Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Early April 2016

Looking west toward the village

On the flipside of a bright and sunny early April day in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, were the whipping cold Mistral winds. The vines were just on the other side of bud break, and the heat of the Mediterranean summer was far in the distance. My wife Melissa and my wine-touring friends Justin and Jon set off for the last of our wine adventures during our early spring visit to France. This day would feature visits to venerable producers and top vineyard sites in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, along with sensational wines.

The highlights started early, at Domaine-du-Pegaü. Pegaü is a top-echelon producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, along with other wines of the Southern Rhône. The proprietors are the Feraud family, whose history of agriculture in the area dates back centuries, and with winemaking as far back as 1733. It was 1987 however that Laurence Feraud and her father Paul Feraud created the domain in its modern form.

Today, they own 21 hectares in the AOC, spread across several different terroirs. La Crau to the east of the village- planted to 13 different varieties, with 100+ year old vines planted on sandy & pebbly soils. The Bédarrides area- 75 year-old Grenache vines grown in pebbly soil, with south and southeast exposures. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape village area- parcels growing Grenache and Mourvedre in red earth and pebbly soil, and parcels growing Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Roussanne in clay soils. The Pignan in the north of the appellation- low yielding Grenache and Mourvedre planted on a hilltop near Chateau Rayas, protected from Le Mistral winds by the surrounding forest, and with soils similar to La Crau. And Les Bosquets- near the domaine, 80 year-old vines planted to Grenache, Cinsault, Counoise and others, on hillsides sheltered from Le Mistral and overlooking the Rhône. Pegaü also bottles Côtes-du-Rhône and Côtes-du-Rhône Villages under the Chateau Pegaü label from grapes grown outside of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC.

In the barrel room at Pegaü

In the cellar, the wines are made in a very traditional manner, particularly the reds. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s are fermented using whole bunches, in concrete, and with no added yeast or sulfur. Aging takes place primarily in 100-year-old Russian oak casks, with extended elevage and stricter selection of grapes on the top bottlings. The Cuvée Réservée receives 18-24 months of aging, and is typically around 80% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, with the other 10% coming from the remaining varieties allowed in the appellation. The Cuvée Laurence comes from a single cask that is selected for extended aging, usually an additional 2 years longer than the 18-24 months that the Cuvée Réservée receives. The Cuvée de Capo is the domain’s most exclusive bottling, and is the strictest vineyard and tank selection, made only the top vintages, and is matured for 27 months. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blancs are fermented in concrete egg, typically 60% Clairette, 20% Grenache Blanc, 10% Roussanne and 10% Bourboulenc, aged without malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks.

Concrete Egg fermenter at Pegaü

Concrete fermenter at Pegaü

Our tasting included a range of Château Pegaü wines, highlighted by the 2015 Château Pegaü Côtes du Rhône Blanc Cuvée Lone (Clairette, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc & Ugni Blanc) showing well-balanced citrus zest, honeysuckle flowers, minerality and white pepper; the 2015 Château Pegaü Vin de France Pink Pegaü Rosé (100% Cinsault) showing white flowers, minerality, zesty berry fruit and peppery spice; and the 2013 Château Pegaü Côtes du Rhône Villages Cuveé Setier (Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre) showing black fruit, spice and florals with nice richness and depth. 

Two Domaine Du Pegaü wines were shown. The 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Reservée wowed with aromas of spices, garrigue, cassis, cherry & violets; with great concentration and intensity on the palate, balanced with silky elegance; finishing with thick, firm and silky tannins and hints of mineral notes. The 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence was even more expressive- showing minerality, garrigue, meat, leather, tobacco, anise and blackberry; concentrated, silky and complex on the palate with silky tannins and a huge finish. Two incredibly complex and profound wines.

The second stop, Domaine De La Janasse, is located in the village of Courthezon in the northwest of the Châteauneuf-Du-Pape appellation. The domain was founded in 1967 by Aimé Sabon, who took over his father’s vines upon returning from military service. Today, the wines are made by the second generation, Christophe and Isabelle Sabon.

Domaine De La Janasse grows each of the 13 permitted varietals of the appellation, including plots in La Crau. They prefer Grenache coming from the cooler, northern parts of the appellation, with rockier soils; Syrah and white varieties from sandy limestone soils with eastern exposures; and Mourvedre coming from clay and limestone soils covered with river rocks. Farming is free of herbicides and pesticides, and makes use of natural fertilizers.

French oak barrique aging for Mourvedre and Syrah at Janasse

Winemaking is more pragmatic than Pegaü. Grapes are sorted in the vineyard and again in the cellar. For the Châteauneuf-du-Pape red cuvees, wines are partially destemmed, the degree of which depends on the ripeness of the stems. The wines are cold-soaked, with a daily manual punch-down for gentle extraction of tannins. Grenache is matured in large French oak foudres to allow for a slower micro-oxygenation, while Syrah and Mourvedre are aged in smaller French oak barrels in order to soften tannins. Typical aging is 12-14 months. The white Châteauneuf-Du-Pape wines make use of mostly new barrel fermentation for Roussanne, and vat fermentation for Grenache Blanc and Clairette, and are bottled unfiltered. The Côtes-Du-Rhône and Côtes-Du-Rhône Villages range of wines are grown in Courthezon just outside of the appellation. Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Carignane are the primary reds; and Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Viognier and Roussanne are primary whites. The reds are made with less stem inclusion, with the Côtes-Du-Rhône wines being aged in concrete vats and the Côtes-Du-Rhône Villages wines being aged in foudre and barrel, much like the Châteauneuf-Du-Pape reds.

Grenache from La Crau aging in foudre at Janasse

Our visit included a cellar tour and a tasting of the full range of the domain’s wines. The Côtes-Du-Rhône reds impressed, particularly the richness and depth of the 2013 Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Terre d’Argile. The 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc was very impressive, showing expressive notes of clove, butterscotch, stone fruit and white flowers; with silky structure, layered complexity, and full length on the finish.

A trio of the domain’s 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds were shown, as were 2 recently bottled 2014’s. All were extremely solid- The two standouts being the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, showing aromas of brambly black fruit, mineral and fresh flowers; with bright red fruit on the palate and rich, silky layers of spice and minerality; along a rich and dense core and full finish. The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes showing greater complexity with aromas of sandalwood, fig, spice, flowers and cherry; leading to silky fig and cherry fruit on the palate, layered with spice and earth complexity; with silky tannins through a big and dense core, and a huge finish.

Les Tresquous terroir, looking southwest

Domaine La Barroche is located in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Barrot family’s history in the village dates back to 1703, with vineyard plots first being developed in the late 19^th Century. Christian Barrot further expanded the domain’s vineyard holdings in the 1970’s, focusing on new plots in different terroirs, while lowering yields and increasing quality. He sold wine produced from the plots in bulk to prestigious negociants in the Rhône. In the early 2000’s Christian’s children, Julien and Laetitia, were brought in as the domaine set out to bottle and sell its own wine. Today, Julien farms and makes the wine, and Laetitia runs the sales and communication.

First look at the concrete fermenters at Barroche

Inside the gate of the new winery facility, we were greeted by a gregarious and rugged fellow who turned out to be Julien. Julien exuded enthusiasm as he quickly showed us the inside of the ultra-modern gravity-flow winery and its new concrete tanks. He asked us how much time we had, and if we’d like to see the domain’s vineyard plots throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape. And with that, we were off in my rental car bouncing around gravel drives through the vineyards, with Julien behind the wheel.

Les Bosquet vineyard plots of Barroche

Les Bosquet terroir, looking toward the village

As we drove, Julien explained that he typically favors soils with less limestone in the topsoil, and more sand, clay and iron-rich sandstone, which to him expresses the purity he’s looking for in Grenache. He explained that he practices biodynamic farming, although he’s skeptical of some of the various rituals therein.

Terres Blanches plots of Barroche, looking east

At the various vineyard stops, Julien explained the variances in the soils, often times atypical of the given lieux-dit in which they are located. For instance, at the first stop in the section of the Les Bosquets area nearest to the village, the field blend of 100+ year old Grenache, Mourvedre, and Clairette vines is on less-rocky soil than further up the hill. Stopping in the Terres Blanches area up the slope north of the village, we saw Barrot’s Grenache vines growing on sandy soils surrounded by vineyards covered with river rocks.

Grand Pierre plots of Barroche, looking west

Grand Pierre plots of Barroche, looking north

At the crest of the Rayas slope, with Le Mistral winds whipping around us, we toured Barrot’s plots in Grand Pierre. Soils here were sandy, with iron-rich red sandstone. From there, we circled north and east past Barrot’s plots in Cabrières looking west toward the Rhône, and then back to the village and the winery. While driving, Julien explained that while he could make very intellectually appealing and distinctive wines from individual plots, he preferred the wholeness and completeness of the wines he’s able to craft from the plots as a whole.

View of the tank room from the crush pad at Barroche

The barrel room below the tank room

As the winery is built into the side of the hill, we entered the tank room from the top level where the grapes are brought in, seeing the tops of the new concrete tanks, then descending two levels down into the barrel room for tasting. The production at La Barroche is solely red Châteauneuf-du-Pape cuvees. The grapes are fermented in concrete tanks, with destemming of underripe stalks, with gentle extended macerations. Grenache is aged in old oak casks, while Syrah and Mourvedre are aged in 600L French oak barrels, and Cinsault is aged in stainless steel tanks. Aging is approximately 18 months, and the wines are bottled unfiltered.

Cask samples of 2015 Grenache

Our tasting included 2015 Grenache from cask, including the blend for the 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pure (the domain’s predominately Grenache cuvee from its top vineyard sites)- which showed concentrated and complex notes of blackberry compote, fig, cracked pepper, flowers, minerals and spices- rich, spicy, dense and powerful on the palate, with creamy silky tannins and a huge finish. The 2015 Mourvedre and Syrah from barrel both showed huge concentration and depth.

Bottled wines tasted in included the 2014 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pure; a 2013, 2012, 2011 vertical of the domain’s standard Châteauneuf-du-Pape; and a 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Fiancée. The 2014 Pure showed beautiful primary raspberry and lavender notes, with garrigue, black tea and clove, along an elegant yet dense palate with great depth and length. The vertical of the domain’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape cuvee showed primary red fruit, minerality and flowers of 2013, sweet red fruit, spices and flowers of 2012, and a great balance of ripe red fruit, minerality, garrigue, spices and tobacco in 2011. All were richly layered with silky elegant tannins. It’s tough to pick a favorite of the three- but the complexity of the 2012 stood out- notes of fig paste, allspice berry, rose hips, raspberry, tea and lavender- with silky rich layers, great density & texture, thick silky tannins, and great length. The 2005 Fiancée is a Grenache and Syrah blend that Barrot is no longer producing. It showed nice complexity of red fruit and spices, with silky structure and some nice minerality on the palate- still very youthful. Overall, I thought Barrot’s wines displayed an impressive precision and purity of flavor, while capturing the earthy mineral and garrigue notes that are endearing in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 

It was a truly amazing day experiencing the terroir in Châteuneuf-Du-Pape. With that, it was farewell to the majestic Rhône Valley. 

Link to all wines tasted

Resources:

Excellent map of Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards area

Excellent basic Southern Rhône wine info courtesy of Wine Folly

Northern Rhône- early April, 2016

Another day along the Saône and Rhône corridor. This time moving south from Lyon and spending a day and a half seeing the grand vineyards of the Northern Rhône Valley. The early April Tuesday morning was cold and rainy, and getting out of Lyon was a bear, but we finally made it to Ampuis and the center of Côte-Rôtie.

Agnes Levet and Justin in La Chavaroche, in Côte-Brune

Our first destination was a storefront under-construction along the main drag through town, which houses Vignobles Levet (a.k.a. Domaine Bernard Levet). Inside was a small reception/tasting room, moving behind into a patchwork of rooms comprising the cellar, eventually leading below ground into the barrel room. Behind the winery was a short walk up onto the slopes of Côte-Brune in Côte Rôtie. We were greeted by Agnes Levet, the daughter of Bernard, who has taken the helm of the domain.

Agnes Levet explaining the granite soils of Côte-Brune in Côte-Rotie

Levet began in 1929, and Agnes is its fourth generation of vintners. They own just under 4 hectares of vineyards in Côte-Rôtie across 6 different plots, including old vines in Landonne and Chavaroche in Côte Brune, and their Moulin plot in Côte Blonde just below La Turque. 55% of their vines are 60 years or older. They primarily grow the Serine clone of Syrah. Farming is a mix of organic and traditional farming practices. All of the vineyard plots are either south, southeast or southwest in aspect. Soils in Côte Brune are darker and primarily granite and clay, whereas in Côte Blonde they become lighter due to higher amounts of sand and limestone, differentiating the two slopes in the styles of wines they produce.

Walking in La Chavaroche

Melissa in La Chavaroche

Levet is known for very traditionally-styled and long-lived Côte-Rôtie- dark and primal, with layers of complexity and sophistication. Fermentation uses whole-clusters, and wines are aged for two to three years starting in large oak casks, eventually racking down demi-muids and smaller French oak barrels, with minimal new oak. The wines are bottled lightly fined and unfiltered.

Biodynamically-farmed plots in Côte-Brune

The rain broke for a spell, and Agnes asked if we would be interested in seeing the vineyard. We walked into the Chavaroche vineyard, and Agnes explained their farming techniques during bud-break, as well as the soil differences in Côte Brune compared to Côte Blonde.

Concrete fermenters at Vignobles Levet

The barrel room at Levet

In the tasting room, we sampled a pair of 2013’s. The 2013 Amethyste is 100% Syrah coming from their various vineyard sites. It displays notes of mesquite smoke, dried violets & herbs, sous-bois and blackcurrant; with medium weight, elegance and brightness on the palate; and further depth of minerality and earth before finishing with polished tannins. The 2013 Les Peroline (labeled as La Chavaroche for import to the US) comes from 40 year-old vines in the Chavaroche vineyard. It shows notes of barbecued meats, flowers, blackberry remoulade and iron, with big density, complexity, and structure on the palate; finishing with fine tannins and primary black fruit & minerality. I loved this one… Definitely one for the cellar.

View of Ampuis from Côte-Brune

The duration of our visit with Levet shortened our tasting at Domaine Georges Vernay. Vernay is an esteemed producer of Condrieu, producing some of the most profound expressions of Viognier anywhere in the world. Christine Vernay, the third generation, makes the wines today. The domaine is credited helping to reinvigorate the Condrieu appellation, whose Viognier was nearly extinct just several decades ago.

The first of two wines tasted was the flagship Condrieu – 2014 Condrieu Coteau de Vernon. This comes from 2 hectares of south/southeast-facing terraced vineyards in the heart of the appellation, with vine age between 50 and 80 years, and farmed with organic methods. The wine is barrel fermented and aged 25% new French oak barrels on the lees with regular battonage. The wine showed nuanced and profound aromas of butterscotch, florals, orange zest and bright minerality. Huge and intense on the palate, lifted with brightness, great expression and balance. Definitely a ‘wow’ factor.

We also tasted their flagship Côte-Rôtie – 2013 Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge. It comes from 2 hectares in the south of the appellation within the ‘Maison Rouge’ plot, in the sandy granite soils of Côte Blonde. The wine is vinified de-stemmed and aged in 30% new French oak barrels. Almost the polar opposite of the Levet wines, this was sleek, stylized and done in a modern style. Showing nuanced aromas of smoke, meat, cassis and florals; with a silky & rich palate of cassis, tea, violets, white pepper and minerality. Dense, rich and polished. Very nice, but not quite as exotic as what I might look for in Côte-Rôtie.

In the cellars at Voge

The rain returned in Cornas, so our tour at Domaine AlainVoge was confined to the cellars. Extending back several generations, Alain Voge took the helm at his family domain in 1958, deciding to specialize in wine, then redeveloping vineyards in the Cornas and Saint-Peray appellation which had been dormant for decades prior. A top-echelon producer in Cornas today, Voge is operated by partner Alberic Mazoyer, who biodynamically farms 10+ hectares of Syrah and Marsanne in the Cornas, Saint-Joseph, and Saint-Peray appellations. The cellar is located in the center of the village, in a series of compact spaces- tightly packed fermentation tanks leading to a labyrinth of underground barrel rooms. A very workman-like space.

We met with Assistant Winemaker Lionel Fraisse, and tasted through the full range of Voge’s available 2014 & 2015 Saint-Péray whites, and 2013 Saint-Joseph and Cornas reds. The Marsanne whites come from granite and calcareous soils in Saint-Péray, with fermentation and aging on lees in tank or in cask, depending on the wine, with full malolactic conversion. They impress with their elegance. There is also a traditional-method sparking Saint Péray produced. The Syrah comes from decomposed granite soils along the steep hillsides in Cornas on the right bank of the Rhône, and also from the southern portion of Saint-Joseph, also on the right bank and near Cornas. Fermentation is temperature controlled in stainless steel, grapes are completely or partially destemmed, with daily pigeage and pump-over prior to pressing, and extended aging in French oak casks, with the percentage of new oak varying depending on the wine. Stylistically these are very brooding and complex wines, true to the nature of Cornas, but tempered just a bit in a way that makes them somewhat approachable young.

The 2014 Saint Péray bottlings showed a common thread of silky textures and subtle elegance, with both the 2014 Saint-Péray Terres Boisees and the 2014 Saint-Péray Fleur de Crussol standing out. The 2014 Fleur de Crussol showing layered expression and outstanding depth, highlighting notes of stone fruit, honeysuckle bloom, turned earth, baking spice and minerality, along a silky texture. The 2013 reds showed big structure with massive savory and mineral notes- smoked meats, iron, smoke; along with bright dark fruits. The 2013 Saint-Joseph Les Vinsonnes highlighted with nice complexity- iron, meat, spices, crushed stone & mulberry; adding bright primary fruit, flowers and mineral notes on the palate; closing with nice density and richness. The 2013 Cornas Vieilles Vignes, always a top wine from Voge, benefitted from receiving fruit normally bound to the Les Vieilles Fontaines (which wasn’t bottled in 2013). It showed aromas of mulberry, mesquite smoke, blueberry and iron; rich and full on the palate, adding floral and mineral highlights accenting cassis fruit, with savory dried herb and meat notes; finishing with polished structure and full depth, though still tightly-wound. This was such a solid lineup of wines from top to bottom.

Justin, Jon and I in Cornas

The next morning in Tain-l’Hermitage, a mix-up over another appointment left us wondering around the corner to Domaine Ferraton, where Stéphane took us in and showed outstanding hospitality with an impromptu cellar tour and tasting. Ferraton was founded in 1946 by Jean Orrens Ferraton, growing in vineyard holdings under his son Michel. In the late 1990’s, Michel Chapoutier became an investor, and the domain vineyards were later converted to organic and biodynamic farming. Today, Ferraton bottles domain wines from the Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, and Crozes-Hermitage, as well as a full line of negociant wines from appellations throughout the Northern and Southern Rhône.

Concrete fermenters at Ferraton

The barrel room at Ferraton

We tasted a full line of quality bottlings, highlighted by a pair of Hermitage wines. The 2012 Ferraton Hermitage Blanc Les Miaux is 100% Marsanne grown in the decomposed granite soils over clay and limestone subsoils. Barrel fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts, with aging of 10-12 months. It showed very nice complexity on the nose, with aromas of honey, flowers, melted stone and citrus zest; with full density and structure on the palate, and lots of layered savory & spice flavors, along with good depth. The 2011 Domaine Ferraton Ermitage Le Méal comes from 30 year-old vines in pebbly soil along the south facing hillside of the Méal. The Syrah grapes are destemmed, with fermentation in concrete with daily pump-overs and punch downs. Barrel aging is 14-18 months, with 30-50% new French oak barrels. The wine shows classic brooding and deep Hermitage Syrah- aromas of blood sausage, iron, violets, and black cherry; along with a silky and rich palate of black tea, olive, black fruits, meats and dark herbs; and huge structure.

Above Tournon overlooking Tain & The Hill of Hermitage

The sunny day in Tain & Tournon finished with a walk to the slopes across the Rhône above Tournon, passing along vineyards in the Saint-Joseph appellation. Then we took a short walk back across the river, and up onto the hill of Hermitage, for a farewell to the amazing wines and scenery of the Northern Rhône Valley.

Looking up at Le Meal in Hermitage

Looking up at La Chappelle in Hermitage

Click here for notes on all wines tasted.

Additional Resources:

Great overview of the Northern Rhône from Jancis Robinson.

James Molesworth discussing the Serine Clone of Syrah.

Another good overview of the Northern Rhone with map at Wine Folly.

An exciting and inexpensive white from the Southern Rhone

The southern Rhone Valley is a great place to find exciting wine at affordable prices. I tend to think of reds more than I do whites – and among wines like Côtes Du Rhône in the $10-$15 range, Vacqueyras in the $20-$30 range, and Gigondas and lower-priced Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the $30-$40 range – you can find wines with a sense of place, structural integrity, and bold expressive fruit that far out-drink their price points.

While reds lead the pack throughout the Rhone Valley, it’s also fun and easy to find excitement among the Rhone’s whites. My most recent find was a simple white blend, classified outside of France’s AOP classification as a Vin de France (AOP is the replacement for AOC, and Vin de France is the replacement for Vin de Table in the recent reforms of France’s wine classifications). The lower classification is merely because the wine includes 30% Sauvignon Blanc in its blend, a varietal not permitted in any of the Rhone AOP’s.

Coming from the Costières de Nîmes region in the south of the Southern Rhône Valley – the wine in question is produced in a partnership of Costières de Nîmes producer Michel Gassier, oenologist Philippe Cambie, and US importer Eric Solomon. The Michel Gassier 2011 Cercius Blanc is named for the Latin term for the mistral winds of Provence that sweep through the region, preserving freshness and acidity in the wines. It’s made from 70% Grenache Blanc and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, from 25 year-old vines grown in organically-farmed rocky soils. Fermentation and aging on lees takes place in cement tanks.

Think fresh and bright. The wine is light gold in color with notes of tangerine, grapefruit, rose hips and slate. Medium-bodied and rich on the palate with nice brightness augmented with subtle honeyed and spice depth. It finishes with nice balance throughout as well as lingering crisp fruit. Inviting and alluring on its own; it’s well rounded to pair with any number of foods. My vote would be seafood paella, with the brightness and minerality of the wine matching the rich spice and garlicky savory seafood. This is excellent overall and even better when you consider the $12.99 price point. It would also be a perfect wine by-the-glass in restaurants as well. 

There’s also a Cercius Côtes du Rhône red that’s a blend of Grenache and Syrah, also reasonably priced and fermented and aged in concrete – I’ll definitely pick that up if I come across it.

Southern Rhône- the ultimate cellar defender? and other stuff

Is there another wine region where you can drink as many $20 wines that are truly exciting as when delving into the Southern Rhône. This rhetorical question occurred to me again this weekend when I popped open a bottle of 2009 Domaine La Garrigue Vacqueyras.

Vacqueyras, located northeast of Chateauneuf du Pape and just south of Gigondas, can certainly be a sweet spot for bold full bodied reds- the '09 Domaine La Garrigue Vacqueyras is no exception. From 70 year old estate vines grown in clay and limestone soils, the wine is a blend of Grenache with Syrah, Mourvedre & Cinsault. It is imported by Eric Solomon Imports.

My notes- Popped and poured. Dense purple garnet color. Impressive bouquet of crushed rock, violet, earth, peppercorn and blackberry- very expressive. Palate shows medium weight and vivid layered flavors, consistent with the nose, that start a little tight on the front palate but come alive through the middle and finish. Spicy grainy tannins are firm and the finish is deep with nice length. Showing very well, but could get bombastic if the fruit opens up more on the front palate. Good candidate for short to medium term cellaring and a fantastic value at $20.


I'll rate it an "I really like!"

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In other news- here's a link to a recent blog post from Steve Heimoff commenting on the wine media and intelligentsia artificially trumping up a lower alcohol wine trend in California wines. Working on the sales end of the wine business at the street level- it seems to me like the reverse is true. Wine buyers and sommeliers, as well as consumers that I've run across, have been at the forefront of this alleged false trend for some time now. If anything the reverse is true and the broader wine media is just catching up.

It's an interesting read though, and the comments are entertaining as well. I've enjoyed Mr. Heimoff's books, reviews, articles and blogs over the years- sometimes for totally different reasons. He runs the spectrum from insightful to insane and from outsider to insider... you never really know where he's going to land.

Eric Solomon Imports tasting in Santa Barbara, and an homage to Richard Jennings

Richard Jennings is the most prolific taster in the wine blogosphere. It's not even close. On Cellartracker he's posted over 27,000 tasting notes- his closest competition is just north of 11,000. His blog, RJonwine.com, covers wine tasting events and other wine information with comprehensive detail. His tasting notes are short and succinct, but presented in a manner that gets to the heart of the wine. They give you a good idea of what the wine's all about, whether or not your tastes align with Mr. Jennings. 

When he covers a wine tasting event on his blog, he'll post notes on every wine poured with photos from every table or producer. I've read these accounts in wonderment. It seems like a Herculean effort putting these reports out as he does.

I've started to think about RJonwine.com when I find myself at a wine tasting. As I think about how I might want to write about an event, the Jennings blogs become the impossible benchmark to attain. I don't have the time, resources, work ethic, attention to detail, or the will to cover an event in that manner- as much as I might like to. And it blows my mind to think about how many wines that Jennings tastes as an amateur blogger, 

I think the essence of blogging on any subject is being willing to be comfortable in your niche, realizing you're just one voice among many, and that the many may be well ahead of you. Maybe from that tiny place in crowd a gap can be filled with unique perspective, if not the highest expertise.

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Before I got sidetracked thinking about Richard Jennings' tasting acumen and in-depth coverage of wine tastings, I was thinking about how to put together this piece on a recent Eric Solomon Imports tasting that I attended in Santa Barbara. At this late stage I'll just give the basic info- it was presented by The Winehound retail store this past Saturday Feb 25. It was held at the Soho Restaurant and Music Club and featured a broad selection of wines from Eric Solomon's Spanish and French Portfolio. I tasted 31 wines over the course of 2 hours. Overall it was excellent quality and interesting wines, many if not most of which were organic or biodynamically farmed and handled mininally in the cellar. I've set aside some of the wines to highlight- great ones (epic), excellent wines/values (smart), and wines that disappointed (oh well). 

 EPIC-

Ossian Blanco 2009 Old Vine Verdejo, Rueda- Slate, earth, spice and stone fruit bouquet. Fine and silky with added tropical and citrus and hints of spice. Aromatic and profound with a full finish. (rating- I love!) $49.99

L'Esprit de la Fontaine 2006, Languedoc- 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 25% Carignan. Wow- nose of meaty blueberry and white pepper along with perfumey cherry. Rich on the palate- notes of slate and blue fruit with peppery, meaty and savory depth. Brambly and wild feel yet fine and polished at the same time. Lengthy finish. (rating- I love!) $82.99

Aalto 2008 Ribera del Duero- Brooding bouquet with tobacco & leather, red & blue fruit, spice and earth. Full lush fruit on the palate with hints of sage and spice and cocoa. Super-polished with fine tannins and long savory and tea finishing notes. (rating- I love!) $59.99

Quinta Sardonia 2007 Sardon del Duero- Blend of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Cab Franc and Malbec. Meaty notes of the nose with cassis and bold dark fruit. More leathery meaty fruit on the palate with cracked pepper, sage and spice. Firm tannins and a full finish. (rating- I like+!) $67.99

Domaine de la Janasse 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes- Primarily Grenache and Mourvedré. Cracked pepper, candied red fruit and spice aromas. The fruit evens out on the palate still carrying spice. Impactful with a serious presence. Gamey feel with round tannins and full fruit on the finish. Looking for more flavor development. (rating- I like+!) $78.99

SMART-

Pazo de Senorans 2010 Albariño, Rias Baixas- Expansive aromas- everything from nectarine and guava, to mineral and floral, all the way to fine cheeses. Round feel with focused crisp highlights- opulently precise. Full finish. (rating- I like+!) $24.99

Roger Champault 2009 Sancerre Les Pierris- Rocky lime and lemon aromas; furthered with spice, floral, mineral, citrus and stone fruit flavors... a little bit of everything. Focused and lean but impactful. Full finish. (rating- I like+!) $18.99

Izadi 2006 Rioja Reserva- Earth, red cherry and spice; growing to cassis, leather, red berry and tea on the palate. Silky and polished spice on the finish. Good length. (rating- I like!) $20.99

Chateau Puech Haut 2010 Prestige Rouge, Languedoc- Grenache and Syrah. Licorice, mineral, red berry and pepper. Focused flavors on a mineral-driven palate. Firm tannins and medium finish. (rating- I like!) $21.99

Domaine La Garrigue 2009 Vacqueyras- Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault. Gamey and meaty red/blue fruit. Pure fruit on the palate with red berry and mineral flavors with dried herb depth. Firm tannins and full finish. (rating- I like+!) $22.99

OH WELL-

Mas Alta 2005 La Bassetta Priorat- Lots of candied, jammy red fruit and spice. Out of balance. Full finish. $42.99

Espelt 2009 Garnacha Old Vine, Emporda- Chocolate, espresso and licorice with jammy red fruit and pepper. Out of balance. Inexpensive, but similarly priced and more well rounded Monastrells were available in comparison. $11.99.

Gramona 2008 Cava Gran Cuvee- Nice aromas- butterscotch, brioche and stone fruit. Goes totally austere on the palate with tart fruit and minerality. Finishes clean. I wanted to love this, but it was too cold (figuratively) and angular. $20.99

Also of interest- Two dry sherries were poured from Equipos Navasos (NV La Bote De Fino, Jerez- $47.99; and NV La Bote De Manzanilla, Jerez- $67.99). I don't consider myself able to properly evaluate fine sherry, but I did note that the Fino was full of nutty-almond and briny notes with a rich silky texture. The Manzanilla was fuller and richer on the bouquet, with lightly candied and nutty hints of fruit. The palate showed dried fruit and almond with notes of brine, and was very polished in structure.

Overall the tasting was a great trip throughout Spain and the South of France. My favorite regions on this day were Rhône, Languedoc, Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Cheers!

Wine Reviews

Arizona Stronghold Vineyard2010 Tazi, Cochise County AZ

Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Good acid balance. Nice smoothness to the mouth feel. Tropical, mineral, and straw notes throughout- perhaps accented with a little floral accent. Medium finish. Very solid. $18 (I like!)

Native9 2008 Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley

Dark plum and cola profile with a brambly rhubarb note. Straight-forward with these notes from the bouquet through the palate. Very fruit forward. A mineral note, almost astringent, kicks in on the finish along with a stark acidity that almost overpowers the tannins. $64

Labouré-Roi 2007 Nuits St.Georges Let Hautes Tours

Popped and poured, opened up with air. Ruby color with a fair degree of clarity. Fresh herbs, heather, rocky mineral and red raspberry fill the bouquet. Light and elegant with opulent red berry, river rock and hints of savory spice. Fine smooth tannins and an abrupt finish. Palm Bay Importers- +/- $32 (I like!)

Clos Saint-Michel 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Tea, red fruit, mineral, blueberry & cassis- accented with some ashy and gamey character. Soft and light, gliding with smooth tannins and a medium finish. Saranty Imports/Total Wine. $29.99

Sequoia Grove 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Expressive aromas- cassis, leather, black currant, tobacco. Ripe and open fruit on the palate with balance and some elegance- blackberry and currant with notes of stone, anise and espresso. Round and smooth on the palate with fine tannins. Full finish with fruit, mineral and eucalyptus notes. Very nice. $35 (I like+!)

Cellars Fuente 2004 Priorat Finca El Puig

Popped and poured. Still deep and rich in color- just a slight clarity. I get a lot of blueberry and mineral on this wine- both on the bouquet and on the palate. A little cassis on the bouquet as well. Pure open fruit on the palate with that rocky minerality. Secondary floral and herb notes- maybe a little black pepper. Medium body with flashes of silk and tea in the feel. Open tannins- opulent but balanced overall. Juicy finish- full but a little short. Drinking nicely. Palm Bay Importers- $36 (I like!)

Biodynamic French Trio

I visited The Winehound in Santa Barbara looking for a good Languedoc Red under $20. I left with three recommendations- each under $20, from a different region and each produced from biodynamically grown grapes.

2010 Domaine de la Louvetrie (Landron & Fils) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sue Lie
The first label of famed Muscadet producer Jo Landron. Landron's wines are farmed biodynamically, hand plowed and hand harvested. Fermentations begin naturally. The Domaine de la Louvetrie is a blend from several sites and diverse mineral-laden soils.

Tasting notes- Rocky, floral and sharp lime notes through the bouquet. Tangy acid and brine greet the palate and then washes away through a wave of citrus. Sharp but balanced with broadening lingering fruit on the finish. (I really like!).

Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine is not a wine that I drink everyday, so when I decide to pick one up I want it to be special. This definitely fit the bill. Excellent all the way around, and at $15.99 I thought it was a great buy. Sadly I couldn't make an oyster pairing work, but a caprese sandwich filled in quite nicely.

2010 Marie-Pierre Plumet Côtes du Rhône La Cabotte Colline
Grenache and Syrah. From clay and limestone soils in the Uchaux district in the Côtes du Rhône. Farmed biodynamically and aged in vats.

Tasting notes- Blackberry, bread dough and cracked pepper on the bouquet with plenty of black cherry and dried herb on the bouquet. Red fruit and mineral emerge with air and food. Medium body, chalky grainy tannins and a savory medium finish (I like!).

Another good recommendation- outperforming its price point of 11.99.

2010 Borie La Vitarèle Saint-Chinian Les Terres Blanches 
Grenache and Syrah. This is from the Saint-Chinian AOC in the Languedoc. Borie La Vitarèle's estate is on limestone, clay and gravel soils. The wines are biodynamically farmed, de-stemmed, foot crushed and fermented with natural yeasts. The Les Terres Blanches spends a year in barrel and a year in tank with lees disturbance.

Tasting notes- Garrigue, wild oats, rocks, violets and blueberry bouquet. It picks up a hint of dark chocolate on the palate to go along with its savory fruit. Nice focus of flavors with a bit of silkiness to the feel. Fine grainy tannins a finish of mineral fruit. (I like+!)

I really like the depth and breadth of this wine for the price (17.99). Nice focused flavors- a great value. I'll look for more Languedoc reds like this.