Three sides of Sonoma

There are many things to love about Sonoma County wine, and variety is definitely one of them. It was the theme of the final day of wine tasting in California’s North Coast regions in April 2013. We visited three very different producers – beginning in Santa Rosa at the Punchdown Cellars facility to visit Ceritas Wines, on to Chalk Hill and Calluna Vineyards, and finally into the heart of the Russian River Valley to Scherrer Winery in Sebastopol.

Ceritas Wines is the brainchild of John Raytek and Phoebe Bass. Their mission is to produce site-specific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir most notably from the family vineyard – The Porter Bass Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, just 8 miles inland in Forestville. There the vineyard rolls along slopes situated between ridge lines, benefiting from gentle fog, bright sunshine and cool nights. They sort grapes in the vineyard prior to harvest. In the cellar fermentation begins naturally without inoculation, and the wines are made without acid-addition. They avoid a cold-soak of the Pinot Noir, and ferment with 25% to 75% whole clusters.

Ceritas

We tasted three 2011 releases, as well as two barrel samples of 2012 Pinot Noir. My standouts included the 2011 Ceritas Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, which shined with bright citrus and floral notes, along with underlying depth of earthy minerals and dried herb – showing a dynamically rich structure with plenty of nervy tension. Very nice. The 2011 Ceritas Coastalina Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast showed clean tart fig and raspberry flavors along with deep notes of pine needle, tea leaf, and earth and brown spice – fine, silky, vibrant and complex. The 2012 Ceritas Porter Bass Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast from barrel was deeper and darker with black cherry and fig notes along with earth, forest, and savory spice that framed beautiful high-toned juicy mineral notes through the palate.

Calluna Vineyards

I first wrote about Calluna Vineyards after a visit three years ago. The vineyard was planted by David Jeffrey in 2003, and his moderately cool-climate site for Bordeaux varietals is producing balanced, powerful, and graceful wines – full of pleasure and sophistication. We tasted the current 2009 and 2010 releases.

Jon and I in the vineyard with David Jeffrey (photo by Justin)

My favorite was the 2010 Calluna ‘Aux Raynauds’ Merlot, Chalk Hill – showing plenty of mineral, floral, cedar, lead and leather sophistication, along with ripe currant fruit, all seamlessly layered and velvety on the palate, and finishing with plenty of brightness and firmness. What an awesome wine, it really shows the seriousness and sophistication that Merlot is capable of in California. I also really liked 2009 Calluna Vineyards Estate, Chalk Hill – this is a blend of the five Bordeaux varietals featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot most prominently in the blend. This showed cassis and currants, with tea, floral, cedar, tobacco and black pepper notes, layered with big supple/firm tannins and juicy acidity on the finish. Also, look for the relative value of the 2010 Calluna ‘CVC’ CallunaVineyards Cuvee, Chalk Hill. This is another Bordeaux blend, that shows really well at a lower price point.

Scherrer Winery is located in an old warehouse building out on the far side of Sebastopol. Fred Scherrer produces wines from his family’s estate vineyard in Alexander Valley, as well as from numerous other sites in Sonoma County. It’s not a program that focuses solely on Bordeaux, Burgundy or Rhone varietals – instead it’s all of the above, along with Zinfandel too. Fred built production through the late 1980’s while working at Dehlinger Winery, finally moving into his own facility in 1997. Today production is between 4000 and 5000 cases. Fred’s winemaking philosophy often centers on minimal handling and non-interventionist techniques, and varies by varietal.

Fred Scherrer pouring for Justin

We tasted through a broad range of wine, with favorites ranging from the 2009 Scherrer Old Vine Scherrer Vineyard Zinfandel, Alexander Valley – a broad and brambly dark fruited Zinfandel with lots of cola, spice and cedar depth, polished and rustic with a nice finish. A trio of 2008 Pinot Noirs shined- 2008 Scherrer Pinot Noir, Sonoma County and 2008 Scherrer Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley both showed nice, forward, spice-laden red fruit with earthy rhubarb notes. The 2008 Scherrer Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast showed similar flavors with more depth and a more bracing structure. A 2005 Scherrer Cabernet Sauvignon Scherrer Vineyard, Alexander Valley showed the warm friendly dark fruit of Alexander Valley with plenty of cedar, leather, dried herb, and vanilla notes, along with a rustic feel and sweet ripe tannins. Finally, the sleeper of the lineup was the 2008 ScherrerTimbervine Vineyard Syrah, Russian River Valley – showing beautiful crushed rock, tobacco and cedar, along with robust blackberry and savory earth on the palate. Elegant and balanced and very nice.

In many ways Scherrer’s wines embody Sonoma County. Not just in the variety and flavors in the bottle, but also in the down-to-earth workmanlike aesthetic of Fred and the winery. Fred’s even got a band room off to the side in the winery – jammed full of big amps and drums and guitars.

This was a fine lineup of three very different producers - click here to see all tasting notes from the day. It’s always a little sad to leave Sonoma County. Until next time!

From Boonfly to Buster's- Napa Valley day two

The second day of Napa Valley April 2013 began much differently than the first. Rather than the twists and turns of a mountain road, we rolled into a Napa industrial park to taste the wines of Buccella before heading up the valley. Each visit very different from the last.

Jon contemplating a non-sequitur

Founded in 2002, Buccella highlights the sleek and luxurious side of Napa Valley. Its wines blend fruit from vineyards in the southerly AVA’s, highlighting the cooler Yountville and Coombsville regions. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, these are in barrel for 20 months in new French oak. The winemaker is Rebekah Wineburg, with consulting by Celia Welch. We tasted the three 2010 releases with Rebekah – all noteworthy for their overall boldness and richness, and underscored by a velvety feel of pure luxury on the palate.

Justin & Jon with Rebekah Wineburg in the winery at Buccella

The 2010 Buccella Merlot, Napa Valley comes primarily from Hyde Vineyard fruit and includes 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. The notes were leathery-floral black cherry, adding a mélange of spice, coffee and tea depth on the palate. This was remarkably silky and seamlessly layered with polished tannins, along with beautiful weight, feel, and depth. The 2010 Buccella Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley is 86% Cab with the balance a blend of the remaining Bordeaux varietals. This showed similarly seamless layers of polish and bold elegance, adding in more densely packed savory notes of graphite, vanilla bean, roasted espresso, and black olive – along with red currant and cherry fruit – a strikingly beautiful young wine. Last, the 2010 Buccella Cuvée Katrina Eileen is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with a bigger denser structure set apart by mineral, floral and darker fruit notes, on top of cedar and savory spice notes. A little bigger and broader tannins on this wine, along with consistent elegance and polish. The wines of Buccella are unmistakably modern and decadent, while showing great elegance and beauty.

At Rutherford Grove Winery (photo by Justin)

Rutherford Grove lies along the busy Highway 29 corridor heading up into St. Helena. The winery and its ownership, the Pestoni family, have a long history in Napa Valley. It’s an interesting place, in that judging by the looks of its facility and packaging I might have thought the production was much larger and more widely distributed than it is - it has the look of a bigger brand. In reality it’s only about a 5000 case production, spread across several bottlings and sold primarily out of the tasting room. All of the wines are estate-grown, coming from 60 acres of vineyards spread through the Rutherford, St. Helena, Howell Mountain, and Lake County AVA’s. Interestingly, there’s also a huge Pestoni-owned composting facility behind the winery.

At Rutherford Grove

The lineup of wines ranged from Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah – then on to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. My highlights included the 2011 Rutherford Grove Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, Rutherford - from the Musque clone, showing a grassy kiwi profile with nice and bright mineral/slate high tones. The 2008 Rutherford Grove Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Rutherford showed nice cedar and earth notes throughout with savory dark fruit draped in tobacco leaf and leathery depth on the palate, along with nice supple tannins- really good as a young drinking Rutherford Cab with nice flavors, balance & depth, and a good price. I also really liked the 2007 Rutherford Grove Petite Sirah Spring Creek Vineyard, Napa Valley, St. Helena for its big wild dark fruit and integrated savory depth, along a large structure- very nice.

Tucked away in the Diamond Mountain district near Calistoga, Von Strasser Winery was founded in 1990. In 1985 Rudy Von Strasser became the first American to intern at Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, moving on to stints at Trefethen and Newton prior to launching Von Strasser. The winery is located on a historic winery property, part of which was parceled off to become the Diamond Creek vineyards. Von Strasser ended up modernizing the facility and digging caves into the hillside.

At Von Strasser, Diamond Mountain

The Von Strasser wines are primarily single vineyard Diamond Mountain Cabernet. Stylistically these bridged a gap between the brawny fruit and firm structure you might find on Spring Mountain, and the rich polished wines of the valley floor. Throughout the lineup I really liked the dynamic of elegant and subtle flavors with rich fruit over deceptively powerful structures. We tasted four single vineyard wines from the 2009 vintage – all of which I thought were outstanding.

Choosing a top 2- the 2009 Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Post Vineyard, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain showed aromas of vanilla, clove, blackcurrant and red-floral with a complex palate – mineral, juicy cherry, violet, with subtle savory depth – well-integrated with fine polished tannins and a big juicy finish. The 2009 Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon Sori Bricco Vineyard, Napa Valley ,Diamond Mountain showed nice lightly sweet aromas of vanilla, anise, spice, cassis and butterscotch. The palate was richly opulent, yet elegant, with notes of blackcurrant, mineral, floral, subtle spice and earthy depth. It finished big with silky-firm tannins. Luxurious and layered- excellent.

View of Kronos Vineyard

Last stop was a refresher visit to Corison Winery. I visited Corison in July 2012 and tasted a very nice assortment of Cathy Corison’s Napa Valley and Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons (new and library releases). This time around I wanted to show my travel companions the wines, so we visited and tasted through a similarly special lineup. Click the link for my 2012 comments on visiting the winery.

"Fly is Open!"- Thanks to tasting room staff at Corison!

Stay tuned for thoughts on the rest of the April 2013 trip. We spent the rest of the weekend in Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. Click here for a full list of tasting notes on Buccella, Rutherford Grove, Von Strasser and Corison.  

Tasting highlights- Garagiste Festival, Southern Exposure

Southern Exposure, the Garagiste Festival previewed last month, was an exciting and eclectic mix of Santa Barbara County wineries. Ranging from the small and well-known to the smaller and more obscure, the festival grand tasting provided a one-stop shop opportunity for exposure to new Santa Barbara wineries and vineyards.

Among the new and interesting favorites were Altman Winery. The winery is so small that the website is a Wordpress blog and I had to manually input the wines on Cellartracker. Proprietor Mike Altman produces a pleasant and inexpensive Santa Ynez Valley Chardonnay and Rosé, but what really shined was a pair of Petite Sirahs from the Sunset Ridge vineyard in Paso Robles. Both the 2008 and 2009 Altman Petite Sirah Sunset Ridge showed bright wild blue fruit, violet, and tangy mineral notes - with the 2009 adding firm complexity to the structure.

Baehner Fournier Vineyards is located in the eastern hills of the Santa Ynez Valley. The Baehners decided to plant Bordeaux varietals on their property and are now bottling quality Santa Ynez Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot from hillside fruit. Their 2010 Baehner Fournier Estate Merlot is grown in gravely clay on sloping northeast-facing blocks. The wine is cold-soaked and fermented in small open-top fermenters with aging for 19 months in 20% new French oak. It's got a pleasing leathery cedary blueberry nose, with balance and layers of flavor, and lingering polish on the finish.

Living near the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, I often drive by the Kessler-Haak vineyard. Planted in 2005 and next to Clos Pepe, it's an organically farmed vineyard on rolling hillsides and sandy loam soils. I had yet to try their wines, but it's a no-brainer that the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay would be as good as they were. I enjoyed the entire lineup, with the highlight being the 2010 Kessler-Haak Vineyards Pinot Noir Clone 2a. It towed the line between brooding dark fruit & earth, with brighter mineral and floral notes building tension and complexity- a very nice wine. With the vineyard at only 8 years of age, it will be fun to watch these Pinot Noirs develop complexities in future vintages.

Josh Klapper's La Fenêtre Wines come from multiple vineyard sites throughout Santa Barbara County. The specialty is bright and elegant Burgundian Varietals, along with Syrah. Josh's Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from Santa Maria Valley were shining on this day. The 2010 La Fenêtre Chardonnay Bien Nacido shows beautifully bright lime and slate notes that counter a subtle toastiness. The 2010 La Fenêtre Pinot Noir Presqu'ile shows depth with rich dark fruit notes complimenting the floral earth and cherry elegance. One of the biggest and baddest Syrahs that I tasted at the event was the 2009 La Fenêtre Syrah Z Block Bien Nacido, showing wet-earth, sandalwood, cured meat and black currant, highlighted a bright mineral-acid streak and stitched together with huge structure- epic stuff.

Long a key vineyard in the new Ballard Canyon AVA, Larner Vineyard began producing its namesake wines in 2009. Ballard Canyon is known primarily for richly elegant Syrah and other Rhone varietals grown in the moderately cool hillside slopes in the center of the Santa Ynez Valley. The 2009 Larner Vineyard Elemental, a Grenache/Syrah blend, is hugely deep and expressive with mint, cherry, blueberry, earth and spice notes - quite a beautiful wine. The 2009 Larner Vineyard Syrah shows beautiful mineral, earth and floral notes that compliment the spice laden dark fruit. 

These aforementioned highlights capped off an enjoyable day of new Santa Barbara wine discoveries. Click here for a full list of 33 wines tasted at the event.

The best of the rest

I try to do more than just blog tasting notes, but I've amassed a few over the past month on wines I've not otherwise blogged about. Several of the wines are very nice, so I thought I’d combat writer’s block by dedicating a post to these notes!

~Arrowood 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve Spéciale, SonomaCounty – Aromas of plum, earth-slate, and currant with deep black fruit on the palate with tobacco, cedar, and blue-floral notes. It’s balanced and rich with round polished tannins and a full finish. Nicely developed and still tastes young. $68.

~Cakebread 2009 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Touches of mineral, honey and butterscotch, along with stone fruit. It adds subtle notes of citrus on the palate, with polished feel, good acid, solid structure, and a decent finish. Drinking well. $38.

One of the highlights

~Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley – Popped and poured with Thanksgiving leftovers. Clear ruby and medium body in the glass. Aromas of black tea leaf, red curry, sandalwood and fresh fig. Beautifully expressive palate of open red fruit, melted stone, red florals and flourishes of spice. It’s polished in feel, elegant, and fleshy throughout with balanced acid and fine tannin. It finishes long with nice black peppery fruit. Excellent, really drinking well right now. $38.

~Firestone 2010 Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County – Nicely expressive strawberry and cherry fruit throughout with subtle spice and earthy depth. Silky and rich with elegance, roundly structured with good acid-tannin balance. Decent finish. Very good value. $24

~Firestone 2009 Malbec, Santa Ynez Valley – Black and blue fruits dominate with secondary black peppery notes and hints of oak. Full fruit, round on the palate, easy drinking style with fleshy tannins. Good. $24.

Firestone Vineyard in the Fall

~Firestone 2007 Chairman Series Merlot, Santa Ynez Valley – Cedar and leather on the nose draping the fruit. The flavors are black cherry and blackberry with subtle oaky vanilla and mocha notes along with hints of dried herb. Dry firm finish with decent length. Nicely done. $42.

~Firestone 2009 Chairman Series Cabernet Sauvignon, SantaYnez Valley – Plenty of cassis and currant aromas along with dried herb. Cassis and red fruit flavors on the palate nicely integrated with subtle medicinal herb along with oak notes of cedar and espresso. Fine firm tannin and a full finish. Very good. $42.

This big boy needs a little time and TLC!

~Firestone 2009 Proximity Twenty Six, Santa Ynez Valley – Bordeaux blend- mostly Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Red currant, cedar, cherry and licorice are on the bouquet. There’s tons of oak on the palate, with flavors of coffee and cedar with currant, cassis and brown spice. Round and lush with silky tannins and a spicy long finish. It needs time for the oak to resolve. $75.

~Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs – Tasting out of Bordeaux glass so not a great display for the bubbles. Plenty of yeast, toast and brioche notes on the nose. It’s bright with lively citrus on the palate with mineral notes to accent the bready yeasty depth. Slightly honeyed flavors with a deep and long expansive finish. Excellent. $230.

~Tenuta Sant’Antonio Scaia, Veneto IGT – Garganega/Chardonnay. Light straw color. It’s very Sauv Blanc-like on both the nose and palate with tons of gooseberry and grapefruit and very subtle depth. Round and bright on the palate with full body and a crispness to the finish. This is a bright and pleasant casual drinker with an odd similarity to new-world Sauvignon Blanc. $12.

~Sea Smoke 2010 Southing Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills – Aromas of rhubarb, earth and plummy fruit. Well balanced on the palate, showing nice mineral, earth, tea, and dark floral notes that temper the darker fruit. Silky feel on the palate with sharp acid and fine tannins. Medium-long finish. Nice complexity. Very well done. $60.

~Siduri 2010 Sonatera Vineyard, Sonoma Coast – Popped and poured with dinner. Nice bouquet of tea leaf, wild mushroom, white pepper, Christmas spice and cherry fruit. It’s ripe and aggressive to the palate with black cherry and fig jam along with piney, earthy and herbal depth. Fine and polished in tannin with seemingly good acid and a decent finish, it's just not very graceful or balanced with this tasting. The fruit awkwardly sticks out like a sore thumb. Not how I remembered it, perhaps it just needs some time to mature back into balance. Day 2- Much improved with the fruit integrating and adding nuances of cedar and sandalwood. Shows balance and elegance. Nice mouthwatering acidity and fine tannin on the finish. Good on the second day- air it out before drinking or hold. $48

~Silverado 2006 Merlot, Napa Valley – Notes of cigar box, black currant and leather on the nose. This is densely structured palate of cassis, cedar, tobacco and black cherry. It’s broad on the palate, nicely polished, and with big chewy tannins, along with hints of mineral and earth on a full finish. Drinking well. $29.

~Stag’s Leap 2009 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Plummy aromas with anise, currant and cedar notes. Black fruit on the palate with stony, black-floral, and ashy-mineral notes. Integrated oak. Elegantly structured with fine tannin and full finish. Very nice. $45.

Calluna Vineyards Revisited- Aux Raynauds Merlot

In May of 2010 I visited Calluna Vineyards in Chalk Hill. Owner/Grower/Winemaker David Jeffrey showed me around the vineyards, detailing his goal to create wines from his new site in Chalk Hill sharing as much with Bordeaux as California. It was great at the time to visit such a unique site, seeing something cool and new. I liked all of the wines very much, and it was clear to me at the time that the 2008 Calluna Aux Raynauds Merlot, Chalk Hill was something special.

I guess Merlot's not the most prestigious grape being grown in California these days, but I think it's suffered an unfair decline in popularity. No one is penalizing California Cabernet, Chardonnay or Pinot Noir for the sins of their bulk commodity producers. Merlot however has developed the reputation of soft and jammy; a quaff-able crowd pleasing red that doesn't require the serious attention and scrutiny of other more distinguished varietals.

The Calluna Aux Raynauds would have none of that. It was a young wine of serious structure and depth- coming from Jeffrey's Raynaud vineyard, named for Alain Raynaud of Chateau Quinault in Saint-Émilion whom he worked harvest in 2003 with. It exhibited a Right-Bank style in its profile and blend (Merlot with 4% Cabernet Franc). Aged in 50% new French oak and with only 60 cases made, I was pretty stoked about the level of this wine for $40.

Fast forward a year and a half, I opened a bottle and enjoyed over the course of my Friday night: Decanted, with a dark black-garnet color of slight clarity. In the bouquet I picked up aromas reminding me of cassis, rose hips, white pepper and blackberry. Full and open on the palate with big dark fruit flavors- currant, black cherry and blueberry. The fruit is melded in a range of notes- tea, mineral, cracked pepper, tar, spice. Silky in feel with firm fine-grain tannins and juicy black fruit and peppery spice on a generous finish. Seems to be at the beginning of a long ascent. (I really like!)

I'm starting to see some nice reviews for the Calluna wines in Wine Spectator and Wine & Spirits. They are well deserved. This is still a small project in its infancy, so look them up online and check it out!

Day 3- Napa Valley-north

4/24/2010

Robert Keenan Winery

Saturday we headed back into Napa Valley, this time covering areas north of Rutherford. Starting on Spring Mountain at Robert Keenan, all of the stops were potential highlights. Back in the 1970's Keenan restored the winery and vineyards, which had originally been cultivated before prohibition. Now they regularly churn out acclaimed wines under the guidance of consulting winemaker Nils Venge, who in 1985 became the first American winemaker to receive a perfect score from Robert Parker for his 1985 Groth Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Keenan is known for big, briary Cabernet and Merlot with restrained and elegant fruit.

The mountain cabin-esque winery is perched on the slopes of Spring Mountain, overlooking the vineyards and the valley farther below. The tasting bar and table overlooks the barrels, under cathedral wood ceilings. A cool setting befitting the mountain location. We were served a great assortment of cheeses along with the wines. Very nice, but casual at the same time. Overall the wines were very enjoyable, a nice way to start the day.

The Wines-
-2007 Chardonnay, Spring Mountain- 80% Barrel fermented in French & American oak, weekly lees stirring, and no malo. Butterscotch, pear, and peach with light caramel and subtle fruit. Light mineral notes- balanced and nice---very good---$29.

-2006 Merlot, Napa Valley- 97% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. A blend of Spring Mountain and Carneros fruit. Aged 18 months in 33% new French and American oak. Boysenberry and black cherry greets the nose- lean and rich black fruit with firm tannins and earthy herbal and coffee notes---very good---$36.

-2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain- 86% Spring Mountain, 14% Pope Valley fruit. 20 months in 33% new French & American oak. Fig and red berries usher in black & red fruit, light spice, and pepper notes. Lean and firm with a peppery finish---very good with excellent potential---$45.

-2006 Zinfandel, Napa Valley- 70% estate. A Napa Valley blend with aging in French and American oak. Gamey black raspberry & blueberry with spice and pepper. Lean with light creamy tannins---very good---$34.

-2006 Mernet Reserve, Spring Mountain- 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc. Black pepper, violet, and black fruit with spice and creamy tannins. Long with earth and spice notes---excellent---$96.

-2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain- 100% estate, no aging info given. Dense extraction. Earthy and pungent black raspberry notes- elegant on the palate with dried herbs and allspice along with dark fruits and creme de menthe laced tannins that linger---excellent with stellar potential---$96.

**********
Storybook Mountain Vineyards


Storybook Mountain north of Calistoga is the Zin-haven of Jerry Seps- the pioneer of ultra-premium Zinfandel in Northern Napa Valley over the last 30 years. Our tour started in the redwoods around the winery and lead up into the vineyards, where we saw Mr. Seps working the organic vineyards. The expanse of east-facing hillside vineyards like an offering for Mt. St. Helena in the distance . We tasted the wines deep in the aging caves. Along with another group we ran across, the tasting turned out to be more like a cocktail party. All was good though, we met Fritz Stuhlmuller from Stuhlmuller Vineyards- a great dude who set us up on some good stuff for the following day. The visit to Storybook was a lot of fun- great surroundings, cool caves, and fantastic wine.


The Wines-

-2009 Estate Zin Gris, Napa Valley- Barrel fermented, Zinfandel rosé. Cherry blossom and strawberry- fresh and crisp---very good---$19.

-2007 Mayacamus Range Estate Zinfandel, Napa Valley- Vanilla, nutmeg, and blackberries along with mint, spice rack, and cigar box notes. Supple tannins with lingering spice- elegant---excellent---$34.

-2006 Anteaus Estate, Napa Valley- Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Merlot. Non-inoculated fermentation, French oak aged. Black currant, fig, tobacco with cigar box, cassis, and spice. Long with silky tannins---very good to excellent---$40.

-2006 Seps Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- Smoky pipe tobacco, herbs, figs, and currants. Rich & bold fruit, fine balance, light and silky tannins with a white peppery finish---excellent---$65. -2006 Estate Reserve Zinfandel, Napa Valley- Gamey, black cherry, blackberry, coffee, black tea, a gamut of spices and more fruit. Silky and wrapped in clove-laced tannins with layers of flavors throughout---excellent to stellar---$55.

-The 2008 Seps Estate Zinfandel was really nice as well***

**********

Joseph Phelps Vineyards


After all that Zin, we needed to refuel with some killer beef tri-tip at Buster's Southern Barbecue in Calistoga. With the mission accomplished, it was off to Joseph Phelps for a quick terrace tasting. The plan here was to taste Insignia, completing a trifecta with Hillside Select, Monte Bello of classic California Cabernet tasted on the trip. Instead of their formal tastings, we tasted outside on the terrace patio- a great setup. You can taste and relax at your own pace- overlooking the vineyards and soaking up the scenery. Overall the wines leading up to Insignia were good quality, albeit a little overpriced and non-distinctive. The 2006 Insignia was excellent as expected.

The Wines-

-2006 Freestone "Ovation" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast- 15 months in French oak, 60% new. Buttered popcorn on the nose with pear, candied apple, and butterscotch. Balanced with good acid. Not overly buttery. Finishes with the oaky vanilla---very good---$45.

-2007 Viognier, Napa Valley- Stainless steel fermented with 10 months in French oak. Partial malo. Meyer lemon, yellow apple, and floral notes with tart lime on the palate. Tart with good balance---very good---$50.

-2006 Freestone Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- 100% estate grown with 15 month in 65% new French oak. Black and red cherries, red curry, and tea. Silky notes of cherry and spice on the palate. Nice, but a little loose in structure---good---$55.

-2006 Merlot, Napa Valley- Aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. Smoked black fruit on the nose turns fleshy and tart on the palate. Spicy tannins and fine structure---very good---$40.

-2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 2% Petite Verdot, and 2% Malbec. Aged 19 months in 50% new French and American oak. Tight cherry, basil, and mint notes- silky red fruit with spice rack. Steady tannins finishing with mint and leather---very good---$54.

-2006 Insignia, Napa Valley- 24 months in 100% new French oak. Fully extracted. Dusty spices, leather, cigar box, and berries with currants, anise, and herbs. Firm and finishing long with herbs & spice and red fruit---excellent---$200.

**********

Seavey Vineyard


We wound our way down Conn Valley Road- a short little departure from the valley floor that really feels far off the beaten path- finally arriving at Seavey. Seavey is essentially an old dairy farm in Conn Valley, restored into a winery and vineyards in 1981 by William Seavey. The winery is an old stone building overlooking what remains of the dairy farm. The vineyards are off in the distance on gentle low mountain slopes and across the pasture toward Lake Hennessey and Pritchard Hill. The vineyards are sustainable farmed and the winery is solar powered. All wines are 100% estate grown. The winemaking is overseen by consulting winemaking superstar Philippe Melka.

Oddly enough, we ran across the same group we saw at Storybook Mountain and had the pleasure to ride their coattails and taste some 1997 Cab. It was a lot of fun, and the wine was unbelievable... the best of the trip.


The Wines-

-2007 Merlot, Napa Valley- 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. Tobacco, black fruit, and tea with black pepper, coffee, black raspberry, and currants. Firm and gripping lingering mocha notes---excellent---$45.

-2007 Caravina Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with 19 months in 40% new French oak. Coffee, raspberry, and tea with oak and cedar notes. Waves of vanilla, mocha, black fruits, leather, and cigar box. Firm and gripping with a long deep finish---excellent---$55.

-2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petite Verdot. 19 months in 50% new French oak. Extracted. Vanilla, tobacco, and peppery black fruit aromas. Silky on the palate with vanilla, cracked pepper laced black fruit, and nutmeg. Clove wrapped tannins that are firm but supple. Very lengthy finish with fruit, spice, and pepper---stellar with classic potential---$105.

-1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petite Verdot. 18 months in 40% new French oak. Extracted. On the nose I got barnyard, meaty, gamey, coffee, currant, fig, and cassis notes-profound. On the palate it was creamy notes of vanilla, nutmeg, and cloves with loads of baking spice and cracked pepper. The tannins are lush with fruit and spice- very long. This could make you cry tears of joy!---classic---$205.

-2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley- Whole cluster pressed and fermented using indigenous and inoculated yeast, barrel fermented in 33% new French oak. Green apple, blue cheese, and yeast with more rich cheese notes, red apple, and citrus. Interesting, excellent balance. Mineral notes and good acidity finishing long---excellent---$40.

**********

We had planned to taste at Cade on Howell Mountain, but didn't make it before they closed. We did get some cool pictures though. Dinner was at Girl And The Fig in Sonoma- steak tartar appetizer with a grilled salmon- it totally lived up the hype. Day 3 was an amazing day! Click the link for day 3 pictures.

The High Museum Trade Tasting

Today was the first day of the High Museum Atlanta Wine Auction, the 4th largest wine auction of its kind in the US. Proceeds from the auction benefit the High Museum. Kicking everything off was the Thursday afternoon tasting for those in the trade... With a connection to the wine business in Atlanta, a $15 donation got you an afternoon of tasting and a nice Riedel glass. Proceeds from the tasting go to assist Metro Atlanta Public Schools' access to the arts.

Between the crowds and the sheer number of wines that I was trying to taste, I decided to forgo writing any tasting notes. However I did have a few favorites- Au Bon Climat, Brewer-Clifton, Melville, Peay, Russian Hill, and Van Duzer (the 2007 making up for the 2006!) topped my list in Pinot Noirs... I was stoked to try the new 2008 Melville small lot Pinots- Terraces and Carrie's. Peay was new for me as well- loved their Sonoma Coast trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah- all from the 2008 vintage. They had great balance along with vibrant fruit. Their Syrah was awesome, balancing the full gamey and spicy fruit with cool climate finesse. Speaking of Syrah, K Vintners and their 2007 Walla Walla Valley Morrison Syrah was pretty special... full on waves of black fruit, savory spice, and earth- fully balanced with precision. I guess this is one of the entry level Syrahs from K and Charles Smith... pretty heady.

I tasted a fair amount of big Napa Cab's and Merlots from the 2005 - 2007 vintages, most of them needing time to mellow out and settle in. Caymus, Kathryn Hall, Pahlmeyer, and Pride all were pretty dark, loud, and brooding wines- intense on the palate with all the components fighting for airtime. I'd need to sit down with these and either give them time, or a lot of air to get a fair assessment. A few of the Cabs that were already showing nice refinement were the 2005 Grgich Hills (awesome 2007 Chardonnay as well), the 2006 Ramey Claret and Napa Cab, and both of Silver Oak's 2005 Cabs.

The biggest disappointments were probably Kosta Brown's 2008 Sonoma Coast and Russian River Pinot Noirs- good wines but didn't impress me as much as the Pinots mentioned earlier; some of the aggressive Cabs listed above (like I said, they need more time with me or I need more time with them...), and some high alcohol mashers from Martinelli- a Russian River Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that were both north of 15%, along with a Zin that came in at nearly 17%! Too much body and sweet gnarly fruit, they were like drinking fruit splinters and cotton candy.

There weren't too many imports, a few Australian and Chilean wines that I didn't get to. Maisons Marques and Domaines were pouring some of their portfolio- a beautiful Domaines Ott Rosé from Provence and a 2006 Pio Cesare Barolo. Very nice indeed.

So there you have it, a layman's view of the High Museum Atlanta Wine Auction trade tasting all from memory, shoddy note-taking, and wine-stained brochures. Here's to next year!