Food and wine night at Succulent Café

A recent dinner at stellar Solvang CA restaurant, Succulent Café, provided an opportunity to catch a glimpse of the Calluna Vineyards 2009 Culluna Vineyards Cuvée. I've been a fan of this newer Chalk Hill producer for a couple of years. Chalk Hill in Sonoma County, being cooler than either Napa/Calistoga to the east or Alexander Valley to the north, can provide an opportunity for enhanced structure and elegance in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wines.

Calluna Vineyards 2009 Calluna Vineyards Cuvée, Chalk Hill is an estate-grown right bank-style Bordeaux blend featuring Merlot & Cabernet Franc as the primary varietals, with barrel aging in about 40% new French oak. It's a great representation of Calluna's very classically-styled Bordeaux varietal wines. With dinner it showed very well, quickly coming to life with notes of violet, red currant, olive, cocoa, spice and mint throughout the palate- deftly balanced and highlighting the floral and red fruit notes. Polished with fine/firm tannin and a full finish. Excellent overall and even better for the price (selling for around $30), with the structure suggesting longevity (Rating- I like+!).

A word about Succulent Café- it's beautifully done low-key farm-to-table cuisine; French technique and southern influenced. A wonderful cheese plate with fresh local ingredients and main courses of braised short rib and duck confit cassoulet accompanied the wine. The restaurant does charge a corkage, but after offering our server some of the Calluna he responded very kindly by opening up two interesting local wines to taste.

Both of the local wines were Bordeaux varietal wines from Santa Barbara County. The first was Cuatro Vientos Vineyard 2009 "CS/CF", Santa Barbara County- a Cab Sauv/Cab Franc blend. It was a lush blend of fig paste, dates, anise and spice- with round and ripe blue & red fruit and secondary notes of toffee & chocolate along with round full tannins (rating- I like!). This seemed more influenced by the Cab Franc, showing a nice ripeness and depth without the trappings of overly green notes that Santa Barbara County Cabs and Cab Francs can sometimes have. I believe this wine is made by Margerum Wine Company, but I couldn't find any info online.

The second wine was Baehner Fournier 2009 Petit Verdot, Santa Ynez Valley. Baehner Fournier grows Bordeaux varietals in the eastern hills of the Santa Ynez Valley. The Petit Verdot sells for $42 with only 58 cases bottled. It started with aromas of brioche, cassis and slight notes of bell pepper. The palate added dried herb, spice and currant before finishing with round and firm tannin and ample finishing notes of sagebrush and spice (rating- I like!). Enjoyable and interesting indeed- would love to have some more time with this one.

2005 Chateau Fombrauge

I recently was the recipient of an email from Green's, a large beverage retailer in Atlanta. They had secured a great deal on a few 2005 Bordeaux as the wholesaler was reducing inventory. Some of the available wines originally were priced in the $50 price range, but were on sale for more than half off. One of them was the 2005 Château Fombrauge Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.

Picking this up for $24.99, there was no guilt about opening it early and partaking in the great 2005 Bordeaux vintage for Valentine's Day. Dinner was at 10 Degrees South in Buckhead, a great little spot serving South African-influenced cuisine. (see yelp review here). The corkage fee was very fair and the sommelier provided great service. With my wife's filet in a peppercorn cream sauce and my rack of lamb, the wine was a good overall fit with dinner.

As for details of the wine- it gets 18 months in oak; is 77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon; and the AbV is 14.5%. In the glass it is a highly extracted black-ruby color with full body. Light notes in the nose of blueberry, creme de cassis, vanillin, and oak. Blueberry and pencil shavings open on the front palate with full flavors of cedar, espresso, dried herbs, and leather in the middle, accompanied by secondary notes of dark fruit and chocolate. It finishes with coffee and black cherry with very firm tannins. It's tight but has good structure and a broad range of integrated flavors. Very nice- the complexity is very pleasurable, and with time to brighten the fruit this can reach an even higher level. Very respectable at its original price point, and quite a find at $24.99.

I've had good luck with wine store email lists; it's a great way to shop for wine. You never know what's coming down the pike next... Here's to great food and wine on Valentine's Day!

**On a side note, I'd like to thank the State of Georgia for passing the law that allows consumers to take open bottles of wine home from restaurants. It's consumer and business friendly while promoting responsible drinking.

Purchased at Green's