flavors of cinnamon spice and baked red fruit. Some coffee and cedar backing notes that are mostly overshadowed. Peppery spicy round tannins and a sweet port-like finish. Some nice parts, but the sum is a hot mess.

2011- Sans Blog

Damn... what happened? The last time I posted the blog was called "Wineheimer" and it was September of 2010. It's been crazy busy since then with a wine sales job taking most of my time and energy.

2012 will bring a new location and hopefully the time and energy to post again. I'm relocating to Santa Barbara CA, and hopefully will be posting wine blogs in the new location from a new perspective. I'm no longer in the wine business, so I feel comfortable relaunching the blog from the perspective of a wine enthusiast and overall superfan!

In the meantime I'm posting a photo recap of my highlights of 2011.  The links below are photos from my vineyard travels of 2011... Santa Barbara, Paso Robles, Monterey, Napa, Sonoma, Willamette Valley, Columbia Valley. If you like vineyard pictures ad nauseum you'll want to check these out.

SANTA BARBARA 2011

PASO ROBLES 2011

MONTEREY, SAN BENITO, SANTA CRUZ

NAPA VALLEY

SONOMA COUNTY

MORE NAPA VALLEY

WILLAMETTE VALLEY 1

WILLAMETTE VALLEY 2

WALLA WALLA VALLEY

CHATEAU CHAMPOUX (please note that my team won the grape stomping championship!) and RED MOUNTAIN

Red Teeth on Red Mountain- A Visit to the Red Mountain AVA

People in the know about Washington wine often call Red Mountain the "crown jewel" of Washington AVA's. Last month I attended the Wine Bloggers Conference post-conference excursion to the Red Mountain AVA. The Red Mountain vintners and growers who hosted my group set out to make us believe it.

Red Mountain is located just east of the Yakima Valley AVA, and just north of the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. It's the smallest of Washington's AVA's, distinguished by it's tributary (Yakima River), its sand and clay silt loam soils left from ice age glacial floods, and its gentle slope up the 1400 foot Red Mountain. The weather is high desert climate; with only 4 to 6 inches of rain a year, hot summer days, moderating breezes, cool evenings, and a long growing season. All these factors combine to create a terroir well-suited for the Bordeaux red varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as Rhone varietals such as Syrah.

After meeting the group at Terra Blanca Winery, we headed up the slope to Col Solare. Col Solare is an instant classic of a wine estate; founded in 1992 as a partnership between Chateau Ste Michelle and the Antinori family of Tuscany. It produces one of Washington's preeminent wines. Col Solare's red wine, a blend of mostly Bordeaux varietals with just a touch of Syrah, is sourced from top vineyards throughout Red Mountain, Columbia Valley, Wahluke Slope, and Horse Heaven Hills- including Col Solare's Red Mountain estate vineyard.

The modern and stately winery is beautifully situated toward the top of the Red Mountain slope. It overlooks the Red Mountain AVA below as well as the Horse Heaven Hills in the distance. We listened to the story of the winery on the patio overlooking the vineyards, then headed into the aging cellars to taste the 2006 Col Solare, Columbia Valley ($80). Aged in 100% new French (75%) and American (25%) oak, the 2006 is a wine of great beauty, finesse, and seamless structure. It is marked by mineral, cherry, and spice aromas; and beautiful lush black fruit, spice, and vanilla across the palate. Lush and rich in tannic structure, this is a stunner that I'd love to watch develop over time. As an added bonus, we tasted the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon component for the blend from barrel- a promising preview...

After the tasting, we hiked through the vineyards and down the slope to Hedges Cellars. Learning along the way about some of the prevailing viticultural philosophies of Red Mountain growers (covered later at Ciel Du Cheval Vineyard).

Finally, at Hedges Cellars, we were greeted by Christophe Hedges. Christophe, the national sales manager, expressed strong opinions to the group about the importance and distinction of estate wines- grown and produced. He talked with conviction about his belief in Red Mountain as unique terroir, and about how Hedges strives to maintain this in their wines. He tied in the role of critics and wine ratings to diminishing the unique terroir of places like Red Mountain and other areas throughout the wine world.

From there, we headed into the aging cellars to taste Red Mountain wines side by side with landmark wines from other famous regions. The pairings included:

~2007 Obolisco Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain with 2007 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- comparing the former's leafy savory fruit elegance with the latter's powerfully lush structure and rich dark spicy fruit. Two different expressions of Cabernet, both excellent wines.

~2008 Descendant's Liegeois Dupont Syrah, Red Mountain with 2008 Kaesler Shiraz, Barossa Valley- comparing the former's musky & gamey tobacco and fruit with the latter's lush black fruit and sweet spice. Distinctly different Syrah/Shiraz with great results.

~2006 Hedges Family Estate, Red Mountain with 2006 Chateau Talbot, St-Julien- comparing the gamey black fruit & musky herb/spice notes & silky minty structure of the former with the latter's dusty tobacco and spice & mineral fruit. An incredible comparison, both great wines.

~2006 Goedhart Family Bel' Villa Syrah, Red Mountain with 2006 René Rostaing, Côte Rôtie- both exhibiting a wild and free gaminess along with brambly fruit, tea, and mineral- along with various spice accents. What a couple of magical Syrahs!

Lesson learned- the wines of Red Mountain stand toe to toe with world class wines from more famous regions. If there's an identifier of Red Mountain that I'm picking up at this point of the day, it's fine structure and elegance... and ripe fruit delivered deftly yet powerfully. This was the common thread that I picked up from Red Mountain on this day.

From there we were off, just down the way, to the famous Ciel Du Cheval Vineyard. Originally developed in 1975 and planted with Riesling, Chadonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon; Ciel Du Cheval is now most known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Its wines have averaged 92 point scores from major publications over the last 5 years.

We were greeted by owner, Jim Holmes. Mr. Holmes talked about his philosophies on vineyard and people management. The vineyard workers don't work when the temperature hits 95 degrees. He practices his own brand of sustainable farming, deeming sulfur sprays as harmful to the soil, his people, and surrounding lands (sulfur is approved for use in organic farming). They don't change the soil composition by introducing organic compounds and composts. And the vineyards is developing alternatives to use of artificial fertilizers. We then got our hands dirty with the soil, learning how to distinguish the different types of soil by how it responds to moisture.

Such Washington luminaries as Quilceda Creek, Andrew Will, and Januik make wines from Ciel Du Cheval.

Finally, it was back to Terra Blanca Winery. Located toward the bottom of the Red Mountain slope, Terra Blanca is a grand setting for a winery. It's set among its vineyards with grand views of the Horse Heaven Hills. Proprietors Keith and Renae Pilgrim led us into the cellar for a vertical tasting of Terra Blanca's Onyx- a Bordeaux blend from their Red Mountain estate vineyards. We tasted the 2006, 2001, and 1999- all very enjoyable with savory, spicy, minerals, and earthy depth; and laced with lush refined fruit and elegance. The older two wines very much exhibiting and enhanced depth and silky feel.

From there it was on to a grand tasting of Red Mountain wines from various vintners, and then a Spanish-style barbecue dinner on the patio of Terra Blanca overlooking the Horse Heaven Hills at sunset.

What a wonderful day, complete with great wines and great learning about this beautiful area of Washington. This was a wonderful close to my time in Pacific Northwest wine country. For more pictures of the Red Mountain AVA, click the link.

Alla Walla Walla

With last month's Wine Bloggers Conference in Walla Walla, WA; the local wine community rolled out the red carpet in a big way. Friday night featured a downtown walkabout, with all of the downtown tasting rooms open and pouring.

Saturday morning brought a seminar on Walla Walla terroir with geologist Kevin Pogue. The seminar centered around many factors that are key to the success of Walla Walla wines. The ice ages and the Great Missoula Floods left silt soils rich in minerals. The high desert climate and it's bitter cold winters has kept out phylloxera, allowing Walla Walla's vines to remain ungrafted. The northerly latitude and warm summers allow for a long growing season, with plenty of radiant sunshine to the vines. Conversely, the cool nights keep acids high enough and allows for even ripening. Finally, the dry weather allows for consistent vintages due to the predictable amounts of water to the vines. These are notable built-in advantages that have helped Walla Walla (and many other areas of Washington for that matter) come into its own as a wine growing region.

The seminar concluded and we were off to tour vineyards and wineries in Walla Walla. Our exact destinations were unknown, as we randomly choose school buses to board with various destinations.

Les Collines Vineyard

I boarded a bus that started at Les Collines Vineyard for a vineyard tour and tasting. Les Collines is a leading vineyard in Walla Walla. Our hosts were vineyard founder and Amavi Cellars vintner Norm McKibben, and Brandon Moss from Gramercy Cellars. Les Collines features 240 acres of vines in the southeast of the Walla Walla AVA. With more rain in the eastern foothills of Walla Walla, this is one of the wettest vineyard areas in Eastern Washington, albeit with only about 24 inches a year. The vineyard is less reliant upon irrigation than other nearby areas, with only light irrigation in August. Les Collines is certified sustainable, practicing minimal input farming and a self composting operation. Vineyard practices include meticulous pruning, shoot thinning, green harvesting, and control of soil moisture. The three primary grapes grown here are Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah,
and Merlot.

We took a walk through the vineyard, with Norm pointing out their shoot positioning and the stage of berry set on the vines. The vineyard is stunningly beautiful, and in the prettiest area of Walla Walla that I saw over the course of the weekend. It was a stark and desolate beauty; located next to wheat fields, and spread across gently rolling hills, with expansive views of the surrounding foothills.

The Wines-

Finally it was time for the real treat. We tasted three wines made from Les Collines grapes.

~2007 Amavi Cellars Les Collines Syrah, Walla Walla- Aged 16 months in 20% new French oak. Rich in the glass with gamey fruit, olive, and savory herb aromas. Lush and smooth on the palate with black fruit, leather, pepper, and mint; and a dusty gripping structure and finish---excellent---$34.

~2006 Gramercy Cellars Tempranillo, Walla Walla- Tempranillo, Grenache, and Syrah. Soft floral and mineral accented by the fruit. Drinks nice and elegant with red fruit, coffee, & earthen spice. Silky with spicy tannins and nice length---very good to excellent---$40.

~2008 Gramercy Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla- The nose held aromas of violets, cured meat, black olive, pepper- accented with subtle fruit. On the palate the fruit came to life with notes of lush blueberry, while carrying through the depth of the nose, before finishing with peppery tannins and a long finish---excellent---$42.

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Panel discussion at Reininger Winery

The second stop on our tour was at Reininger Winery. On the way there, our bus driver nearly caused an accident as we pulled right out in front of oncoming cars. A honk and a bird later, we made it in one piece to Reininger! There, we sat for a panel discussion with Chuck Reininger, Ron Coleman of Tamarack Cellars, and Mike Tembreull of Tero Estates. It was an interesting discussion with questions and input from our group.

Some of the things that were discussed included: the relative ease of doing business in Walla Walla compared to California wine regions (and how that has helped the area's development as a wine region); the evolution of the AVA- they are still discovering what grapes and practices work best; and what wines should be the identity of the AVA.

The Wines-

We tasted a wine from each of the vintners in attendance.

~1999 Reininger CIMA, Walla Walla- Sangiovese, Cab Sauv, and Merlot. Very dark in color with brick highlights. The nose reminded me of chocolate covered cherries, along with hints of earth. The cherry was riper and more prevalent upon drinking, with hints of coffee, tobacco, and cocoa. Silky with smooth loose tannins. Nice, seemed a little past its peak---good to very good---$? (no longer available)

~2008 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley- Deep garnet color with aromas of dried herbs & violets, vanilla, and minerally red fruit. Lots of red fruit on the palate with backing spice and pepper. Silky and creamy tannins and spice on the finish---very good---$28.

~2007 Tero Estates Windrow, Walla Walla- Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec- harvested at the same time and fermented as a field blend. Aged in 500L oak puncheons. Meant to be a precise representation of the vineyard at a particular moment in time. Aromas of mineral, black cherry, pipe tobacco, and coffee- with the addition of caramel, black fruit, and light spice on the palate. Supple structure with opulent tannins---very good---$42.

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Northstar Winery

The final stop of the day was for a lunch and private tour at Northstar Winery with winemaker David "Merf" Merfeld. Northstar is Chateau Ste. Michelle's Walla Walla property, and is in the south of the AVA. They've set out to highlight the potential of Merlot in Walla Walla and the Columbia Valley, making big Merlot wines with lots of oak character and firm structure. Northstar is a large-scale winery with full visitor amenities.

The Wines-

~2006 Merlot, Walla Walla- 78% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cab Franc. Aged 17 months in 56% new French oak. Big and unctuous with lots of cocoa, coffee, and black fruit- oak driven. May need some time for the oak to integrate further---good---$50.

~2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley- 76% Merlot, 19% Cab Sauv, with Petite Verdot & Cab Franc. Aged 18 months in 70% French & 30% American oak (total 65% new). Savory black fruit and notes of spice- with hints of mineral, spice, black fruit, and integrated espresso oak notes. Well structured and firm---very good to excellent---$41.

Not available on their website, we also tasted the 2005 Columbia Valley Syrah, and the 2006 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet was my favorite wine of the visit; with plenty of leather, cedar, red & black fruits, spice, and tobacco- all with peppery firm tannins---very good to excellent.

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Being a younger region, and without the high profile of the California wine regions, an AVA like Walla Walla is one that I previously viewed from the periphery. Knowing some of the benchmark wines, but not really knowing Walla Walla. This was a great indoctrination, and one that I'll look forward to exploring further in the future.

Click the link for all Walla Walla photos.

A Visit To K Vintners

Seeking a quick sabbatical from the Wine Bloggers Conference, I headed west of downtown Walla Walla to visit the venerable K Vintners. K is one of Charles Smith's three primary brands, along with Charles Smith Wines and The Magnificent Wine Company. The story is well known- Smith comes from Northern California via Europe, where he managed rock bands. He somehow ended up in Walla Walla, WA as a rock star winemaker, both literally and figuratively. He's famous for Washington Syrah, mostly from the Walla Walla Valley and the Wahluke Slope.

His branding, modernist and surreal, is iconic. Fortunately his wines walk the walk. K Vintners and Charles Smith wines are not only among the most highly regarded domestic Syrah; they've established themselves among the most highly regarded domestic wines period. Smith's Syrah wines have been rated consistently in the classic range in the Wine Advocate and in Wine Enthusiast. Aside from high-end Syrah, Smith's more value oriented brands such as The Magnificent Wine Company's House Wines and Charles Smith Wines' Kung Fu Girl Riesling bring style and value to everyday wine drinking.

The K Vintners winery and tasting room is located inauspiciously among the Phil Lane estate vineyard in Walla Walla. It's marked by a life-sized "K" along the road. There's farm pasture land across the street, with curious cattle that scampered off when I walked up to take a picture. With an old farm house, quaint vineyards, tall trees, and the winery in a old barn off to the side; the setting reminded me of the rolling Midwestern farm land that David Lynch brought to life in "The Straight Story" film.

The tasting room further reminded me of surreal themes of David Lynch- stark and mostly bare with concrete-colored walls... tiny little windows into the barrel room cut in asymmetrical patterns... the wines laid out on a bare antique table accompanied by a lone candle... a random assortment of weird tunes blasting from behind a mysterious black door... and my host sitting on a tiny little chair behind the table. The scene tied the cinematic and surreal influence on K together for me. As great as the wines are, every little nuance of the overall aesthetic is part of the show.

-The Wines



Per their technical information- K foot-crushes their fruit, ferments with only native yeasts, manually punches down, uses basket presses, and are aged in French Burgundy barrels.

~2009 Viognier, Columbia Valley- Barrel fermented in neutral barrels. Rocky and floral aromas flushed with stone fruit. Lush on the palate with peach, honey, apple, and apricot. Crisp and balanced---very good---$20.

~2008 "Milbrandt" Syrah, Wahluke Slope- 90% Sundance and 10% Pheasant Vineyards, sustainably farmed and owned by the Milbrandt brothers. Unfined. Floral notes with leathery spice and red fruit. Gamey on the palate with earthy red and blue fruit notes, layed over a spicy structure and finish---very good to excellent---$25.

~2008 "Clifton" Syrah, Wahluke Slope- Another vineyards owned and sustainably farmed by the Milbrandt brothers. Unfined. Cured meats, leather, baking spice leading into brambly red and black fruits. There's a spicy rich structure, tightly wound, leading into a full silky finish---excellent---$35.

~2007 "Phil Lane" Syrah, Walla Walla- From the sustainably-farmed estate vineyard in Walla Walla. Cobbley loam soil with vines trained low to the ground. Large brambly fruit on the nose with smoked meat and pepper. Lush fruit, black pepper, black olive, and spice- firm with a beautiful finish. This one could be special---excellent to stellar---$70.