Three sides of Sonoma

There are many things to love about Sonoma County wine, and variety is definitely one of them. It was the theme of the final day of wine tasting in California’s North Coast regions in April 2013. We visited three very different producers – beginning in Santa Rosa at the Punchdown Cellars facility to visit Ceritas Wines, on to Chalk Hill and Calluna Vineyards, and finally into the heart of the Russian River Valley to Scherrer Winery in Sebastopol.

Ceritas Wines is the brainchild of John Raytek and Phoebe Bass. Their mission is to produce site-specific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir most notably from the family vineyard – The Porter Bass Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, just 8 miles inland in Forestville. There the vineyard rolls along slopes situated between ridge lines, benefiting from gentle fog, bright sunshine and cool nights. They sort grapes in the vineyard prior to harvest. In the cellar fermentation begins naturally without inoculation, and the wines are made without acid-addition. They avoid a cold-soak of the Pinot Noir, and ferment with 25% to 75% whole clusters.

Ceritas

We tasted three 2011 releases, as well as two barrel samples of 2012 Pinot Noir. My standouts included the 2011 Ceritas Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, which shined with bright citrus and floral notes, along with underlying depth of earthy minerals and dried herb – showing a dynamically rich structure with plenty of nervy tension. Very nice. The 2011 Ceritas Coastalina Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast showed clean tart fig and raspberry flavors along with deep notes of pine needle, tea leaf, and earth and brown spice – fine, silky, vibrant and complex. The 2012 Ceritas Porter Bass Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast from barrel was deeper and darker with black cherry and fig notes along with earth, forest, and savory spice that framed beautiful high-toned juicy mineral notes through the palate.

Calluna Vineyards

I first wrote about Calluna Vineyards after a visit three years ago. The vineyard was planted by David Jeffrey in 2003, and his moderately cool-climate site for Bordeaux varietals is producing balanced, powerful, and graceful wines – full of pleasure and sophistication. We tasted the current 2009 and 2010 releases.

Jon and I in the vineyard with David Jeffrey (photo by Justin)

My favorite was the 2010 Calluna ‘Aux Raynauds’ Merlot, Chalk Hill – showing plenty of mineral, floral, cedar, lead and leather sophistication, along with ripe currant fruit, all seamlessly layered and velvety on the palate, and finishing with plenty of brightness and firmness. What an awesome wine, it really shows the seriousness and sophistication that Merlot is capable of in California. I also really liked 2009 Calluna Vineyards Estate, Chalk Hill – this is a blend of the five Bordeaux varietals featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot most prominently in the blend. This showed cassis and currants, with tea, floral, cedar, tobacco and black pepper notes, layered with big supple/firm tannins and juicy acidity on the finish. Also, look for the relative value of the 2010 Calluna ‘CVC’ CallunaVineyards Cuvee, Chalk Hill. This is another Bordeaux blend, that shows really well at a lower price point.

Scherrer Winery is located in an old warehouse building out on the far side of Sebastopol. Fred Scherrer produces wines from his family’s estate vineyard in Alexander Valley, as well as from numerous other sites in Sonoma County. It’s not a program that focuses solely on Bordeaux, Burgundy or Rhone varietals – instead it’s all of the above, along with Zinfandel too. Fred built production through the late 1980’s while working at Dehlinger Winery, finally moving into his own facility in 1997. Today production is between 4000 and 5000 cases. Fred’s winemaking philosophy often centers on minimal handling and non-interventionist techniques, and varies by varietal.

Fred Scherrer pouring for Justin

We tasted through a broad range of wine, with favorites ranging from the 2009 Scherrer Old Vine Scherrer Vineyard Zinfandel, Alexander Valley – a broad and brambly dark fruited Zinfandel with lots of cola, spice and cedar depth, polished and rustic with a nice finish. A trio of 2008 Pinot Noirs shined- 2008 Scherrer Pinot Noir, Sonoma County and 2008 Scherrer Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley both showed nice, forward, spice-laden red fruit with earthy rhubarb notes. The 2008 Scherrer Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast showed similar flavors with more depth and a more bracing structure. A 2005 Scherrer Cabernet Sauvignon Scherrer Vineyard, Alexander Valley showed the warm friendly dark fruit of Alexander Valley with plenty of cedar, leather, dried herb, and vanilla notes, along with a rustic feel and sweet ripe tannins. Finally, the sleeper of the lineup was the 2008 ScherrerTimbervine Vineyard Syrah, Russian River Valley – showing beautiful crushed rock, tobacco and cedar, along with robust blackberry and savory earth on the palate. Elegant and balanced and very nice.

In many ways Scherrer’s wines embody Sonoma County. Not just in the variety and flavors in the bottle, but also in the down-to-earth workmanlike aesthetic of Fred and the winery. Fred’s even got a band room off to the side in the winery – jammed full of big amps and drums and guitars.

This was a fine lineup of three very different producers - click here to see all tasting notes from the day. It’s always a little sad to leave Sonoma County. Until next time!

Day 2- A Sunday in Northern Sonoma

Day 2 of my Napa/Sonoma weekend junket saw me in Northern Sonoma tasting a variety of wines from a variety of appellations. 

Sunday ended up as a trip from Siduri's Santa Rosa winery, throughout the Middle Reach area of the Russian River Valley at Copain and Porter Creek, and up to Ridge-Lytton Springs in the Dry Creek Valley. Aside from plenty of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it was a great day to taste varietals ranging from Viognier & Pinot Noir Blanc to Zinfandel, Syrah & Carignane.

Siduri is located in an industrial complex in Santa Rosa- a large open warehouse space filled with fermentation tanks, barrels and cases- with a tasting area carved out within and plenty of variety to be had. Their Novy Family wines featured Chardonnay, a white Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Syrah, Zinfandel and a late-harvest Viognier- most of which were single vineyard. Overall the Novy wines were distinctive and terroir-driven with good value. Among the Siduri Pinot Noirs were four new 2010 releases including three single vineyards- 2010 Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley, 2010 Sonatera Sonoma Coast, 2010 Ewald Russian River Valley & 2010 Cargasacchi Sta. Rita Hills. The Sonatera and Cargasacchi were highlights for me.

Copain was a magical and lustrous spot perched up on a hill along Eastside Road. The winery and tasting room overlooks their estate vineyard on one side, and the greater expanse of valley floor vineyards on the other. It's a nice showcase for the wines, which were pure and focused with deft balance and elegance. Tasted were current release "Tous Ensemble" and "Les Voisins" wines from Anderson Valley (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah) as well as a single vineyard Pinot Noir- 2009 "En Bas" Kiser from Anderson Valley. Overall a beautiful assortment of wines. 

The Ridge tasting room at Lytton Springs is a great place to view 100+ year old Zinfandel vines as well as taste a full assortment from of Ridge wines- from the Monte Bello wines in the Santa Cruz Mountains to the Zinfandel and blends from Sonoma. Lastly, Porter Creek has a cool little tasting room along Westside Road overlooking their organic vineyards on one side and a MacMurray Ranch vineyard on the other. Their wines overall show bright fruit with balanced Russian River spice and earth along with a hint of rusticity.

Below are my favorite wines from the day (click the link for price and tech info as available).

Siduri 2010 Pinot Noir Sonatera, Sonoma Coast-

Compact aromas of spice, sagebrush, sandalwood and fig. Interesting red notes on the palate- spice, dates, fig and sarsaparilla. Nicely weighted and smooth fine tannins. Full breathy finish. Very nice.

Siduri 2010 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi, Sta. Rita Hills- 

Dense all the way through. Aromas of sage, plum, mossy earth and violet. The palate featured densely layered red and dark fruit, eucalyptus, earth and mushroom. Smooth and lithe through the palate with fine tannins and a lengthy breathy finish. Very nice, needs a little time.

Novy Family 2009 Syrah Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands-

Aromas of tea leaf, olive, black pepper, violet & bacon fat- with blue fruit and cassis on the palate accented violet and white pepper. Fine grainy tannins and full breathy finish. Very nice.

Novy Family 2010 Viognier Oley Late Harvest, Russian River Valley-

Aromas of slate, honey and apricot- shown with focused baking spice and gingerbread depth on the palate. Nicely balanced and intense. Full finish.

Copain 2010 Chardonnay "Tous Ensemble", Anderson Valley-

Bright aromas- Meyer lemon, riverstone and spice. Similar notes on the palate, very bright fruit with mineral accents and toasty lees. Rich and silky and bright throughout with a full finish. Very nice.

Copain 2009 Pinot Noir "LesVoisins", Anderson Valley-

Bouquet of clove, eastern spice, fig & sandalwood. Bright raspberry & fig with earthy spice depth on the palate. Elegant textures, fine tannins and a full plush finish. Very nice.

Copain 2009 Pinot Noir "En Bas" Kiser, Anderson Valley- 

Complex and dense bouquet- bright raspberry & fig paste with a myriad of spice and floral aromas. Beautifully layered and textured fruit with earth, spice and wood depth- woven and seamless and still tightly wound but very pretty. Fine smooth fleshy tannin with lingering depth on finish. Needs a few years. Outstanding.

Copain 2009 Syrah "Les Voisins", Yorkville Highlands- 

Plump aromas of black pepper, black olive, marinating beef, violet and plum. Pure fruit and savory depth on the palate- seamlessly woven with fleshy feel and fine firm tannins and full finish. Deft balance. Excellent.

Ridge 2010 Geyserville, Alexander Valley- 

Tasted at Lytton Springs. Aromas of black pepper, blue fruit and wild earth. Juicy and ripe fruit on the palate with savory like leather and spice. Roundly structured and an ample finish. Very good.

Ridge 2007 Syrah Lytton Estate, Dry Creek Valley-

Expressive aromas of anise, savory spice, blueberry and lavender. Peppery dark and red fruit on the palate with accents of blue flowers, licorice and cola. Round smooth tannins and a breathy juicy finish. Very nice.

Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, Santa Cruz Mountains- 

Notes of cedar, tobacco, cassis, berry and leather. Layered and complex and elegant. Juicy with nice depth and feel. Fine firm tannins and a medium finish. Very nice.

Ridge 2007 Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains-

Big savory notes on the bouquet- tobacco leaf, earth, shoebox leather; rich and deep with cassis and currant peeking through. Rich and fine on the palate with layered fruit and depth- still very dense and tightly wound. Fine tannins and lengthy finish.

Porter Creek 2010 Old Vine Chardonnay, Russian River Valley- 

Notes of slate, lemon and stone fruit. Rich and balanced on the palate with stone fruit, spice and traces of mineral notes. Medium finish with lingering spice.

Porter Creek 2009 Pinot Noir Fiona Hill, Russian River Valley- 

High pitched spice and plum on the bouquet. The palate led with plum and cherry along with mulled spice and rocky mineral notes that were balanced and integrated. Nicely layered structure with fine tannins and a pleasing finish.

Porter Creek 2009 Zinfandel Old Vine, Sonoma Co- 

Blue fruit on the nose with subtle mulled spice. Red cherry and red currant notes on the palate that are jammy and juicy, along with notes of earth and cracked pepper. Juicy fleshy tannins and a nice long finish. Very nice.

Porter Creek 2009 Syrah Timbervine Ranch, Russian River Valley-

Huge Syrah nose of green olive, bacon fat, cracked pepper and black currant. On the palate is grainy black fruit with savory herb and pepper notes. Nice depth. Coarse tannins with a nice richness on the palate. Breathy finish. Very nice.

More good luck with Incredible Red

I've had good luck with Peachy Canyon's Incredible Red Zinfandel as a very solid everyday red wine showing great value. The wine is a blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah from Peachy Canyon's various estate vineyards in Paso Robles. The 2010 features a striking new red label that stood out from the Albertson's deli case. At $8.99 the deal was sealed.

Peachy Canyon 2010 Incredible Red Zinfandel, Paso Robles- Bouquet and palate of mulberry, blueberry, black pepper and mulled spice. The ripe fruit on the palate is pleasantly bright and not overly jammy. Medium bodied, clean tannins and a peppery finish. This is a pleasant and enjoyable quaffer- it offers hints of depth without belying its juicy simplicity. Solid value. (rating- I like!)

2011 Wine Travels- Paso Robles Top 10

Onward and upward. The same trip in May produced a wonderful afternoon strolling around the Westside hills of Paso Robles. If you've never taken a ride on Vineyard Dr, it's truly one of the great scenic wine country drives in California.

The day included stops at Turley, L'Aventure, Denner, Tablas Creek and Adelaida. Through the day I enjoyed a nice variety of Westside Paso wines and caught plenty of highlights of what the area does well- Syrah, Rhône blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel- below were my 10 favorites:

Click the links for more info on the wines

2007 Adelaida Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Viking Estate Vineyard, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Mineral, tea, floral, and red fruit on the nose. Additional red fruit, tea, lavender, and cedar notes on the palate. Well structured with good weight and feel, grainy tannins, and a long finish. (I really liked!)

2008 Adelaida Syrah Anna’s Vineyard, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Meaty, floral, and blue fruit notes on the nose. Plush fruit, floral, gamey flavors- with lush round tannins and long fruit notes to finish. (I really liked!)

2008 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Cherry, fruitcake, herb, and spice notes on the nose. Beautiful silky feel on the palate with red fruit, mineral, and peppery notes. Firm-fine tannins and a long finish. A lot more to this than tasting room notes can indicate. Outstanding and should develop nicely. (I really liked!)

2010 Tablas Creek Rosé, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Rich red fruit and toffee on the nose. Strawberry and cherry fruit, rich and full, with a nice finish. Excellent rosé. (I really liked!)

2008 Tablas Creek Mourvedre, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Meaty, mineral, red & blue fruit on the notes. Notes of tea, red fruit, and light spice on the palate. Firm round/ripe tannins, and a lengthy finish. (I really liked!)

2009 Denner “The Ditch Digger”, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Tight aromas- mostly cherry and red currant. The palate gives black cherry and mineral notes with rich spice and round tannins. Finishes long. (I really liked!)

2010 Denner Theresa, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Stone fruit and floral nose. Leesy and rich fruit through the palate with a lengthy finish. Very nice. (I really liked!)

2008 L’Aventure Estate Cuvée, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Mineral, tea, black currant, and cherry notes in the bouquet. Full dark fruit along with mineral and toffee notes on the palate. Round firm tannins and good length. (I really liked!)

2005 L’Aventure Optimus, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Cracked pepper, cherry, and dried herbal notes on the nose, leading to darker currant, leather, and graphite notes on the palate. Great feel and structure. Gripping round tannins and a long finish. (I loved!)

2009 Turley Zinfandel Dusi Vineyard, Paso Robles

Tasting room pour. Blackberry, cherry cola, and spice on the nose. The palate shows additions of red fruit and black tea, with a nice satiny feel. Tannins and round and fine with spice and fruit lingering on the finish. (I really liked!)

Click for more Paso Robles pictures

Thanksgiving Heavy Hitters

There's not a better holiday for wine than Thanksgiving. You can put your food & wine-pairing acumen to the test, or you can pull corks on some epic bottles to share with friends and family. I prefer the latter.

I bought a nice dry Pfalz Qualitätzwein Riesling at Murphy's in Atlanta to get things started, and then moved on to some heavy hitters from my stash over the course of the weekend. All the wines paired well with holiday fare (and leftovers).  The salty, savory and sage flavors of the holiday fare complimented the good acid and bright juicy fruit of each of these wines:

Müller-Catoir 2009 Riesling Trocken, Pfalz (Imported by Michael Skurnik)- Lemongrass, petrol and slate aromas. A bracing dose of lime, wet rock and mango hits the palate. Juicy rich feel with hints of dried herb. Good length. Paired classically with Thanksgiving dinner. Could add nuance with aging. (I like!)

Melville 2009 Terraces Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills- Opened for Thanksgiving- did not decant. A striking cloudy ruby color. Broad bouquet with hints of Christmas spice, cherry, cranberry, sandalwood and mushroom-earth. Hits the palate with a balanced intensity from the bouquet and adds floral, mineral and tea notes to the mix. Full and sharp on the palate with a glassy smooth feel augmented by stemmy tannins both firm and fine. Ample finish. Excellent. Will be interested to see where this is going. (I really like!)

St Innocent 2009 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton- Opened for Thanksgiving weekend- no decant. Dark dense clear ruby color. Aromas of black cherry, dusty herb & spice and balsam. Full and generous on the palate with ample red & black fruit, spice, herb, eucalyptus, mineral and coffee notes. Smooth and creamy feel lined with round-fine tannins. Finishes medium-long with red fruit and baking spice. Excellent.... in that opulent new world Pinot kind of way. I'm sure this would mellow and add some extra nuance with more bottle age. (I really like!)

Storybook Mountain 2006 Estate Reserve Zinfandel, Napa Valley- Opened for Thanksgiving weekend, no decant but several hours open. A dark clear garnet color. Generous note of plum, blueberry, clove, tobacco and leather on the bouquet. Vibrant and open fruit on the palate, both blue and black, deftly balanced with seamless hints of spice, cedar, herbs, cocoa and earth. It glides through the palate with fine and round tannins, finishing long with all of the seamless layers of flavor demonstrated throughout. Elegant like a Pinot Noir. Imminently approachable and effortlessly complex- this is a sensational wine. (I love!)

This was a pretty special lineup of wines to enjoy over the weekend.  The Müller-Catoir Riesling was a great starting point... great with Thanksgiving dinner and beautifully bright and vibrant with its fruit.  The Melville and St. Innocent were both balanced and bold young Pinot Noirs with layered fruit, spice and depth.  I have to say, the St. Innocent definitely plays on the California side of the fence for an Oregon Pinot Noir. The Storybook Mountain is a special wine, classically-styled like an aged claret. A California Zinfandel that was the most elegant and beautiful of the three. 

Click the links on the wines above to learn more about each of these wines and how they are grown and made.

Day 4- Sonoma- Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley

Sunday 4/25/2010
Arnot-Roberts Winery

Sunday had us back in the Russian River Valley, with 4 stops in its different regions before heading up to Alexander Valley. The first stop was in Forestville at Arnot-Roberts, a winery founded in 2001 by longtime friends Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts. Both have spent their lifetime around winemaking in Napa Valley; Nathan being a second generation cooper-making all of the new barrels that Arnot-Roberts uses, and Duncan formerly working at several big name Napa wineries. They operate out of an old winery warehouse building in Forestville, a small town in the west of the Russian River Valley. Their wines are produced using natural yeast fermentations, without fining or filtering, and with little sulfur added at the fermenter. For aging, new oak is used very judiciously and the barrels are toasted to work specifically for the vintage at hand.

Of note, Arnot-Roberts wines on balance are a point or more lower in alcohol by volume than most of their contemporary California wines. Very finessed and truly European in style. Produced in very small quantities, and sourced from distinctive vineyards in Sonoma, Napa, and Mendocino Counties. Arnot-Roberts fits a more appropriate definition of a cult wine in my opinion- down to earth guys making wines that fly in the face of current convention in California; and in an unassuming Bohemian-type warehouse space. I really dig the aesthetic of the packaging as well- embodied by the California Fuchsia painting by Nathan's grandmother, Margrit Biever Mondavi, that dons most of their bottles. It was a real treat to taste through this rare wine with Nathan, the time was much appreciated. Special thanks as well to Hardy Wallace and his Dirty South Wine blog for turning me on to these guys.

The Wines-

-2009 Green Island Vineyard Chardonnay, Napa Valley- Unfiltered, all neutral oak. Straw in color. Beautiful nose with aromas of brie, wet stone, lime, and caramel. Lemongrass flavors with lime, flint, honeycomb, and green apple. Chablis-esque. Tart acidity, nicely integrated and balanced---excellent---+/-$30.

-2008 Syrah, North Coast- Inky in appearance. Expressive feminine lavender, berries, and perfume aromas with lean and tart berry, mineral, and cured meat flavors- tightly structured with added berries on the finish---very good---$20-$30.

-2007 Bugay Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County- Bright purple in the glass. Floral notes of lavender, cherry, leather, and herbs with pepper, herbs, red cherries, & currants. Spicy tannins finishing with notes of vanilla---excellent---+/-$50??

-2007 Alder Springs Syrah, Mendocino County- Inky with notes of bacon, sweet red cherry, and boysenberry. Explosive on the palate with currants, cracked pepper, red raspberry, and cherry- accented by gamey notes and peppery tannins- structured with a racy acidity. Lingering finish---excellent---+/-$50.

-2007 Clajeax Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill- Bright purple. Spicy aromas-clove, nutmeg, cedar, with red and dark fruits. Flavors of lavender, black currents, cassis, leather, pencil lead- full throughout with gripping tannins and a lengthy finish dusted with traces of fruit. Impactful yet elegant-very much like a fine Bordeaux---excellent to stellar---+/-$75.

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Iron Horse Vineyards


In Green Valley near Forestville, Iron Horse was just a quick hop over from Arnot-Roberts. It served as a nice little diversion into sparkling wines. If you've never been to Iron Horse before, the tasting area is outdoors and the winery sits on top of a hill above the vineyards. There is a fantastic view east across Russian River Valley all the way to Mt. St. Helena. The pourers are cool and the vibe is laid back. We opted for the tasting with 5 of Iron Horse's méthode Champenoise sparking wines- all estate estate grown in the Green Valley appellation.

The Wines-

-2004 Blanc de Blancs- 100% Chardonnay aged 4+ years on the lees. Fine and persistent bead. Yeast, mineral, and light fruit notes open up into fresh citrus and apple- bright and crisp---very good to excellent---$38.

-2006 Wedding Cuvée- Blanc de Noirs- 86% Pinot Noir, 14% Chardonnay. Fine in the glass. Yeast, wet stone, light cherry, red apple, and chalk on the finish- nice and long---excellent---$38.

-2005 Classic Vintage Brut- 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Aged 3 years on lees. Fine beads. Nice brioche and lemon notes with rich mineral, citrus, and apple notes and finish---excellent---$33.

-2005 Russian Cuvée- 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Aged 3 years on lees. Still Brut, but slightly sweeter dosage. More red fruit- apple & cherry along with yeast notes. More fruit driven---good to very good---$33.

-2005 Brut Rosé- 81% Pinot Noir, 19% Chardonnay. Color comes from extraction rather than blending in still wine. Red cherry and strawberry with further darker notes predominate on the palate- the extraction is a little overpowering for my tastes---good---$50.



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Joseph Swan Vineyards




Moving back east into the heart of the Russian River Valley, we stopped to taste at Joseph Swan Vineyards. Joseph Swan was a pioneer of Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley. The winery is now owned by longtime winemaker Rod Berglund. They still specialize in small lots of unique and interesting single vineyard Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. The wines are rich and bold with full fruit and spice, yet elegant and very refined with less extraction and alcohol than many contemporaries. In their way they really embody the Russian River Valley. The tasting room is in the middle of the cellar- very low key and all about the wines.



The Wines-

-2006 Cuvée du Trois Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Blend, Partial whole clusters, wild and cultured yeasts, 10 months in French Burgundy barrels, unfined and unfiltered. Dirty brick red with clarity. Cinnamon and sour cherry with nice full flavors of cherry and allspice. Lots of spice and good acidity. Dusty grip with a nice finish---very good to excellent---$28.

-2006 Trenton View Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Same brick red color. Similar cinnamon and cherry notes with a greater earthiness. Mushrooms, spice, and red fruit with a nice, long grip---excellent---$35.

-2005 Mancini Ranch Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Medium ruby color. Mulled cider, cherry, and maple with spice rack and red fruit. Silky tannins and finish---very good to excellent---$26.

-2005 Zeigler Ranch Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Similar color to the Mancini. Spices and mulled raspberry notes with more sweet, mulled red fruit on the palate. Silky with nice length---very good to excellent---$26.

-2006 Saralee Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Clear ruby. Earth, spice-box, and red fruit with cherry and cola flavors. Great acid profile with gripping tannins and lingering red fruit flavors---excellent---$36.

-2005 Trenton Station Syrah, Russian River Valley- Inky. Smokey and gamey with black fruit, herbs, and pepper. Pepper, olive, and spice notes all compliment the black fruit. Pure silk through the tannins---very good to excellent---$22.

-2006 Matthew's Station Tannat, Russian River Valley- Brown-ruby. Port-like with maple notes. Big black fruit with firm tannins---good to very good---$28.

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Thomas George Estates


Our last two tastings were set up the previous day during our chance meeting with Fritz Stuhlmuller. He was nice enough to hook us up at Thomas George Estate, as well as Stuhlmuller Vineyards. Thomas George Estates is a fairly new winery along Westside Road in the north of the Russian River Valley- the historic former site of Davis Bynum. Jeremy Baker, a Toronto restaurateur, purchased the winery and the estate vineyards in a family partnership in early 2008, and completely renovated the winery complex. They're developing three vineyards for an estate program- Baker Ridge-above the winery, Cresta Ridge-in Green Valley, and Starr Ridge-in northeast of the Russian River Valley appellation. The winemaker is Chris Russi, formerly of Christopher Creek Winery in Russian River Valley.

The winery and tasting room are modern and upscale-contemporary in feel, with beautifully appointed grounds. There's much attention to detail-with the feel of a facility tied to a touring business. The wines were consistently enjoyable- bold fruit, good balance, some finesse, integrated oak spice- solid and consistently Russian River Valley in style.

The Wines-

-2008 Sauvignon Musque, Dry Creek Valley- Apple, citrus, and mineral aromas with honeyed citrus notes, apple, and lime. Clean finish with lingering citrus fruit---very good---$25.

-2008 Windsor Oaks Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley- 100% Stainless steel. Lime, banana, and citrus- with lemon grass and apple flavors. Lively acidity that balances and mellows as it finishes---very good---$25.

-2008 Viognier, Sonoma Valley- Stainless steel fermented, no malo. Full expressive aromas of Rose petals, minerals,apple, honey, and peach- with honeyed floral and peach on the palate. Good acid and balance and with a nice finish---very good---$28.

-2008 Stuhlmuller Chardonnay, Inox, Alexander Valley- Unoaked with no malo. Straw, honey, lemon, and apple with mulled apple and lemon meringue. Nice balance-smooth and creamy on the palate---very good to excellent---$32.

-2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- 2-4 day cold soak, inoculated, 10 months in 33% new French oak. Honey, maple, raspberry, and floral aromas-inviting. A silky rush of fruit with herbal and floral notes. Balanced with acid and spicy oak tannins lacing the red fruit finish---very good to excellent---$38.

-2007 Allen Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Aging in 33% new French oak. Cedar on the nose with floral-violet, earth, and cherry notes. Red fruit with mushroom and mossy notes- rich and silky with a great finish---excellent---$55.

-2007 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- 5 day cold soak with 8-10 day fermentation w/thrice daily punch downs. Aged for 10 months in 33% new, 66% American oak. 5% Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah. Vanilla, black cherry, and boysenberry with cedar and black fruit. Peppery and spicy tannins with a long finish---excellent---$28.

-2008 Tre Torrente Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- Aged in 25% new American oak- 16.5 abv. Vanilla, spice rack, lavender, and subtle fruit with port-like black fruit and more vanilla spice on the tannins and some pepper on a big finish---excellent---$33.

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Stuhlmuller Vineyards


Stuhlmuller Vineyards is located on the southern border of Alexander Valley- to the adjacent north of the Russian River Valley appellation, and to the adjacent northwest of Chalk Hill. Their riverside Chardonnay vineyards benefit from the cool morning fog of the Russian River. The Cabernet is grown on the slopes off the river. The Stuhlmuller's bought the vineyards in the 1980's and operated the property solely as vineyards until 2000, when their son Fritz achieved the dream of establishing an estate winery on the property. The style is rich and crisp, cool climate Chardonnay; and approach-ably bold and balanced Cabernet. It's a great little spot in the middle of the vineyards- in a tucked away part of Alexander Valley. The modest tasting room looks into the winery.


The Wines-

-2008 Estate Chardonnay, Alexander Valley- Fermented with indigenous yeast and aged sur lie in 10% new French oak for 8 months, 76% undergoing indigenous maloactic fermentation. Pear, Meyer lemon, and citrus with additional spice, apple, and caramel. Very balanced with lively acid-finishing with apple and spice---excellent---$24.

-2007 Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Alexander Valley- Fermented in barrel and aged for 14 months sur lie with 40% new French oak. Unfiltered. Indigenous yeast with full malo. Richer in color. Butterscotch, caramel, and candied apple with rich buttery apple flavors---very good---$38.

-2008 Estate Zinfandel, Alexander Valley- Not yet released. Boysenberry, cherry, caramel, spice, and blueberry- with more cherry and spice, full through the tannins and long finish---very good to excellent---$28.

-2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley- 18 months in 46% new French oak. Black cherry, spice, mint- light and floral- with red fruit, tobacco, and earthy spice. Firm with nice length---very good---$36.

-2006 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley- 3.5% Petite Verdot blended in. 18 months in 55% new French oak. Red raspberry, boysenberry, and mossy earth with black cherry, raspberry. Gliding and silky with with spicy tannins before finishing long with smooth flavors of baking spice---excellent---$65.

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With good luck and good planning, it was another awesome day of wine tasting. Alas, it was time to see my buddies Justin and Jon off to a red eye flight back to Atlanta. I had another day before my departure. We ended up in a Wal-Mart parking lot in Rohnert Park, with the two of them trying to pack up massive amounts of wine to fly back home with... they managed to make it work and get to their flight. There was one more day to follow for me, with multiple stops in Sonoma County and Carneros...

Click here for all Day 4 pictures-

Day 3- Napa Valley-north

4/24/2010

Robert Keenan Winery

Saturday we headed back into Napa Valley, this time covering areas north of Rutherford. Starting on Spring Mountain at Robert Keenan, all of the stops were potential highlights. Back in the 1970's Keenan restored the winery and vineyards, which had originally been cultivated before prohibition. Now they regularly churn out acclaimed wines under the guidance of consulting winemaker Nils Venge, who in 1985 became the first American winemaker to receive a perfect score from Robert Parker for his 1985 Groth Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Keenan is known for big, briary Cabernet and Merlot with restrained and elegant fruit.

The mountain cabin-esque winery is perched on the slopes of Spring Mountain, overlooking the vineyards and the valley farther below. The tasting bar and table overlooks the barrels, under cathedral wood ceilings. A cool setting befitting the mountain location. We were served a great assortment of cheeses along with the wines. Very nice, but casual at the same time. Overall the wines were very enjoyable, a nice way to start the day.

The Wines-
-2007 Chardonnay, Spring Mountain- 80% Barrel fermented in French & American oak, weekly lees stirring, and no malo. Butterscotch, pear, and peach with light caramel and subtle fruit. Light mineral notes- balanced and nice---very good---$29.

-2006 Merlot, Napa Valley- 97% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. A blend of Spring Mountain and Carneros fruit. Aged 18 months in 33% new French and American oak. Boysenberry and black cherry greets the nose- lean and rich black fruit with firm tannins and earthy herbal and coffee notes---very good---$36.

-2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain- 86% Spring Mountain, 14% Pope Valley fruit. 20 months in 33% new French & American oak. Fig and red berries usher in black & red fruit, light spice, and pepper notes. Lean and firm with a peppery finish---very good with excellent potential---$45.

-2006 Zinfandel, Napa Valley- 70% estate. A Napa Valley blend with aging in French and American oak. Gamey black raspberry & blueberry with spice and pepper. Lean with light creamy tannins---very good---$34.

-2006 Mernet Reserve, Spring Mountain- 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc. Black pepper, violet, and black fruit with spice and creamy tannins. Long with earth and spice notes---excellent---$96.

-2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain- 100% estate, no aging info given. Dense extraction. Earthy and pungent black raspberry notes- elegant on the palate with dried herbs and allspice along with dark fruits and creme de menthe laced tannins that linger---excellent with stellar potential---$96.

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Storybook Mountain Vineyards


Storybook Mountain north of Calistoga is the Zin-haven of Jerry Seps- the pioneer of ultra-premium Zinfandel in Northern Napa Valley over the last 30 years. Our tour started in the redwoods around the winery and lead up into the vineyards, where we saw Mr. Seps working the organic vineyards. The expanse of east-facing hillside vineyards like an offering for Mt. St. Helena in the distance . We tasted the wines deep in the aging caves. Along with another group we ran across, the tasting turned out to be more like a cocktail party. All was good though, we met Fritz Stuhlmuller from Stuhlmuller Vineyards- a great dude who set us up on some good stuff for the following day. The visit to Storybook was a lot of fun- great surroundings, cool caves, and fantastic wine.


The Wines-

-2009 Estate Zin Gris, Napa Valley- Barrel fermented, Zinfandel rosé. Cherry blossom and strawberry- fresh and crisp---very good---$19.

-2007 Mayacamus Range Estate Zinfandel, Napa Valley- Vanilla, nutmeg, and blackberries along with mint, spice rack, and cigar box notes. Supple tannins with lingering spice- elegant---excellent---$34.

-2006 Anteaus Estate, Napa Valley- Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Merlot. Non-inoculated fermentation, French oak aged. Black currant, fig, tobacco with cigar box, cassis, and spice. Long with silky tannins---very good to excellent---$40.

-2006 Seps Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- Smoky pipe tobacco, herbs, figs, and currants. Rich & bold fruit, fine balance, light and silky tannins with a white peppery finish---excellent---$65. -2006 Estate Reserve Zinfandel, Napa Valley- Gamey, black cherry, blackberry, coffee, black tea, a gamut of spices and more fruit. Silky and wrapped in clove-laced tannins with layers of flavors throughout---excellent to stellar---$55.

-The 2008 Seps Estate Zinfandel was really nice as well***

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Joseph Phelps Vineyards


After all that Zin, we needed to refuel with some killer beef tri-tip at Buster's Southern Barbecue in Calistoga. With the mission accomplished, it was off to Joseph Phelps for a quick terrace tasting. The plan here was to taste Insignia, completing a trifecta with Hillside Select, Monte Bello of classic California Cabernet tasted on the trip. Instead of their formal tastings, we tasted outside on the terrace patio- a great setup. You can taste and relax at your own pace- overlooking the vineyards and soaking up the scenery. Overall the wines leading up to Insignia were good quality, albeit a little overpriced and non-distinctive. The 2006 Insignia was excellent as expected.

The Wines-

-2006 Freestone "Ovation" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast- 15 months in French oak, 60% new. Buttered popcorn on the nose with pear, candied apple, and butterscotch. Balanced with good acid. Not overly buttery. Finishes with the oaky vanilla---very good---$45.

-2007 Viognier, Napa Valley- Stainless steel fermented with 10 months in French oak. Partial malo. Meyer lemon, yellow apple, and floral notes with tart lime on the palate. Tart with good balance---very good---$50.

-2006 Freestone Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- 100% estate grown with 15 month in 65% new French oak. Black and red cherries, red curry, and tea. Silky notes of cherry and spice on the palate. Nice, but a little loose in structure---good---$55.

-2006 Merlot, Napa Valley- Aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. Smoked black fruit on the nose turns fleshy and tart on the palate. Spicy tannins and fine structure---very good---$40.

-2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 2% Petite Verdot, and 2% Malbec. Aged 19 months in 50% new French and American oak. Tight cherry, basil, and mint notes- silky red fruit with spice rack. Steady tannins finishing with mint and leather---very good---$54.

-2006 Insignia, Napa Valley- 24 months in 100% new French oak. Fully extracted. Dusty spices, leather, cigar box, and berries with currants, anise, and herbs. Firm and finishing long with herbs & spice and red fruit---excellent---$200.

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Seavey Vineyard


We wound our way down Conn Valley Road- a short little departure from the valley floor that really feels far off the beaten path- finally arriving at Seavey. Seavey is essentially an old dairy farm in Conn Valley, restored into a winery and vineyards in 1981 by William Seavey. The winery is an old stone building overlooking what remains of the dairy farm. The vineyards are off in the distance on gentle low mountain slopes and across the pasture toward Lake Hennessey and Pritchard Hill. The vineyards are sustainable farmed and the winery is solar powered. All wines are 100% estate grown. The winemaking is overseen by consulting winemaking superstar Philippe Melka.

Oddly enough, we ran across the same group we saw at Storybook Mountain and had the pleasure to ride their coattails and taste some 1997 Cab. It was a lot of fun, and the wine was unbelievable... the best of the trip.


The Wines-

-2007 Merlot, Napa Valley- 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. Tobacco, black fruit, and tea with black pepper, coffee, black raspberry, and currants. Firm and gripping lingering mocha notes---excellent---$45.

-2007 Caravina Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with 19 months in 40% new French oak. Coffee, raspberry, and tea with oak and cedar notes. Waves of vanilla, mocha, black fruits, leather, and cigar box. Firm and gripping with a long deep finish---excellent---$55.

-2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petite Verdot. 19 months in 50% new French oak. Extracted. Vanilla, tobacco, and peppery black fruit aromas. Silky on the palate with vanilla, cracked pepper laced black fruit, and nutmeg. Clove wrapped tannins that are firm but supple. Very lengthy finish with fruit, spice, and pepper---stellar with classic potential---$105.

-1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley- 98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petite Verdot. 18 months in 40% new French oak. Extracted. On the nose I got barnyard, meaty, gamey, coffee, currant, fig, and cassis notes-profound. On the palate it was creamy notes of vanilla, nutmeg, and cloves with loads of baking spice and cracked pepper. The tannins are lush with fruit and spice- very long. This could make you cry tears of joy!---classic---$205.

-2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley- Whole cluster pressed and fermented using indigenous and inoculated yeast, barrel fermented in 33% new French oak. Green apple, blue cheese, and yeast with more rich cheese notes, red apple, and citrus. Interesting, excellent balance. Mineral notes and good acidity finishing long---excellent---$40.

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We had planned to taste at Cade on Howell Mountain, but didn't make it before they closed. We did get some cool pictures though. Dinner was at Girl And The Fig in Sonoma- steak tartar appetizer with a grilled salmon- it totally lived up the hype. Day 3 was an amazing day! Click the link for day 3 pictures.

DAY 2- Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley (part 2)

4/23/2010

Dutton-Goldfield Winery

After a quick lunch at Bill's Deli & Grocery on Gravenstein Hwy in Sebastopol, we headed across the street to the new Dutton-Goldfield tasting room. I visited Dutton-Goldfield at their shared location with Balletto Vineyards last year, and loved the wines. With the proximity to Merry Edwards, this was a great chance to pop in for a quick visit to taste through the new releases. The new facility serves the dual purpose of being a tasting room and their warehouse storage facility. It's a nice open space with a contemporary feel and artwork on the walls. While we were there, winemaker and co-proprietor Dan Goldfield was blasting out some Stevie Ray Vaughn tunes to test out the sound system. Dutton-Goldfield is a no-frills tasting experience; just extremely solid wines served at the bar- perfect for a drop-in tasting.

The Wines-

-2008 Gewurztraminer, Green Valley- Peach cobbler and crisp citrus fruit, with honey and heather notes. Nice and refreshing with good aromatics---good to very good---$25.

-2007 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley-All barrel fermented in 40% new French oak with twice monthly lees stirring, 100% malo. Straw-gold. Butterscotch, apple, and caramel with bright mineral notes and nice finish---very good---$35.

-2007 McDougall Ranch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- Aged 17 months in 45% new French oak. Medium clarity. Red cherry, pepper, and earth notes highlighted with red apple and baking spice-laden tannins. Great finish---excellent---$58.

-2007 Freestone Hill Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Aged 17 months is 55% new French oak. Brighter garnet color. Cherry cola and violets with bright cranberry, cherry, and cinnamon with silky tannins and a lengthy finish---excellent---$58.

-2007 Sanchietti Pinot Noir, Green Valley- 17 months, 55% new. Earthy and gamey red berries with cherry cola and baking spice. Spicy tannins and finish---very good to excellent---$58.

-2007 Devil's Gulch Pinot Noir, Marin County- Terrace and slope lots fermented and aged seperately, 17 months-60% new. Deeper and more dense. Cherry and pepper- silky red berry and light spicy tannins---very good---$58.

-2008 Morelli Lane Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Like pinots- cold soaked with gentle punch-downs, aged 16 months in 40% French oak barrels. Ruby & bright with medium clarity. Black fruit and cherry with silky berry notes and spice. Cool silky tannins and long finish---excellent---$40.

-2007 Cherry Ridge Syrah, Russian River Valley- 20 months in 40% new French oak barrels. Ruby and dense. Gamey black cherry and spice notes with gamey rich red fruit with supple tannins and a berry finish---excellent---$35.

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Peterson Winery


We headed up into Dry Creek Valley to taste at Peterson Winery. Peterson is located on Dry Creek Road in the Timbercrest Farms complex along with several other wineries. Fred Peterson has been producing wines in Dry Creek Valley for over 20 years, with his son Jamie recently moving to the position of winemaker. The Petersons believe in sustainable farming and minimal intervention in the winemaking process. Much of their wine comes from their own Bradford Mountain vineyard in the northwest of Dry Creek Valley. We tasted through the Peterson wines with Jamie.

The Wines-

-2009 Timbercrest Farms Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley- 96% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Muscat Blanc. Fermentation begins in stainless steel then is moved to French oak (10% new), full malo. Lemon-grass nose with ample tropical and citrus fruit on the palate. Balanced acidity and minerality---good to very good---$17.

-2007 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- 84% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah, 6% Carignane. 80% neutral mixed oak, 10% new Hungarian, 10% new American. Ruby with medium density. Bacon, cherry, vanilla with coffee, black fruits, and baking spice tannins. Nice and ripe but not overly aggressive---very good---$23.

-2005 Bradford Mountain Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- Unfined and unfiltered. Aged 21 months in 20% new French, 20% new Hungarian, 60% 3-5 year old French Oak. Ruby and dense. Black cherry and anise with currant, pepper, vanilla. Peppery tannins and long cinnamon on the finish---excellent---$32.

-2007 Shinbone, Dry Creek Valley- 60% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Unfined and unfiltered. 40% new Hungarian, 20% new French, and 40% 2-4 year old American barrels. Full throttle-cocoa, mocha, and black fruit with soft tannins and spice on the finish---good to very good---$28.

-2002 Agraria, Bradford Mtn Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley- 80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot. 26 months in 100% new French Oak. Floral on the nose with tobacco and cedar. Violets and strawberry, baking spice, cherry. Silky firm with spice on the finish---very good---$60.

-2007 1-2-3 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley- Inky and dense. Gamey, briary red fruit with licorice, ripe blackberry, and peppery tannins---good---$23.

-2006 Bradford Mountain Syrah, Dry Creek Valley- 92% Syrah, 7%Viognier, 1% Petite Sirah. Unfined and unfiltered. 22 months in 60% new French Oak. Inky and dense. Meaty wild black fruit with mocha, vanilla, and dried herbs. Smooth and silky tannins with a long finish of herbs and spice---excellent---$45.

-2007 Home Farm Muscat Blanc- 75% Muscat Blanc, 25% Orange Muscat. Fortified. Lightly sweet orange and honey notes with great balance---excellent---$30 375ml.

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Ridge Vineyards-Lytton Springs

We snuck into Ridge-Lytton Springs right before closing time; which ended up being a coup, as they were pouring the Monte Bello Cabernet. Lytton Springs is right on the eastern edge of Dry Creek Valley heading back into Healdsburg. It's an eco-friendly winery and tasting room with 125 year old Zinfandel vines greeting you as you head inside. Our pourer was friendly and engaging; I have to give alot of credit to her as we were tasting at the end of the day.



The Wines-

-2006 Monte Bello Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains- Unfiltered. Mineral, creme fraiche, and lemon grass with honeysuckle, pear, and butterscotch with balanced acidity and a nice finish---very good to excellent---$60.

-2006 Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains- 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Natural yeasts. Brambly fruit- boysenberry and red berries, leather and pencil lead- classically styled with ample red fruit and spice. Dusty and firm with herbs and spice, finishing long and elegant---excellent to stellar---$145.

-2006 Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley- 80% Zinfandel, 16% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignane. Cherry pie, raspberry tort, vanilla with blue & red berries, vanilla, and light spices. Spicy, firm and long---very good---$35.

-2006 Geyserville, Sonoma County- 70% Zinfandel, 18% Carignane, 10% Petite Sirah, 2% Mataro. Red ruby and less dense. Tight nose with herbal black fruit. Black fruit with touches of strawberry & plums with supple tannins of black pepper and lengthy finish---very good---$35.

-2006 Old School Zinfandel, Alexander Valley- Black currant, vanilla, with ample black fruits and clove spice- silky and long---very good to excellent---$???.

-2006 Ponzo Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Natural fermentation and aged 12 months in American oak. Musky, mushroom, and red fruit with plums, pepper, and lush tannins---very good---$28.

-2007 Nervo Zinfandel, Alexander Valley- Candied red fruit and peppery black fruit with firm tannins and cinnamon notes on the finish---very good---$???.

-2006 Caboose Zinfandel, Nervo Vineyard, Sonoma County- Natural fermentation, 15 months in American oak. Medicinal, tar, and floral notes with black & red fruit, clove & cinnamon. Silky with spicy tannins finishing long---excellent---$28.

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Wow- what a crazy day of wine tasting and touring. We went from coastal mountains along the Sonoma Coast to the pastoral Dry Creek Valley, tasting a crazy variety of wines. We grabbed a beer at the Dry Creek Valley General Store, where we met the owner- Gina Gallo. Dinner was at Bistro Ralph in Healdsburg. A pretty amazing cheese plate precluded the best Caesar salad I've ever eaten. A pretty decadent lamb meatloaf topped pretty much did me in from there...

Full photos from day 2. Next- back to Napa Valley-Storybook Mountain, Keenan, and Seavey.