Another defense of California Syrah

Tasting some memorable Syrah at Piedrasassi

In a blog post last week, Steve Heimoff critiqued California Syrah in general as having quality issues due to a lagging price point. Flaws such as brettanomyces and searing acid were listed by Mr. Heimoff as stumbling blocks to the varietal being on the top echelon of California red wine. And it was theorized that due to its price point being behind top reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, producers are not making the necessary investments into production in order to make the best possible wines. In short, due to the market the grape doesn't meet its potential in the state.

It’s an interesting observation. Syrah’s greatest strength can sometimes be its greatest weakness. Its versatility as a grape – growing effectively in a variety of climates and locales – creates different profiles of wine that can be confusing to the average consumer. As a result, domestic wine tends to struggle in the three-tier system as distributors and retailers tend to gravitate toward things that roll quickly downhill. Throw on top the confusion people can easily run into about what is Shiraz? Petite Sirah?

Syrah seems to do best in the hands of producers selling directly to a consumer base that they can taste and educate on the wines. Or in the hands of sommeliers who can educate staff and guests on how versatile it can be with a menu; or how it expresses differently according to climate and terroir. Once the mysteries are unraveled, Syrah doesn't seem to have a problem attracting fans – both consumers as well as other wine critics.

A flaw such as brettanomyces that's listed in the blog post comes from uncleanliness in the cellar, and it doesn’t discriminate by varietal. Acidity is a virtue in California wine, not an problem. The best examples of California Syrah have a juicy acidity built around the fruit and depth. And is Syrah any more uneven in quality than Pinot or Cab in California? There are plenty of flabby overripe Pinots and Cabs, up to the highest price points.

The quality of Syrah in California is the least of its problems. There are plenty of great options in all price points and of varying styles. Value is excellent as well – I believe that one can consistently be amazed by California Syrah at price points well under those of top Cab and Pinot.

Here are four excellent California Syrah wines that I’ve had over the last few months that represent excellence, variety and value.

Tercero 2007 Thompson Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara County- From steep south-facing hillsides in the Los Alamos Valley of Santa Barbara County. 25% whole clusters. Lots going on. Bitter chocolate, cassis, cracked pepper, blueberry aromatics. All that and more pure fruit on the palate- blue and black. Smooth and round and polished- a pretty wine with fine balance. A full finish with peppery fine tannins. Excellent stuff. $30.

Cambria 2009 Tepusquet Vineyard Syrah, Santa Maria Valley- Loamy soils. Destemmed and cold soaked for 7 days. Pressed off at 2-3 degrees brix with fermentation finishing in barrel. Purple black opaque appearance. Primary notes of black olive, tomato skin, lavender and peppercorn. Ripe notes of cassis and black cherry forward on the palate. Round and polished with nice balance. Fine tannins and juicy acid on the finish, along with lingering fruit. Nice wine and very nice QPR. $22.

Piedrasassi 2009 Rimrock Vineyard Syrah, San Luis Obispo County- From cool-climate coastal southern San Luis Obispo County (around Nipomo). 100% whole cluster. New and neutral French oak. Aromatic savory fruit nose. Amazingly bright and vibrant with electric acid and pure fruit along with spice and long earthy depth. Firm structure and long finish. A great wine. $56.

Copain 2009 Les Voisins Syrah, Yorkville Highlands, Mendocino Co- Vineyard blend coming mostly from schist soils. Aging in neutral French oak. Plump aromatics of black pepper, black olive, marinating beef, violet and plum. Pure fruit and savory depth on the palate- seamlessly woven with fleshy feel and fine firm tannins and full finish. Deft balance. Excellent. $34.