THE SEARCH IS OVER! (for your next "interesting white")

Renegade Wines is one of the more unique wine stores that I've been to. It’s like the underground speakeasy of wine shops – unassumingly located in a warehouse complex in Santa Barbara. They offer a smart selection specializing primarily in California and French wines – as well as little idiosyncrasies like maybe or maybe not being there when you drop by (they’re sometimes off making local deliveries). But when you can get in the door, you’re sure to have an interesting conversation about wine and be turned on to some cool stuff.

Last week was their monthly Friday tasting, which featured Spanish, French and Italian wines from an area wine distributor. While there was a nice assortment of quality wines at attractive price points throughout the selection, what really stood out to me was a vibrant white from the Apulia (the heel) region of Southern Italy. This Apulia white comes from the Verdeca grape, a varietal native to Southern Italy that shows vibrant mineral and acid alongside its fruit despite it thriving in the warmer climates of Southern Italy.

While Apulia may not have the same caché that Italy’s regions to the north and northwest have, it does produce more wine than any other region in Italy. It is known more for its reds than whites – namely the juicy reds made from Primitivo and the more structured reds made from Negro Amaro. And while whites take a back seat to reds in almost every region of Italy (with the exception of Pinot Grigios from Alto-Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia), I believe that Italy is a treasure trove for those wines you often see listed as “interesting whites” on wine lists and in wine shops.

Masseria Li Veli’s 2011 Askos, Valle d’Itria IGT comes from eastern oriented 1000+ feet elevations in the Salento region of Apulia, between the Ionic and Adriatic Seas. The maritime location allows for a cooling evening influence tempering the hot dry summers. It comes from 32 year old vineyards and calcareous & sedimentary soils. Fermentation is on the skins and takes place in cold temperature-controlled tanks with malolactic fermentation inhibited.

The profile is bright, full and lively – with floral, honeyed and tropical aromas. There are vibrant tropical and citrus flavors on the palate. It’s crisp with strong mineral notes, and fully textured with a juicy finish. It has the vibrancy for mussels, but the weight for heavier seafood pasta. It doesn’t need food though – it has plenty of pure bright tropical fruit to sit and enjoy. The retail is about $25, and it certainly hits the mark as a white bringing something special and different to the table.

If you can’t find the Masseria Li Veli Askos, do a little research on some other good options from the Verdeca grape in Apulia. It’s an obscure Italian white worth seeking out.