Say yes to Merlot.

I recently read a piece on Steve Heimoff’s blog about the current state of the Merlot grape on the domestic wine scene. It was a good read, in which Steve laid out 2010 Nielson statistics showing Merlot’s awareness among consumers at a consistently high level, even through the perceived decline in popularity over the last 8 years. The piece goes on to try to reconcile the stats with Merlot’s continued decline at the ultra-premium level.

To me the answer is simple. I think that the general wine consuming population, outside of the most educated consumer group, thinks of a wine like Merlot in terms of a brand rather than a grape. Merlot as a brand became identified more for what was sold on the low-end rather than the high-end, i.e. jammy and softly structured wine without much character. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, the brand-identification had nothing to do with Merlot’s status as a great grape, or with the great wines of the world made from Merlot. Developing wine drinkers started to see Merlot as passé, which clouded Merlot’s profile in the wine community. All of this came to head with Sideways, although I don't think the dialogue was written to decry Merlot as much as it was written to capture the growing sentiment of the time. It’s a similar story line to that of Australian Shiraz, the difference being the squeeze on Shiraz happened at the top-end as well as the bottom-end. At the same time consumers were seeing value brand critter-laden Shiraz as cheap and passé; there was a barrage of hugely rated Shiraz wines that just did not measure up. As a result, a similar malaise has happened with Shiraz. 

What makes it difficult for Merlot to now recover with the wine intelligentsia is that it has no champions or advocates. There’s no ZAP or Rhône Rangers for Merlot. There’s little review space in major publications for it. James Laube hardly even reviews Merlot in the pages of Wine Spectator- the Merlot reviews are normally passed on to others in the magazine. And while there are plenty of areas in California and Washington where Merlot shines, there’s not a Right Bank where it outperforms Cabernet Sauvignon. Cab is always there in forefront taking up the spotlight. 

So that’s my modest take on the continued issues that Merlot faces. I think great Merlot is divine. It can be a little more about red and blue fruit than Cabernet Sauvignon, while still having the darker fruit notes. It highlights subtly different savory notes than Cab. It can have great structure, but can be rounder and more welcoming. Two of my favorite Bordeaux varietal wines over the past few months have been Merlot-based wines. One was the 2008 Calluna “Aux Raynauds” Merlot, Chalk Hill which I wrote about in December. The most recent is the 2008 PepperBridge Merlot, Walla Walla.

The 08 Pepper Bridge Merlot is 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec and comes from the Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills Vineyards. Elevage is 17 months in 47% new French oak. Ironically enough, I opened this for a dinner of barbeque-grilled steak at the Hitching Post II in Buellton, CA. I later aerated further with a Vinturi.

The appearance was a dense and opaque garnet; with red cherry & cassis with hints of graphite, spice and cedar opening and developing on the bouquet. Backward but expressive on the palate with blue/blackberry & cherry notes and further dark chocolate, black olive & cedar. It drank with a regal silky feel, with fine, round & smooth tannins over a full lingering finish. Very enjoyable, but don't touch for 2-3 years- it should be a stunner. (rating- I love!)

Highly recommended Merlot from Pepper Bridge!