DAY 2- Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley (part 1)

Friday April 23, 2010

Hirsch Vineyards

The drive up to Hirsch was quite amazing. It took us through the morning fog of the Russian River Valley, up through Monte Rio, and along the Russian River to Highway 1. Following the rugged Sonoma coastline for a spell and then up into the coastal mountains, we finally found ourselves at the Hirsch Vineyards. But not before mile after mountain mile of one-lane road, hairpin curves, and even driving through backyards- ruins of crashed cars notwithstanding. It's a great way to bring the term "Far Sonoma Coast" to life.

Justin and Jon getting the vineyard tour

Upon arrival we were greeted by our hostess, Tess. We took a stroll around the vineyards, starting in the original OVY vineyard blocks- originally planted to Pinot Noir and Riesling back in 1980 before eventually being converted to all Pinot Noir. From there we talked about some of the viticultural practices of Hirsch and viewed the expanse of vineyards spread across hilltops off in the distance- with the Pacific Ocean in the horizon. Hirsch is only 3 miles from the coast, with the San Andreas fault lying between it and the ocean.

Back at the winery, we toured the open-top fermenters and the barrel room, as we were joined by winemaker Ross Cobb. Ross was great, entertaining my friend Justin's questions about his approach to natural fermentation, and showing us the 14 gallon glass demijohns in which his Chardonnay is partially fermented. Finally, we headed into the office to taste a couple of wines they had lying around. Thanks to Tess for setting everything up, and to both Tess and Ross for being so hospitable. This was a great stop, a fascinating departure from the rest of the wine trail circuit. My only regret is not allowing more time before the second appointment of the day. Our 10:00 appointment was followed by a 1:00 back in the Russian River Valley- an hour and fifteen minute drive back. We had to hustle to get back- bottoming out on a random speed hump coming down the mountain and almost nailing a sheep!

Justin and Ross Cobb talking about yeast

The Wine-
-2008 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast- Partial oak, glass, and stainless steel fermentation. Wild yeast fermentation. Full malo. Unfiltered. Neutral oak aging. Earthy nose with pungent notes of aged cheeses and bright apple. Earthy on the palate with bright fruit and mineral balance. Good acid and a long finish---excellent---$50.

-2007 San Andreas Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- A ruby color with good clarity. Gamey, cherry, and forest floor notes initiate velvety strawberry and cherry fruit soaked in silky tannins. Nice earthy fruit finish---excellent---I could see this further developing the depth of flavors with a few years time---$60.

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Merry Edwards Winery

The tasting at Merry Edwards was definitely structured and seminar-like. It's more of a pitch on the wines than a chance for dialogue. The winery itself is more of a modern working winery facility than a hospitality center. The tastings are put on at conference tables off of the office area. The grounds are really pretty though, with beds of flowers and the Coopersmith Vineyard surrounding the winery. What I liked about the tasting was having a map of the Russian River Valley in front of us with the vineyard locations marked. This was a great tool while tasting through the single vineyard Pinot Noirs. The Pinots were all nice and lush and rich- very prototypical Russian River Valley. Most were with silken red fruit and more spice than earth. For my taste, they lacked just a little bit of that extra depth that might have taken them above and beyond- but very nice all the same. The Sauvignon Blanc was outstanding.

The Wines-

-2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Black cherry & currants with a slight earthiness. Dusty tannins with pepper and baking spice on the finish---very good---$42.

-2007 Tobias Glen Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- A blend of Dijon clones. Lighter in color. Generous aromas of red cherry, mushroom, minerals with red cherry and strawberry fruit with white pepper on the palate. Lighter peppery tannins with a little more earth than spice on the finish---very good to excellent---$54.

-2007 Flax Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- From Pommard clones. Darker and more dense. Cherry cola and herbal notes with raspberry and light spice. A little loose on the finish---good---$54.

-2007 Meredeth Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Darker with density. Baking spice and cherry with raspberry, dried herbs, and strawberry. Dried herb-laced tannins with additional berry notes on the finish---very good to excellent---$54.

-2007 Klopp Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- A little lighter color and appearance than the Flax or the Meredeth. Generous red cherry, cola, and pepper with earth and mushroom notes. Silky tannins with a finish of oak and spice---very good to excellent---$58.

-2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley- Barrel fermented in 18% new French oak. Straw-gold. Aromatic with slight vegetal notes and a lot of tropical fruit. Creamy yet crisp tropical fruit flavors- pineapple and lime- with a great finish---excellent---$30.

Next, more notes on Day 2. Click the link for photos of Day 2 in Sonoma County.