Thursday, September 13, 2012

The everyday luxury side of Bordeaux


All I really want out of an inexpensive bottle of Bordeaux is something to remind me of how great the bottles are that either a) I can’t afford, or b) I have but can’t open. So when I opened a bottle of 2006 Château Listran from the Médoc, I hoped for just a little reminder of something special.

2006 Château Listran, Médoc

This is a wine that has some availability in the US. It was formerly imported by Palm Bay, and Winesearcher shows some amount remaining at retail between $16 and $19.

Classified as Cru Bourgeois, the estate is located in the lower elevation Médoc AOC north of the four famous communes of the left bank. They grow primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot along with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in gravelly sedimentary soils from the Garonne River. With acreage under vine at the estate once as high as 875, a succession of owners have reduced the acreage under vine to as low as 55 acres today. Current production is approximately 200,000 bottles. 

The wine is vinified using traditional methods and is finished in tank, aging of 90% of the wines taking place in barrel (20% new) for 12 months. It is bottled unfiltered.

In the glass was a dense ruby color with emerging aromas of dried lavender and sandstone, along with cherry and raspberry fruit -- overall a really pretty ethereal elegance that was the highlight of the wine for me. The notes were consistent on the palate although not as striking, with the fruit still showing nicely. Medium bodied and angular in structure, it added hints of black olive and espresso through the mid palate before finishing with firm tannins. The flavor profile was very nice and it drank well overall, albeit with a short finish.

I opened it for simple steaks on the grill, and it worked very well as a dinner companion before putting half the bottle away under The Wine Shield for two days. The revisit two days later day showed more of the oak and less of the vivacity from the fruit and florals, although it was still drinking well.

So was it what I was looking for? The beautiful bouquet and flavor highlights were easy to like and served as a reminder of greater things. Another reminder was the value of this price point in Bordeaux. If not this wine again, I’ll ask for a recommendation from my local wine shop. There’s plenty out there.

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