Thursday, October 11, 2012

A couple of palate refreshers



Last month I wrote about the new Dirty & Rowdy Family Wines project, and profiled the 2011 Yountville Semillon. As a follow up I’d like to give a couple of impressions on their 2010 Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard Mourvedré.

The mourvedré is grown at high altitudes in the arid eastern mountains of Santa Barbara County (far away from the idyllic Santa Ynez Valley). Dirty and Rowdy produce it with whole cluster fermentation, native yeast, no temperature control during fermentation, and with light foot-treading. Aging takes place in neutral French oak.  

The result is a wine that runs contrary to how one might think of mourvedré. It’s dark in color, but with clarity that brings levity to the appearance. Think elegance rather than concentration – with aromas of lavender & herb, blue fruit and spice melding through into the palate. Vibrant floral fruit flavors accompany subtle underbrush and spice. With a silky and fine structure – it’s very pinot noir-like in feel; finishing with lingering peppery fruit. The acid is good and the wine has plenty of ripeness given a very modest ABV of 12.8%.

Not only is it an excellent wine, it’s interesting. Like the Semillon, it’s a definitely something different. I served it with baked salmon – the elegance, good acidity, and pure fragrant fruit flavors made it a great match.

It’s too late to buy this wine from the winery, so you might have to do some digging around for it. The retail is around $36.


Another winner is the 2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling (Kamptal, Austria). This wine is a Terry Theise selection, from an ancient estate undergoing qualitative changes and offering good overall values.

This dry riesling is grown in Kamptal’s sandstone, slate and gravel soils. It’s light gold in the glass; with an expressive slate, citrus zest and lilac nose. It has vibrancy on the palate with appealing front-palate acid. There’s ripe citrus with mineral and spice depth, along with hints of black pepper. The palate presence is there throughout with good weight. The finish is tangy and juicy - very enjoyable. The price is nice as well at around $18.

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