Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Mercurey- a more casual Burgundy

Burgundy doesn't always have to be so complicated, or expensive. Faiveley's 2009 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos Des Myglands comes from the Mercurey commune within the Côte Chalonnaise subregion. While containing 1er Cru vineyards, this is much more modest territory for Pinot Noir compared to the Côte De Beaune and the Côte De Nuits to the north. 

Domaine Faiveley's Clos Des Myglands is a 1er (or Premier) Cru monopole (single estate vineyard), with clay and limestone soils and vines ranging from 21 to 50 years old. The Pinot Noir is pressed on site in Mercurey, and is then brought to Faiveley's production center to the north in Nuits-St-Georges for aging in fine grained French oak barrels for 14 to 16 months. 

The resulting 2009 is light and fresh with nice depth and elegance. There's bright and pretty raspberry and floral notes with hints of earth and heather. Lithe and silky, but with good lift through the finish. I found this on the wine list along the Florida Gulf Coast in Apalachicola at the Owl Café- a nice selection and value in the mid $50's. It was delicate and bright enough to seriously compliment both grouper and amberjack entrées at my table. The retail price is typically in the low to mid $30's. 

This is a wine good enough to give a sense of fine Burgundy, while inexpensive and with enough availability to be accessible. Faiveley produces wines from Grand Cru and 1er Cru vineyards throughout Burgundy, but their Mercurey wines really fill a nice niche. It's a great way to enjoy Burgundy on a more casual level.


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