Q&A with Joon Lim, Atlanta's Top Sommelier for 2011

Let’s face it: many of us out there still have the mental picture of the stuffy sommelier -- that authority of all things wine in a dark suit looking down their nose at us as we struggle to order wine when we dine out. In reality it’s an outdated stereotype, but I’m surprised by how many of my non-oenophile friends still have this perception.

If there’s a movement afoot to change the perception, young sommeliers like Joon Lim are at the forefront. Joon’s story is as interesting as it is dynamic. He transformed his passion for wine into professional achievement as he attained CSW certification and rose all the way to Level 3 (Advanced) certification by the Court of Master Sommeliers in the span of just four years. In addition to his most recent Advanced Sommelier certification, Joon has recently won Taste of Atlanta’s Best Sommelier Competition. Joon’s restaurant career has rapidly moved him from Park Café in Duluth, GA to his recent rise to Beverage Manager at one of Atlanta’s top restaurants, Rathbun’s. On top of it all, Joon earnestly shares his knowledge and passion for wine with enthusiasm and humility.

Matt- Tell me about your background before wine? How long have you been studying and how were you first drawn to wine?

Joon- I was a college student also working full time at a local Starbucks coffee store. College wasn't working out too well for me so I seriously considered a career with Starbucks. It didn't turn out to be anything fulfilling, but I loved coffee, and found myself complacent. Just as I was feeling comfortable, I was invited to a wine tasting.  Wine was an intimidating subject. There was so much prestige and mystery that it made me more curious. I saw people in their suits, swirling, sniffing, and tasting. They were able to tell where it was from and what soil it was grown in. I knew that's what I wanted to do for a living. So I picked up my first book, Wine For Dummies when I was 23.  Since then, I've been buying wine books like they’re crack.  :)

Matt- As you advanced in your wine studies, what made you decide to pursue your career as a sommelier at Rathbun’s?

Joon- I'm dumbfounded as to how I advanced so quickly. I come from a non-restaurant background with limited experience. When our owners Cliff Bramble and Kevin Rathbun approached me when I was serving at the 'Steakhouse', I told them that I wasn't much of an executive. My natural personality is to be shy and reserved and very passive. I still have no idea why they promoted me.

Matt- How did you incorporate food and cuisine into your studies?

Joon- Coming from the restaurant industry, it wasn't too difficult to do. I was fortunate to work with some great chefs. One of the first chefs I worked with was classically trained in French cuisine. French cuisine taught me a great deal about flavor building and putting flavors together. It forced me to think about why certain flavors go together.  Take for example, peanut butter and jelly. I can't explain to you scientifically why they're perfect together. But I can learn some principles from that combination- Peanut butter is creamy and jelly is jammy. If that's the case, could be that a creamy risotto can also pair nicely with a jammy zinfandel?

Matt- What were the early wines that inspired you? How have your tastes changed?

Joon- The first bottle of wine I ever bought was a Dolcetto.  That was because Wine For Dummies told me it was an easy wine to get to know.  I found it to be delicious.  Then, I moved on to bigger, more tannic wines and that's all I wanted.  I craved more spice, more heat, and more fruit.  It was that way for a number of years.  Then recently, I've been craving more elegant and silky wines, like Domaine Dujac and Armand Rousseau.  These days, I'm drinking Sonoma and Russian River Valley pinots because they soothe the palate.  It's all about texture for me these days.

Matt- What did you do to prepare for the various levels of Sommelier certification to ensure your success?

Joon- I ask myself the same thing.  At the advanced level 3, the world is fair game, so where does one start?  I made 3000 flash cards, filled up 5 spiral note books, read books of biblical thickness.  You just try to do everything you can.

Matt- How did you become involved in Taste of Atlanta’s Best Sommelier competition?

Joon- I almost ended up not competing.  I wasn't sure of myself.  However, the other sommeliers told me to compete because they wanted to kick my butt.  I decided to stand up for myself and compete.  I prayed to God that I was up against goliaths, and that he had to help me just as he did with David.  :)

Matt- What is the most difficult wine to identify in competition?

Joon- Identifying wine becomes more difficult if you have two wines side by side that are similar.  I have the most trouble distinguishing Brunello and Barolo.  Both are thin skinned, tannic, have sour cherry notes and rose petal-like notes.  You really have to look for that whisper of tar to know which one is the Barolo.

Matt- Are you planning to pursue becoming a Master Sommelier?

Joon- Yes I do plan on becoming a master sommelier.  :)

Matt- What are some characteristics that make for a quality wine list? What are your goals in developing the wine program at Rathbun’s?

Joon- I think sommeliers need energy.  It's so easy to get tired and complacent especially with all the managerial duties that have to be dealt with.  We work very long hours; deal with pressure from servers, guests, and owners.  It's easy to burn out and lose inspiration. So a quality wine program starts with an inspired sommelier.  I'm willing to do what's never been done before in the history of our restaurant.  Example, I have brought in Dom Ruinart and am featuring it for $39 a glass.  I want to push the envelope and show what Atlanta is capable of.  There are a handful of us who are committed to taking Atlanta to the next level.  We are the few.  The beverage program at Rathbun's will feature a half bottle selection, a craft beer menu, and more emphasis on the classic styles.  Right now, it is about 95% new world (American).  I will also be rolling out a new cocktail program early next year.

Matt- What do you like in a retail wine program?

Joon- I believe sommeliers have a key role to play in the retail realm.  I like stores that hire knowledgeable people who don't lie. Whether you're a sommelier working the floor of a restaurant or a retail wine shop, you're still trying to help the guest make the proper wine selection.  There's an underlying notion among retail owners that stocking clerks are able to answer questions that a customer might have about a particular wine.  They really need to invest in a team of sommeliers (depending on the size of the store of course) that can not only help customers, but also train the staff.  A couple of my favorite stores are Total Wine and the BeverageSuperstore in Suwanee.  Even as a professional sommelier, I depend on experts in the respective stores to help me navigate.  The diversity of ideas is incredible and I always learn something from them.

Matt- What are the key issues facing the wine industry? What concerns you?

Joon- Wine snobs.  :)  

In all seriousness, I worry about the accessibility of fine wine to the common person. Take for example the global demand for Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux. The prices have become prohibitive and I fear it's just a matter of time before we see the same thing happening to California cabernets.  Can you imagine Nickel and Nickel selling for $1200 a bottle?  Just like there was a real estate bubble, I believe there is a wine bubble. The prices are going to hit a ceiling and they will come crashing down as people learn of better alternatives to Grand Cru Bordeaux.  On the flip side, there are more outstanding values than ever before.

Matt- What are your favorite wine regions?

Joon- Napa Valley of course!  Finger Lakes, NY, Niagara on the Lake, Canada, Margaret River, and Bordeaux.