Day 4- Sonoma- Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley

Sunday 4/25/2010
Arnot-Roberts Winery

Sunday had us back in the Russian River Valley, with 4 stops in its different regions before heading up to Alexander Valley. The first stop was in Forestville at Arnot-Roberts, a winery founded in 2001 by longtime friends Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts. Both have spent their lifetime around winemaking in Napa Valley; Nathan being a second generation cooper-making all of the new barrels that Arnot-Roberts uses, and Duncan formerly working at several big name Napa wineries. They operate out of an old winery warehouse building in Forestville, a small town in the west of the Russian River Valley. Their wines are produced using natural yeast fermentations, without fining or filtering, and with little sulfur added at the fermenter. For aging, new oak is used very judiciously and the barrels are toasted to work specifically for the vintage at hand.

Of note, Arnot-Roberts wines on balance are a point or more lower in alcohol by volume than most of their contemporary California wines. Very finessed and truly European in style. Produced in very small quantities, and sourced from distinctive vineyards in Sonoma, Napa, and Mendocino Counties. Arnot-Roberts fits a more appropriate definition of a cult wine in my opinion- down to earth guys making wines that fly in the face of current convention in California; and in an unassuming Bohemian-type warehouse space. I really dig the aesthetic of the packaging as well- embodied by the California Fuchsia painting by Nathan's grandmother, Margrit Biever Mondavi, that dons most of their bottles. It was a real treat to taste through this rare wine with Nathan, the time was much appreciated. Special thanks as well to Hardy Wallace and his Dirty South Wine blog for turning me on to these guys.

The Wines-

-2009 Green Island Vineyard Chardonnay, Napa Valley- Unfiltered, all neutral oak. Straw in color. Beautiful nose with aromas of brie, wet stone, lime, and caramel. Lemongrass flavors with lime, flint, honeycomb, and green apple. Chablis-esque. Tart acidity, nicely integrated and balanced---excellent---+/-$30.

-2008 Syrah, North Coast- Inky in appearance. Expressive feminine lavender, berries, and perfume aromas with lean and tart berry, mineral, and cured meat flavors- tightly structured with added berries on the finish---very good---$20-$30.

-2007 Bugay Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County- Bright purple in the glass. Floral notes of lavender, cherry, leather, and herbs with pepper, herbs, red cherries, & currants. Spicy tannins finishing with notes of vanilla---excellent---+/-$50??

-2007 Alder Springs Syrah, Mendocino County- Inky with notes of bacon, sweet red cherry, and boysenberry. Explosive on the palate with currants, cracked pepper, red raspberry, and cherry- accented by gamey notes and peppery tannins- structured with a racy acidity. Lingering finish---excellent---+/-$50.

-2007 Clajeax Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill- Bright purple. Spicy aromas-clove, nutmeg, cedar, with red and dark fruits. Flavors of lavender, black currents, cassis, leather, pencil lead- full throughout with gripping tannins and a lengthy finish dusted with traces of fruit. Impactful yet elegant-very much like a fine Bordeaux---excellent to stellar---+/-$75.

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Iron Horse Vineyards


In Green Valley near Forestville, Iron Horse was just a quick hop over from Arnot-Roberts. It served as a nice little diversion into sparkling wines. If you've never been to Iron Horse before, the tasting area is outdoors and the winery sits on top of a hill above the vineyards. There is a fantastic view east across Russian River Valley all the way to Mt. St. Helena. The pourers are cool and the vibe is laid back. We opted for the tasting with 5 of Iron Horse's méthode Champenoise sparking wines- all estate estate grown in the Green Valley appellation.

The Wines-

-2004 Blanc de Blancs- 100% Chardonnay aged 4+ years on the lees. Fine and persistent bead. Yeast, mineral, and light fruit notes open up into fresh citrus and apple- bright and crisp---very good to excellent---$38.

-2006 Wedding Cuvée- Blanc de Noirs- 86% Pinot Noir, 14% Chardonnay. Fine in the glass. Yeast, wet stone, light cherry, red apple, and chalk on the finish- nice and long---excellent---$38.

-2005 Classic Vintage Brut- 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Aged 3 years on lees. Fine beads. Nice brioche and lemon notes with rich mineral, citrus, and apple notes and finish---excellent---$33.

-2005 Russian Cuvée- 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Aged 3 years on lees. Still Brut, but slightly sweeter dosage. More red fruit- apple & cherry along with yeast notes. More fruit driven---good to very good---$33.

-2005 Brut Rosé- 81% Pinot Noir, 19% Chardonnay. Color comes from extraction rather than blending in still wine. Red cherry and strawberry with further darker notes predominate on the palate- the extraction is a little overpowering for my tastes---good---$50.



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Joseph Swan Vineyards




Moving back east into the heart of the Russian River Valley, we stopped to taste at Joseph Swan Vineyards. Joseph Swan was a pioneer of Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley. The winery is now owned by longtime winemaker Rod Berglund. They still specialize in small lots of unique and interesting single vineyard Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. The wines are rich and bold with full fruit and spice, yet elegant and very refined with less extraction and alcohol than many contemporaries. In their way they really embody the Russian River Valley. The tasting room is in the middle of the cellar- very low key and all about the wines.



The Wines-

-2006 Cuvée du Trois Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Blend, Partial whole clusters, wild and cultured yeasts, 10 months in French Burgundy barrels, unfined and unfiltered. Dirty brick red with clarity. Cinnamon and sour cherry with nice full flavors of cherry and allspice. Lots of spice and good acidity. Dusty grip with a nice finish---very good to excellent---$28.

-2006 Trenton View Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Same brick red color. Similar cinnamon and cherry notes with a greater earthiness. Mushrooms, spice, and red fruit with a nice, long grip---excellent---$35.

-2005 Mancini Ranch Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Medium ruby color. Mulled cider, cherry, and maple with spice rack and red fruit. Silky tannins and finish---very good to excellent---$26.

-2005 Zeigler Ranch Zinfandel, Russian River Valley- Similar color to the Mancini. Spices and mulled raspberry notes with more sweet, mulled red fruit on the palate. Silky with nice length---very good to excellent---$26.

-2006 Saralee Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Clear ruby. Earth, spice-box, and red fruit with cherry and cola flavors. Great acid profile with gripping tannins and lingering red fruit flavors---excellent---$36.

-2005 Trenton Station Syrah, Russian River Valley- Inky. Smokey and gamey with black fruit, herbs, and pepper. Pepper, olive, and spice notes all compliment the black fruit. Pure silk through the tannins---very good to excellent---$22.

-2006 Matthew's Station Tannat, Russian River Valley- Brown-ruby. Port-like with maple notes. Big black fruit with firm tannins---good to very good---$28.

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Thomas George Estates


Our last two tastings were set up the previous day during our chance meeting with Fritz Stuhlmuller. He was nice enough to hook us up at Thomas George Estate, as well as Stuhlmuller Vineyards. Thomas George Estates is a fairly new winery along Westside Road in the north of the Russian River Valley- the historic former site of Davis Bynum. Jeremy Baker, a Toronto restaurateur, purchased the winery and the estate vineyards in a family partnership in early 2008, and completely renovated the winery complex. They're developing three vineyards for an estate program- Baker Ridge-above the winery, Cresta Ridge-in Green Valley, and Starr Ridge-in northeast of the Russian River Valley appellation. The winemaker is Chris Russi, formerly of Christopher Creek Winery in Russian River Valley.

The winery and tasting room are modern and upscale-contemporary in feel, with beautifully appointed grounds. There's much attention to detail-with the feel of a facility tied to a touring business. The wines were consistently enjoyable- bold fruit, good balance, some finesse, integrated oak spice- solid and consistently Russian River Valley in style.

The Wines-

-2008 Sauvignon Musque, Dry Creek Valley- Apple, citrus, and mineral aromas with honeyed citrus notes, apple, and lime. Clean finish with lingering citrus fruit---very good---$25.

-2008 Windsor Oaks Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley- 100% Stainless steel. Lime, banana, and citrus- with lemon grass and apple flavors. Lively acidity that balances and mellows as it finishes---very good---$25.

-2008 Viognier, Sonoma Valley- Stainless steel fermented, no malo. Full expressive aromas of Rose petals, minerals,apple, honey, and peach- with honeyed floral and peach on the palate. Good acid and balance and with a nice finish---very good---$28.

-2008 Stuhlmuller Chardonnay, Inox, Alexander Valley- Unoaked with no malo. Straw, honey, lemon, and apple with mulled apple and lemon meringue. Nice balance-smooth and creamy on the palate---very good to excellent---$32.

-2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- 2-4 day cold soak, inoculated, 10 months in 33% new French oak. Honey, maple, raspberry, and floral aromas-inviting. A silky rush of fruit with herbal and floral notes. Balanced with acid and spicy oak tannins lacing the red fruit finish---very good to excellent---$38.

-2007 Allen Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley- Aging in 33% new French oak. Cedar on the nose with floral-violet, earth, and cherry notes. Red fruit with mushroom and mossy notes- rich and silky with a great finish---excellent---$55.

-2007 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- 5 day cold soak with 8-10 day fermentation w/thrice daily punch downs. Aged for 10 months in 33% new, 66% American oak. 5% Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah. Vanilla, black cherry, and boysenberry with cedar and black fruit. Peppery and spicy tannins with a long finish---excellent---$28.

-2008 Tre Torrente Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley- Aged in 25% new American oak- 16.5 abv. Vanilla, spice rack, lavender, and subtle fruit with port-like black fruit and more vanilla spice on the tannins and some pepper on a big finish---excellent---$33.

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Stuhlmuller Vineyards


Stuhlmuller Vineyards is located on the southern border of Alexander Valley- to the adjacent north of the Russian River Valley appellation, and to the adjacent northwest of Chalk Hill. Their riverside Chardonnay vineyards benefit from the cool morning fog of the Russian River. The Cabernet is grown on the slopes off the river. The Stuhlmuller's bought the vineyards in the 1980's and operated the property solely as vineyards until 2000, when their son Fritz achieved the dream of establishing an estate winery on the property. The style is rich and crisp, cool climate Chardonnay; and approach-ably bold and balanced Cabernet. It's a great little spot in the middle of the vineyards- in a tucked away part of Alexander Valley. The modest tasting room looks into the winery.


The Wines-

-2008 Estate Chardonnay, Alexander Valley- Fermented with indigenous yeast and aged sur lie in 10% new French oak for 8 months, 76% undergoing indigenous maloactic fermentation. Pear, Meyer lemon, and citrus with additional spice, apple, and caramel. Very balanced with lively acid-finishing with apple and spice---excellent---$24.

-2007 Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Alexander Valley- Fermented in barrel and aged for 14 months sur lie with 40% new French oak. Unfiltered. Indigenous yeast with full malo. Richer in color. Butterscotch, caramel, and candied apple with rich buttery apple flavors---very good---$38.

-2008 Estate Zinfandel, Alexander Valley- Not yet released. Boysenberry, cherry, caramel, spice, and blueberry- with more cherry and spice, full through the tannins and long finish---very good to excellent---$28.

-2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley- 18 months in 46% new French oak. Black cherry, spice, mint- light and floral- with red fruit, tobacco, and earthy spice. Firm with nice length---very good---$36.

-2006 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley- 3.5% Petite Verdot blended in. 18 months in 55% new French oak. Red raspberry, boysenberry, and mossy earth with black cherry, raspberry. Gliding and silky with with spicy tannins before finishing long with smooth flavors of baking spice---excellent---$65.

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With good luck and good planning, it was another awesome day of wine tasting. Alas, it was time to see my buddies Justin and Jon off to a red eye flight back to Atlanta. I had another day before my departure. We ended up in a Wal-Mart parking lot in Rohnert Park, with the two of them trying to pack up massive amounts of wine to fly back home with... they managed to make it work and get to their flight. There was one more day to follow for me, with multiple stops in Sonoma County and Carneros...

Click here for all Day 4 pictures-